1992 Oldsmobile Ninety Eight Regency - Page 5 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

With a 12 volt test light and an assistant, check for a signal to (S) terminal on starter solenoid.If ok, check all connections at starter for clean and tight.If still no crank, replace starter. If no signal to (S) terminal, suspect ignition or neutral saftey switch.

do they have any pipes or wires running to the shockers??

Sounds like the blower motor resistor to me check the fuses and the see if you have any power to the resistor

check the fusable link at the starter solenoid by pulling on each on, if it fill rubbery and streches then it is bad. Check for voltage at starter to ground also. If you have power to your starter then I would suspect a fusable link. also next circuit to test woud be from switch to smal terminal on solenoid. You should get power when key is in start position. Hope this helps you

yes its called a sending unit and it is in the tank

it could be antifreeze that was on the frame after changing the radiator the best way to tell is run car through a car that has the bottom wash or in a self wash and on... rinse... spray the area around radiator ...then check again later for antifreeze on ground

prbably looking at replacing the motor and gear assembly, gm had lots of problems due to slamming of the lid too hard

when you replace anti freeze you should check and tighten all clips etc as the anti freeze is thinner

Your complaint states that you see no air, is there fluid coming out of the left bleeder when bleeding the brakes? If you only see a few drops dribbling out, or nothing comes out at all...This can be a very difficult problem to solve. If this vehicle is a 1992 or later, it has rear antilock brakes, and if it is an ABS system, bleeding usually requires special equipment, and procedures. But there is something you can try. This takes quite a bit of time and patience, and a little bit of preparation. First you must realize that in the case of rear ABS, each rear brake has it's own fluid source, and plumbing from the ABS unit. If the obstruction is in the ABS unit none of the steps following will solve the problem, but you'll have to perform these steps to find out! DO NOT TOUCH THE BRAKE PEDAL UNTIL I INSTRUCT YOU TO HAVE AN ASSISTANT HELP YOU! USE PROPER PROTECTIVE EQUIPMENT! (Gloves, and eye protection, and protect your skin from exposure to brake fluid!) First we must know whether the flexible brake hose on the left rear is obstructed. The easiest way is to simply replace it, or if you don't want to start with a new part, you could disconnect it from the steel brake line that runs along the frame towards the rear of the car. (you don't have to remove it from the wheel cylinder first). Place a drip pan underneath the disconnected components. Now open the hood and remove the master cylinder cap. Make sure the brake fluid level is at the maximum height in the master cylinder. Now go back and look to see if there is any fluid leaking from the steel brake line. If there is not, then this is the point where patience is a virtue. There is air in the system all the way to the ABS unit. If the ABS unit is not obstructed or defective, fluid should flow by virtue of the force of gravity through the system and out of the end of the disconnected steel line, but if there is no fluid flow, it will take several minutes to possibly up to an hour and a half. If you have the patience to leave the car alone, maybe go to lunch, or to the auto parts store to shop for a while, gravity will do the bleeding for you. Once fluid begins to leak from the line, reconnect the brake hose and open the bleeder. Allow several more minutes for the wheel cylinder to fill and fluid to bleed out of the bleeder, then close the bleeder. Now do a complete bleed procedure using an assistant to pump the brakes while you finish bleeding any remaining residual air out. If you didn't get fluid from the bleeder, after you reconnected the hose, and after you waited long enough for the wheel cylinder to fill, then the brake hose is obstructed, and you will need a replacement brake hose. Once you are sure there is fluid flow, and no obstructions between the bleeder and the ABS unit, then you shouldbe able to obtain adequate pressure. If you can not get pressure, or fluid flow, you probably need to replace the ABS unit. There are additional procedures for ABS unit bleeding, but again, special equipment is required, so professional service is recommended.

The compressor you refer to is the air suspension compressor. It provides air to adjust the ride height of the vehicle. If you will notice by looking underneath the rear of the vehicle you will notice air adjustable rear shocks, or struts. They have plastic tubing plumbed to the compressor under the hood. There is a ride height sensor for the rear of the vehicle attached from the chasis to the rear differential. Whenever the height of the rear of the car is below the threshold setting of the sensor, the system activates a relay and turns on the compressor to raise the rear of the vehicle above the minimum height specified by the manufacturer. As the vehicle ages the air envelopes of the struts loses structural integrity and seepage, or leakage develops. Some depletion of air is normal, but the compressor power supply is independent of the key position, so the compressor can run, and will run anytime the height falls below the minimum. If the car sets unattended for several days, (or weeks) the compressor can run the battery down while maintaining the minimum height. If the system leaks too much air the compressor can burn-out trying to replenish the system. If you notice the compressor runing for an extended period of time, or running too frequently you should have the system checked for the source of the leakage. (Or you can do it yourself with soapy water and a spray bottle by soaking the air bellows on the shocks or struts, and all the lines and fittings from the shocks to the compressor) If you intend to work underneath a vehicle, service stands are mandatory! DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES ATTEMPT UNDER VEHICLE SERVICE WITHOUT PROPER SERVICE STANDS IN PLACE AND STABILITY VERIFIED WITH APPROPRIATE FORCE TO PROVE THE VEHICLE CANNOT BE KNOCKED-OFF THE SERVICE STANDS!

Your master cyl. may not be sending the fluid to the brake system like it should.

It is a mute point because you can't do this yourself. Your system has air in it plus moisture. All that need sucking out with a refrigerant gas recovery machine to create a very strong vacuum, then the system is checked for leaks. Only then is the refrigerant gas installed by weight. Freon is the brand name for a gas that is no longer used. There is a sticker in the engine bay that tells you the weight of gas and the amount of oil. This explains, take it to a shop that does AC. https://www.fixya.com/cars/r29878326-recharging_vehicle_air_conditioner ..

The blower resistor may be going bad and need replacing. Does it do it only on one or any fan speed? I'm not sure where that particular part is located for it has been number of years I have looked at vehicles older than 18 yrs. but I hope this steers you in the right direction. Jesus loves you, John 3:16-17 (KJV)

I think you could use this manual method instead.. My nephew used it to repair my car and it's totally perfectly fine now. Here's the website he bought it from. www.reliable-store.com

GM doesn't believe in making things easy. No access panel

How do you know it's surging? In any case, about the only thing that can cause this is a faulty regulator in the alternator, or a poor wiring connection (e.g. battery cable or at alternator).

Have you checked the vacuum line with a gauge? If so, how many pascal units does the vacuum line read? Vacuum gauges are around $5. Furthermore, I believe the design is sealed vacuum only system. The solenoid could be bad, but to my knowledge it is not an electrical component. A split in one of the vacuum lines could be cause of your problem. You would have to trace the all the vacuum lines back to the source to find the problem. You would need that gauge to detect a leak in the system. Could also replace all the vacuum lines on principle since the vehicle is going on two decades.

Sorry Doris. It is the transmission is gone.

On most cars in this era, the pump itself can be adjusted by loosening the mounting points at the front and rear of pump.

Behind the firewall? Sounds like you need to take your dash off and get at it from the inside.