20 Most Recent 1991 Oldsmobile Ninety Eight Regency - Page 5 Questions & Answers

Some TPS Sensors are adjustable. Usually held on by two screws, loosen the two screws slightly to twist the sensor either counter clockwise or clockwise. You should be using a scanner when installing a new TPS so you can visually see the values. If there is no adjustment on this particular one you may just have a bed new TPS. Make sure after replacing you clear codes/disconnect battery for 10 minutes and reconnect.

It depends on your area. You can replace the ignition switch portion yourself. However the key lock has a chip on it that tells your cars computer it is ok to start. The dealer will have to re-program your cars computer to tell it that that key lock cylinder is ok to start the car.

sound slike the main computer in the vehicle. Check the PCM and have it diagnosed.

Probably the control switch. See post at http://www.fixya.com/cars/t5072781-location_blower_motor_relay

Review this Wiring Schematic about Olds 98 ('89, '90 & '91):
1989 1
1989 2

1990 1
1990 2

1991 1
1991 2

I really hope help you with this (remember rated this help). Good luck.

One possible cause is a bad ignition module inside the distributor. The center high voltage wire on the distributor cap to the coil should also be checked for corrosion.

It is not in the battery voltage but it is in the Ampere hour in the case of car or automotive batteries
So I think a 12Volt/65 AH battery could be good enough.

Remove the crankshaft pulley,the harmonic balance,with a puller made for this,then you can replace the sensor,and align it,if it is not aligned,it will break it.

Sounds like the solenoid is faulty.

There's no sensor, but sometimes it takes a while to get the air out of the fuel lines and get it primed again. You can do this without cranking it by turning the ignition switch on, wait 5 seconds, turn it off. Repeat a few times. There is one other potential issue. Sometimes if a fuel pump was getting ready to go out and you run it out of gas, it knocks the fuel pump out and it needs replaced. First try priming it with ignition switch, and if this doesn't work, you will want to look at your fuel pump.

The battery connections may be dirty, and battery itself might be bad.

If this happens either the console is junk, or the system is low on freon and won't allow you to select that mode.

OK I think you have two unrelated issues here. The first is the coolant sensor. Either the sensor is broken or, just as likely, there is a problem with the wires going to and from it, either broken or the insulation has broken causing a short. When the coolant sensor malfunctions it can send a signal to engine control unit (ECU) that the coolant, and therefore the engine, is cold. The ECU responds by injecting more fuel to compensate for a 'cold' engine and this causes the engine to race. Fix the coolant sensor/wiring and the engine racing will also be cured. The charging voltage from the alternator is too high in my experience. It should be only be about 14.5 volts even when the battery is low. Most alternators have an integrated brushes and electronic module that can be unbolted and exchanged for a new one. Failing that, an alternator can be bought at a reasonable price on exchange for your old one. Some damage to other electrical systems my result of high voltage supply, my car actually has an over voltage protection relay and fuse to protect the ABS braking system and other circuits. A friendly consultation with an auto electrician now might save money on other things in future

look up Dorman Products..they may make a kit to "bypass" the compressor.

have you changed the fuel filter, air filter, and dod you put new spark plugs in it when you replaced the coil pack?

look for a penny to be in there

Check the crank position sensor.(CKP) just dont go replacing parts, check them and verfiy bad.

The servo unit in the engine compartment is at fault not working. It has cables running to it fron the throttle body

the cheapest place would be an auto salvage yard