20 Most Recent 1992 Oldsmobile Ninety Eight Regency - Page 2 Questions & Answers

in the plastic air tube or filter cover only two screw hold on.

A metal bracket that holds the motor in place. there are usually three, two in the front of the motor (one on each side) and one in the back.

On what kind of vehicle?

Pass the computer test for exaclty problem. Otherwise you must waste your money and time. Go to the repair shop and complaint about the problem.God bless you

if you didn't bleed master before bleeding whole system you may still have air in system, in which order did you the bleed brakes?

Hi Ruben, You would help us by telling us what vehicle it is you're inquiring about? The circuits for the controls built into the steering wheel are usually carried in a special cassette which has all the cables molded into a flat Teflon strip. It's located inside the steering wheel and accessed by removing the steering wheel. It is not uncommon for the unit to become defective, folding at the end and breaking the cables inside and causing an open circuit in the operations of the the touch operations. The cables cannot be repaired, meaning that the unit should be replaced. Regards John

YOUR OIL PUMP COULD BE GOING BAD. OR YOU OIL SENDING SENSOR COULD BE GOING BAD YOU COULD HAVE SOME THING IN YOUR OIL PAN STOPPING UP THE OIL PUMP IT REALLY COULD BE A NUMBER OF THINGS

You fill your transmission fluid through the dipstick tube. Be sure to check the existing transmission fluid while the vehicle is running in park after it has reached its peak operating temperature. You will notice two marks on the dipstick the bottom is a cold mark and the upper is a hot mark. If you need to add fluid be sure to use dexron mercon 3 atf and add the fluid in small increments to avoid overfilling and damaging transmission. When adding fluid add 1/4 of a quart at a time with your parking brake on and foot on the brake shift it through all ranges 2 or 3 times and check fluid again and add more fluid and repeat this step until full

if master cylinder is bad. the pedal will go to floor running or not.when the pedal goes down at a standing stop it is usually the master cylinder thats bad. and losing vacuum. thats if there are no other leaks at wheel cylinders etc. if putting on a new master cylinder, do not forget to bench bleed it! heres how. put the master cylinder in the vise, fill it full of fluid then pump the plunger with a dowel or something soft as to not ruin plunger part.do not let it run dry ! when fluid comes out from master cylinder and no more air is in it. fill it up and put on car. heres what I do! remove the lines from old cylinder on car. as long as you do not lose any fluid doing this, there is no need to bleed air from brakes when done. after on car make sure master cylinder is full of fluid. start the car and pump the brakes a few times, then you should be all set.

Could be any number of things actually. Could be the ignition switch, could be the fuse box. I have also seen the ground harness on them go bad. Thats actually pretty common. The connector is located inder the driver side front rug. You will have to remove a few things to access it and pull the rug back. If its the issue you will notice that the connector is yellow and greenish in color and when you pull on a wire it will most likely come right out. That is the most common problem for those cars when you have more than one system being affected. First thing I would do however is get under the dash and access the wire harness from the key switch. This will have a bunch of wires in there but six of them will be very big. A few red ones a pink one a brown one a purple one and so on. I believe you are going to put a test light to the brown one and after you turn key on you should have power. Now wiggle the key and see if you loose power. If not look under the rug.

Check Fuel Pump/Pick Up Line & Filter in tank, if the Tank is Dented or Damaged that could cause it not to pickup that last 1/4 Tank. It could MAINLY be your fuel pump though. Because with the car full of gas, the fuel pump does have to work near as hard. Hope this helps, James Booth

in my experience finding specific directions on how to do that are nearly impossible to find due to the strict EPA regulations on the use of refrigerant. but when i replaced the evaporator core on my tahoe i found it helpful to go on to youtube and search how to remove the dash. once the dash is out disconect the lines going to the evaporator core and the heater core from the engine side of the firewall. from inside the vehicle remove all screws securing the heater box to the firewall. you have to search for one or two hidden screws. looking from the engine side may make them visible. the heater box should pull out easily if not you missed a screw. once out of the vechicle remove all screws hold the box halves together, mine had about fifteen going all the way around it. open it up remove the evaporator core, clean any dirt, leaves etc. out of the box. replace core and reinstall. honestly not a very difficult job, but it is time consuming. hope this helps.

I don't think it'a a abs problem ,sounds like a brake booster or master cylinder issue. Good luck hope this helps some.

If you have no power at all when you turn the key on try changing your battery.If you have power and the starter isn't engaging remove your starter and have it tested to see if is bad.Most of your local auto parts stores do this for free.

check my tips section

According to the schematic, the Black/Yellow wire goes from the Trunk Lid Latch Switch when it is latched to the Pull Down Unit. This could be related to your problem.

Also, the Pull Down Unit has different modes depending on whether the Striker is down or the Striker is extended. Also, whether the lid is open or if it is closed.

Normally, the Trunk Lid Latch Switch is Latched and the Striker is down.

I would try to run a new wire for the Black/Yellow wire from the Trunk Lid Latch Switch down to the Pull Down Unit to see if it works.