1986 Buick Skylark - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Sounds to me like you addressed everything but the radiator. Check it or just replace it.

Do you mean no spark from the coil or distributor? Because the coil needs battery voltage to it to operate. If you have no spark from the coil wire and you believe the wire is good or you have no reason to suspect it failing in a very short time, then before you do anything else, you should check if the small, pink wire to the little + side of the coil is a live wire (has current or voltage, and the connection is clean and tight) when the key is in on position. If no power there, the ignition switch or the wiring from the switch to the coil is bad.If you have power to the coil, then either the coil or the electronic ignition module (inside the distributor, I think) may be bad. They can both be tested. Auto parts stores will test the ignition module for free. There are other possibilities for no spark, like a computer fault, or a bad pick-up coil, or a wiring or grounding fault, but for starters test the coil or swap in a known good one. If not the coil, check the ignition module next. Good luck. Don't see many of those cars on the road anymore. Hope you keep it running.

I have owned several older GM products, and have found that (as with any older car) when it comes to ignition issues, isolating them is simpler.You had mentioned your plugs not sparking, see if your coil has spark ( by removing the wire connected to it, placing it close to the coil itself and cranking it) if there is spark there the next move would be check the opposite end for spark-if good, check your distributor cap and rotor. Look for wear on the contact points inside and cracks in the plastic.It is fairly easy to isolate mechanical issues with older cars, only wish I could find the fix for my issue with the check engine light on my older car. Good luck and let me/us know how this went.here's a typical diagram http://images.ask.com/fr?q=Ignition+System+Diagram&desturi=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.familycar.com%2FClassroom%2Fignition.htm&initialURL=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ask.com%2Fweb%3Fqsrc%3D313%26q%3DIgnition%2BSystem%2BDiagram%26o%3D11106%26l%3Ddir%26ni%3D%26pstart%3D&fm=i&ac=935&fsel=2&ftURI=http%3A%2F%2Fimages.ask.com%2Ffr%3Fq%3DIgnition%2BSystem%2BDiagram%26desturi%3Dhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.familycar.com%252FClassroom%252Fignition.htm%26imagesrc%3Dhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.familycar.com%252FClassroom%252Fimages%252FIgnitionDiagram.gif%26thumbsrc%3Dhttp%253A%252F%252Fmedia5.picsearch.com%252Fis%253FQBY5K91Ebiskm_sKBpi_HkrmjozD-oVuxXItTg04nkE%26o%3D11106%26l%3Ddir%26thumbuselocalisedstatic%3Dfalse%26thumbwidth%3D128%26thumbheight%3D114%26fn%3DIgnitionDiagram.gif%26imagewidth%3D682%26imageheight%3D609%26fs%3D33%26f%3D2%26fm%3Di%26fsel%3D2%26ftbURI%3Dhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.ask.com%252Fweb%253Fq%253DIgnition%252BSystem%252BDiagram%2526page%253D1%2526o%253D11106%2526l%253Ddir%2526pstart%253D&qt= Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/keith_f374b1cfd1696a17

check for worn caliper bushing, hears a picture to show you what im talking about. good luck.

check your injector fuses and also your crank sensor

inside the dash behind the information display ( speed, gas, etc ) you will find wires that are loose..you will have to replace them. i have a 1983 Olds Regency 98 that had the same problem.

1. Try this locate your goose neck its where your thermostat is located should be top hose comming from your radiator to your engine block. Tap on it lightly several times this might be made out of aluminum so don't go crazy on it.

2. Do this while it is hot but not over heating see it it fluxuates and it may calm down, sludge and gum builds up around the thermostat and causes it not to open (Or Sticks) CLOSED and creates pressure and heat it's letting the coolant circulate through the engine thus it can't keep the engine cool.

3. Question does the electric fans kick on, if it has electric fans? If not then the fan has a sensor check sensor loose connections and the ground is very important also make sure the fuse is not blown may have two fuses on on engine fuse block and one under the dash check both.

4. Mileage if its high miles car the radiator may be old depending on your situation may consider replacing it, replace the thermostat that usually is the culprit!

REMEMBER TO check coolant level!

5. But not always. Maintenance, Maintenance, Maintenance! If doing routine checks on your vehicle Isn't your bag of tricks then try your local jiffy lube or other lube shop. GOOD LUCK!

In many cars there is a flapper valve in the ductwork which is sometimes vacuum actuated.If this flapper is stuck or the vacuum line is unhooked or deteriorated,you will not feel any warm air at the vents.Look under the dash for rubber vacuum lines or try moving the selector knob for HOT/COLD or FEET/VENT/DEFROST while revving engine alittle to increase vacuum.

i know this might sound stupid but , have you checked the coolent level?

it is behind the plastic venting under the dash it has to be removed to get to the heater core

make sure the radiator is full and that the thermostat was put in the right way

Check for electroplating business. We have one in our area that does bumpers or whatever needs chrome re-done. contact a local car club too if you any in your area, they'd most likely have all those number & connections for you. Even a local bodyshop should be of assistance.

google 1985-1986 Buick skylark fuse box location for more info copy and paste https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=obFG2paEVX0 https://www.autogenius.info/buick-skylark-1980-1985-fuse-box-diagram/

1985, or 1995? https://www.2carpros.com/diagrams/buick/skylark/1995 https://www.google.com/search?q=Belt+diagram+1985+skylark+2.8 ..

You can check thi website, you find there fuse box diagram and drescription for Buick Skylark Skylark CARKNOWLEDGE

check for freeze plugs.

You have a couple of different problems here. You need to address the leak issue first. If you took it to a shop, go back and tell them to fix their work. Your radiator fan is another issue. Is this fan the big one you normally see on engines or are you talking about the auxiliary cooling fan that is mounted in its own assembly right behind the radiator? The auxiliary fan is controlled by a temperature sensor that your car's computer operates. For a better explanation, see the following link: https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-an-electric-cooling-fan-works More than likely, the shop that did your work did something wrong and they are required to fix their screw up. At a minimum, they should warranty their work for at least 90 days.

Hey misty, ok, why did you replace those things? Was there a specific reason to make you start replacing things or just throwing parts at a issue?
Are you mixing antifreeze with your water? Are you using distilled water when you mix 50/50?
Is there a fan in front or close to your radiator? Does it kick on when getting hot?
Is there something blocking the flow of air in the front?
Is there a transmission cooler or tranny lines that get cooled by the system also? Is that getting hot?
Did you change the exhaust in any way?
Did you check the air filter?
Lower tires? Less are gets under in that case.
Water pump working? Water will not circulate with weak or faulty pump. I know you said it was replaced but why, did it fail or was there another issue with it, belt loose maybe, slipping causing less rotation.
Bad replacement thermostat, is it opening and closing as it should
Be careful opening your cap!! Open the hood and try to be in shade and wait, don't pour water in when it's that hot, especially when you do it over and over.
Where is the water going? It's a closed system so it is leaving somewhere. Maybe when it is hot and under pressure it leaks, pressure test the system and that way it's a cool area to work with and easier to track down

Servo may be, back in the 60's I put the wrong fluid in, & punctured the diaphragm , the fluid remained inside the servo.

The switch is on the steering column under the dash.