2000 Chevrolet Tahoe - Page 5 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

the indicator lights are related, sometimes it is a speed sensor,if your truck is 4 wheel abs you may have a front wheel bearing going bad, the best thing to do is have someone scan it to at least isolate which wheel the bad signal is coming from. this is something autozone stores may do for free.

You one or more drive shaft universal joints that are worn out and that is the source of the noise. Have them all checked, it is best to replace all at once.

Not a bad sign for your drivetrain...sounds solid without any play...Be sure you are inflating all tires to the Tahoe's specs...these tire sizes and air pressures are usually found on the frame around your drivers door...Your owners manual may help too. Many tire stores list the recommended air pressures in their computer system info for most cars and trucks. However, sometimes there system is incorrect. Many owners will inadvertantly overinflate there tires due to the spongy sidewall of the radial tire. Overinflation will also lead to tire noises at take off, and cornering, and stopping. When you decide to look at tire replacements...remember that all tires are NOT the same:) Reading the reviews on-line by other consumers is usually helpful. Hope this helps.

If you have the experience you can remove the transmission and rebuild it or you can take it to a trans tech and get an estmate for the rebuild > after the estimate you can call some bone yards and see how much they would want for a used transmission with a warranty> you can also go online and get a price for a bebuilt with a warranty.

Go look over at chevy truck forum and search, you will find the answer there.

Take your vin number to any Chevy Dealer's Parts Counter. They can pull up the parts diagram and give you a part number. The ring is most likely a dealer part. So you will need to go to the dealer anyway to buy this part.

disconnect the positive cable off the battery for ten mins. then reconnect and the light should go out. but if there are any codes on the computer that need to be addressed it will come back on

This could be one of two problems, or possibly both:1. The blend door actuator is not working. Take off the panel below the glove box on the passenger side floorboard. You are looking for a small flat control a bit smaller than a pack of cigarettes. It is located on the bottom of the dash area, just to the right of the transmission hump. As you turn the switch from heat to cool and back, this actuator should move a shaft coming out of the bottom of the heat/AC box and into the middle of this actuator. You will also hear a motor type noise from it while moving the control. If this is faulty, you may have issues with the control sticking on heat or cool, or possibly not switching at all (as in your case). A failure in this component could also be caused by a bad switch in the controls on the dashboard, but this isn't as likely. 2. The heater core is blocked. There are two hoses going through the firewall on the passenger side of the engine compartment. They are roughly the same side as a garden hose, maybe a little thicker, and go through the firewall adjacent to each other. With the truck warmed up, carefully feel each hose. Are they both similar in temperature? If not, the coolant flow in the heater core is likely partially or completely blocked. Try flushing it with a garden hose while it is disconnected from the remainder of the heating system. If you have a complete blockage, you may not be able to flow any water through the heater core. Be careful not to use too much pressure, as you don't want to risk rupturing the heater core, especially if it is already corroded.I hope this helps, as I have been through the same issue with my Tahoe. Good luck!

the only time you should have to bleed the brakes is if you opened a bleeder screw, repaired a brake line, replaced a brake hose, replaced a caliper/wheel cylinder, or replaced the master cylinder. If you have not opened up the hydraulic system than it is not necessary to bleed the brakes.It can be beneficial to flush the brake system. Brake fluid is hygroscopic which means it likes to absorb moisture. If your brake fluid is dark in color or even green (green color is caused by the erosion of the inside of the brake lines do to water contamination) it wouldn't hurt to flush the brake system. this would essentially be bleeding all four corners until clear fluid comes out. Water in the brake system reduces the boiling point of the brake fluid which can lead to brake failure under extreme braking conditions. Let me know if you have any questions and thank you for using FixYa.com! I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

The security light is a visual indication that something in the car's antitheft system is failing. In most GM cars and trucks there is a hidden system that most people are unaware even exists. From the moment you put your key in the ignition, there begins a constant line of communication between your key's security chip or transponder, to the ignition's lock cylinder, and then to the car's TDM. These 3 parts are in CONSTANT communication. If the key is in the ignition, these parts are sending signals to each other. The security light illuminates when that signal gets broken, even just for a second. When the signal breaks, the car goes into antitheft mode. The car thinks its being stolen or hotwired because it is not getting that signal from YOUR specific key. There is where the security light turns on and shuts down your vehicle.This link should help you out.http://vatspasslockpasskeysecurityhelp.yolasite.com/

your blower motor has a rheostat that regulates the speed they will call this a resistor at the parts counter. So you need a blower motor resistor to fix your problem-good luck.

How much exhaust is coming out, sounds like a collapsed muffler/clogged catalytic converter. Run it for about 20 minutes in your driveway, being careful, NOT TO TOUCH components. Move your hand from rear to front, it should feel about the same amount of heat coming off all the rear most pipes. Very hot toward front. If a blockage, as your hand passes over the parts of the system, you will feel a difference.

First and foremost, check the cars battery. Take to an auto parts store to have it tested. The other issue could be fuses. Check every single one. There is a fuse block under the hood near the battery. The other one is in the side of the dash on the left side. From experience I learned that there are more functions for one particular fuse than what is shown on the panel. Example... in my 1996 Tahoe, the fuse that controls the inside lights also controls the power mirriors. Everything is different so refer to an owners manual. Beyond checking the battery and fuses, if that doesn't work then have a dealership look at it.

Check the fuel pressure at the fuel rail. Is the check engine light ON? Did you scan the car for any error codes?

SEE IF YOU TRIGERED THE NURSHA SWITCH WITCH SHUTS OFF FUEL IN THE EVENT OF AN ACCIDENT. THE RESET IS IN A COMPARTMENT IN BACK POP THE HATCH AND ON SIDE WALL YOU WILL SEE A COMPARTMENT OPEN IT WILL BE A CABLE WITH EITHER A YELLOW OR RED TAG ON IT JUST PULL THE CABLE TO RESET AND SEE IF THE CAR WILL START ALSO CAN LOOK IN OWNERS MANUAL UNDER FUEL WILL HELP YOU LOCATE THIS

This code does not indicate necessarily a problem with a transmission control switch. It is a serial data code, and some more diagnostics will need to be done. You will need to check for codes on the ECM (Engine Control Module), the TCM (Transmission Control Module) and the EBTC (Electronic Brake Traction Control) modules to isolate this problem. Here is the description on this code.

DTC P1779, P1780, P1791, P1792, or P1795
The engine control module (ECM), transaxle control module (TCM), and the body control module (BCM) communicate with each other over the controller area network (CAN) BUS circuits 2500 and 2501. The CAN BUS is a communications protocol that is used by the TCM to communicate vital engine control inputs from a stand-alone engine controller. The diagnostic checks the information received in CAN to determine whether to pass or fail a code. Before checking the information, the TCM makes sure the CAN messages are being received by checking the BUS failure timer.

DTC P1779, P1791, P1792 or P1795 will set if the TCM did not receive a needed engine parameter over the CAN BUS from the ECM when:
• Engine speed is greater than 500 rpm for 5 seconds and not at fuel cutoff.
• System voltage between 8 and 18 volts.
• This code does not indicate a problem with the TCM. It does indicate the ECM is not sending the required information to the TCM.
• Check for and diagnose any DTCs stored in the ECM related to the ECT, pedal position or TP sensor circuits.
• Check for any DTCs stored in the EBTCM related to the torque reduction/request circuit.

Check in THIS LINK additional information about DTC P1780.

Hope helps.

Unhook one battery cable, positive usually. Now hook a multimeter between the battery post and the cable. With everything off it should read zero volts or close to that. then switch the meter to measure current (amperage) it should read zero again (or very slightly above that as the radio memory draws a small amount.
If it isn't zero or low then you have an item that is staying on and draining your battery overnite. Time to troubleshoot what it may be.

No there is not, That is if you are referring to the fuel pump. You have an under hood fuse box in it you will have a fuse that protects the fuel pump circuit, a fuel pump relay, and wiring from there to the fuel pump which is located in the fuel tank. If you are not getting any fuel most likely the fuel pump has failed and will need replaced, Install a new fuel filter as well.

It is probally in 4 wheel drive. It is supposed to **** while turning in 4 wheel drive because all 4 tires are trying to turn at the same speed and when you turn one tire slows down and the other tire speeds up but it cant in 4 wheel drive so it skips or jerks. If there is also a clicking noise the CV joint might be going out.

There should be no hidden fuse or relay for the standard wiring. If you wire the ignition system directly the battery you should get the starter going. It may be the contacts on the ignition switch itself or the ignition switch. The contacts may just not touch each other correctly.