Top 20 1991 Buick Century Questions & Answers

Check there is no air in the fuel line.

TCC solenoid ,no . Crankshaft position sensor or ignition module maybe. . What engine does it have ? 2.5 or 3.3 Video's on youtube showing how to test

A couple of possibilities come to mind. I'm not sure how your filter installs, but if it connects above the fluid level, it could draw air if not sealed correctly. This would reduce the pressure needed to shift. The second possibility is that the transmission range sensor is out of adjustment such that the transmission is in low 2 when you want it in drive.

My 1st suggestion would be to get a scan done for the check engine light. I'm not talking about a simple 'code reader' but an actual scan tool so all of the different sensors and perimeters can be read. You will need to get one or find someone with a scan tool which can do OBD I vehicles. If the engine isn't running correctly this could cause the transmission not wanting to shift. 2 vehicles that come to mind where I've seen this happen. One was a Pontiac and it wouldn't shift into overdrive. Problem was the thermostat which was stuck open and it wouldn't allow the engine to get up to proper temperature which kept the transmission from shifting. The other was a Ford Explorer that the lady thought for sure the transmission was bad. After a test drive and investigation it was found the catalytic converter was mostly plugged which wouldn't allow the engine to achieve the proper torque and RPMs to get the transmission to shift. Now granted neither of these examples are an exact duplicate of the problems you are having. They are simply to illustrate that engine performance (or the lack of) CAN affect the way the transmission shifts. Hope this helps.

Instead of guessing you should learn to test , so you don't replace parts needlessly ! Fuel Pump Electrical Circuits Description and Operation Do you know how to use a DVOM - digital volt ohm meter ?

There should be a purple wire with white tracer from ignition module to computer. That wire carries rpm signal to computer, w/o that signal, the computer won't ground the fuel injectors. With the engine cranking, you look for a dc pulse on that wire. If you have a digital multimeter that has a tach--duty cycle or dwell setting, it should react to a dc pulse. My info on your model year, isn't that great.

Before you go any further, have the battery checked. If there is an internal problem, it will create all kinds of problems like this.

There is a fuse but if it is only back ones and the front work without trouble not fuse. If one window don't work could be motor. If both windows don't work probably a switch check left rear switch. Also relay space 9 in fuse box

If the brakes are locking in that way I would suspect you have a partially blocked flexible brake line on that wheel. When you apply the brakes you can force the fluid through but when you release them the fluid will not flow back up the line and is locking your brakes as a result. You will not see deterioration from the outside of the hose because brake hoses deteriorate from the inside especially near each end. If you cannot fix it yourself take it to a brake specialist to diagnose. Look forward to a civil law suit and a criminal prosecution if you disconnect your rear brakes and have an accident which I can absolutely guarantee you will.

if you have the proper tools you will need to support the engine with a jack, undo the mount nuts and bolts remove them then remove the mount. you can use the jack to move the motor up or down depending on what needs to be done.

Follow the rubber hose from the air filter box. That will lead to the pcv valve

No, I'm pretty sure you don't, but to be sure, register for free at autozone.com. You can list your vehicle on there, and see the manufacturer approved R&R procedure for transmission removal. I think they get their source from Chilton manuals, it appears very similar to paper manuals. On those models, I think you can pull the transaxle out separately, and put a jack under the oil pan (block of wood between), to keep the engine from sagging down too far.

Switch setting on drivers door not correct. May be in lockout to prevent accidental operation when driving or the switches themselves are faulty.

replace the barrel in the ignition lock and you will get 2 keys already cut to the new barrel. If there is an immobiliser included in the system you will have to get the new keys programmed to the CPU in the ECM of the car

check your fuel pump

You may have a vacuum leak at the EGR valve gasket. They took the EGR valve off your car to replace the head gaskets. It will be a free repair, because they caused the problem by not reinstalling a new gasket when putting the EGR valve back onto the engine.

If cruse works at all, check for vacuum leak in the control unit or hoses. If cruse doesn't work at all, check adjustment of switch at brake pedal which tells the unit to disengage when you touch the brakes, and also the fuse for this item.

First thing I would check would be to make sure they put enough coolant back after they did their work. Sounds like the car overheated and the engine seized up.

Go from under the dash to get to the back of the radio.

you need change the map sensor (manifold absolute pressure)