20 Most Recent 1995 Mercedes-Benz S-Class - Page 8 Questions & Answers

add a fuel injection system cleaner,and take it for a good run on the freeway.

There must be something wrong with the battery and the charging system.

Do you know that batteries expire?

I experienced it before and it was the same feeling you had.

Consider replacing your battery and checking the charging system/ alternator ratings.

Cheers.

i think it is in the trunk between the two rear speakers on the back deck

Fairly common problem so i would say it is definitely your head gasket. Sorry.

i have same problem on 1997 s420, don't know why it is happening. but you can replace cigar lighter fuse then replace seat/mirrors/steering wheel fuse and all is well. thnx

That is the coolant level sensor, its a coolant tank not battery. Means level is low or sensor is bad.

SRS light is for your air bags, worry not. shaking is a bad part in your front end suspension or badly balanced tire.

The blower motor is on the passanger side lift the hood and there is a long black plastic cover the same length as the windshield, remove that and you will see it, labor time is about 1 hour or around $125.00, the part in the aftermarket is around $150.00, $250-$300 should do the job, a hint don't buy the motor from the dealer, 5X's as much as the aftermarket part, check ebay to.

The blower motor is on the passanger side lift the bonet and there is a long black plastic cover the same lenth as the wind screen, remove that and you will see it, a new motor is like £1000 from Merc but you can buy a copy motor off ebay for less than £50 thats what I done. It is the com that wears out on the motor not the bushes, strange I know

Hello, There is usually a book the garages use called a "Flat Rate Repair Manual". This book is suppose to detail the procedures for the repair and give the mechanic an idea of what to charge.
This means if you call around, you can get a time estimate(multiply by hourly rate) of the labor.

Yours is one of those cases where there is not a diagnostic device to predict the problem and you need an old school mechanic to listen to the engine. Someone who is experienced can tell you what the problem is before opening the motor.

If you have a "rod knock", you have to go through the oilpan and/or pull the motor and you can get away with working on just the one cylinder thats bad. But the good news is if the noise is a hydraulic lifter and you have an overhead camshaft engine some of the parts are more accessible. You would not need to pull the head.

You are in a tight spot. To check out more prices use the telephone. The repair places need to hear the car before they can say much. If it is a hydraulic lifter sometimes STP can help. The 10 hours does sound extreme unless that would go to pulling the motor. Tell the current shop you can not pay for bad guesses and have them explain what part they intend to replace.

Try removing the brake lamp bulbs and make sure they are not installed incorrectly. It can cause a backfeed into several circuits, therefore causing erratic symptoms.

it being that old and a Benz, milage is a non issue unless you are getting a loan from the bank. Just pay a good price screw carfax. Stuff only shows up if someone reports it and they make mistakes.

hello,good day,you can erase (using hht or star) but might be back again,part tobe check,,engine wiring harness,ldling actuator,sensor,connection,better to send your car to a dealer,they have diagnosis manual to guide them step by step,special tool like diagnosis cable,contact box and a simulator,this step can pin point the defective part,ty

Your blower motor is probably out. It also could be a fuse or the blower motor resistor. Blower motor resistors commonly fail.

before you spend any more money on your vehicle run a cylinder compression test. I know it seems unlikley with less than 100,000 miles but 119 engines do like to burn valves. the LH fuel injection system was only used from 93-95. LH is a germen abreviation for hot wire mass airflow. The later systems use a hot film. Your vehicle has electronic fuel injection so why did you have the fuel injecters pressure cleaned. unless you have the cis system which means your car is not a 95. Motor mounts are also a very common failure on that vehicle. In any event rule out the worst case and perform a compression test because it really sucks to spend alot on an engine and find out it needs a valve job. I'm assuming that the check engine light is not on. although wireharness issues are another common issue. these early C.A.N. cars are very difficult to troubleshoot electronically and the information provided by the factory is difficult to follow.

no there is not a seperate fuse. Most likely the wireharness broke in trunk hinge. If you take the right side hinge cover apart you will find a wireharness. carfully open up harnes with razor and repair broken wires. You might even find it broken in half it is a very common problem. make sure you solder in a slightly longer wire and don't solder the wires in the same place so it sill fit back in the trough.

To bleed you brake system, you will need brake fluid, a jar, and a couple feet of small hose that fits tightly on the bleeder screws. You should not need to remove the tires to access the bleeder screws, but you may need to raise the vehicle a bit to access them.

To bleed the system, start with the right rear wheel. Put a couple inches of brake fluid in the jar, attach the hose to the bleeder screw, put the hose in the jar of brake fluid, then open the bleeder screw. Once the bleeder screw is open, pump the brake several times. Next, close the bleeder screw. After you close the bleeder screw, remove the hose and jar, then fill the master cylinder with brake fluid.
Repeat the steps going to the left rear second, right front third, and left front last.

Once you have bled the system your brakes should be tight and working nice.

I hope this information helps you, and I wish you luck on your repair.

If they are fixed calipers (which they probably are) then yes. If they are floating calipers then you have to remove the two bolts on the guide pins. From your description it sounds like they are fixed calipers, in which case you remove the clip on the pin and remove the pin and pads. Compress the pistons and replace the pads and pin. Be sure to tighten the bolt you removed.

hello,you a v 8 engine,119 ,remove your fan shroud,you can remove your fan blade with 10 mm spanner , in center of your visco fan,look for allen bolt,screw out ,then big srecw driver,place in visco fan to hold while csrew out the center bolt,ty