Top 20 1991 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Questions & Answers

If not reachable from underneath the engine tips forward to change they make a holding tool. Loosen the dog bone engine mounts and lean on the car you'll see the engine move pull it forward with a bar then find something to hold it there. I hope this helps. Take Care.

Cores come in 2 general design locations--in dash and under hood. Both are replaceable but the dash tends to be more problematic as it may include removing the entire dash assembly. under-hood may require opening up the air conditioner system to access the air plenum. Search Youtube for "how to" videos to get a good idea of knowledge and skills required. The shop manual is available from auto part supply stores for around $30 and in some public libraries. You may have a split or lose hose and not the core itself. Suggest you first rent borrow or buy a remote inspection camera to locate exact leak location.

Frequently the float/in tank fuel pump assembly which is mounted in the gas tank is to blame for this. As you can see from the attached picture it is an all in one unit. It is something you might want an auto shop to handle. I have replaced some that are accessible from under the trunk mat but it does involve fuel so I would recommend a mechanic to replace it.

If your vehicle is fuel injected I would say you have a blown fuel regulator. This would cause excess fuel into the cylinders (flooding) causing a miss and coughing and also blow fuel into the air breather. If will also cause the vehicle to run poorly and could cause the vehicle to stall. Also to much fuel on startup can flood the cylinders and cause the vehicle to no start.

Condenser Blocked From Putting Water In It Put All Anti Freeze In it To The Top Take The Cap Off While Its Running For 10 Minutes Is It Circulating,But Is Not Circulating From The Condenser? Take The Hose Off Under The Dash,It Connects To The Condensor Is It Dirty?

there is a draw on the system when not in use. you will have to find which circuit the draw is on and then find out what in the system is causing the draw in order to fix it. this is a job for a repair shop. have you had the battery completely checked out it could be the battery has an internal problem. start with the battery first.

Use care in removing the fuel injectors to prevent damage to the electrical connector pins on the injector and the nozzle. The fuel injector is serviced as a complete assembly only and should not be immersed in any kind of cleaner. Support the fuel rail to avoid damaging other components while removing the injector. Be sure to note that different injectors are calibrated for different flow rates. When ordering new fuel injectors, be sure to order the identical part number that is inscribed on the bottom of the old injector.

when you took it out you did not see how it goes back , look on yourtube , that is prob your best bet or go on ebay and get a cd manual for it ,

Depending on the type of car you have, it can be very easy or very difficult. The easy ones will have a circular metal plate on the firewall with about 10 very small screws around its circumference. Protruding from that plate will also be a small usually black can looking object about the size of a soup can. This is the fan motor. Just disconnect positive terminal on battery before starting, then remove the series of small screws. They are usually a hex type screw, not a slotted. The whole assembly will lift out and the replacement will look just like this one you've removed. That's the easy one... the difficult ones are under the dash, passenger side inside the heater box. They look like the one I described previously, but usually require a lot more disassembly of surrounding components. Best of luck!

could be a fouled plug or bad plug wire.

sounds like u have a problem with your coil pack that is what sends spark to plugs

I had an '89 Mustang the had cracks in my fuel injectors, no fuses on them but that's Ford and GM's Difference. While I was looking in junkyards for my fuel injectors to replace them, I was also looking for a GM alternator. I noticed that there were a lot of GM cars that had silicone coated over the Fuel injectors on many of the V6 model Cars! I determined that this was their solution, Silicone's cheap and you have little to loose by trying this. New fuel injectors can be very expensive and you'll never find any good used ones from what I saw, 75 percent had this done to them and the other 25 were probably bad but didn't know how to patch them up.

Vapor lock is more or less impossible with a fuel injected engine.Years ago when engines used a carburetor, liquid gas flowed thru the line from the tank and sat in the bowl of the carb until it was pulled thru the venturi into the intake. If the fuel line or carb became too hot, the liquid gas would vaporize.Fuel injectors accomplish the same effect by spraying a vapor of fuel into the cylinders under pressure.

The low coolant sensor could be faulty, but it should not make the engine stop running.

ECM/PCM is going bad..

YOUR DIMMER SWITCH IS BAD.

This is a long shot, but it happened to my 3.1 corsica. After all the friggin around and testing everything I discovered it was a loose wire on the back of the computer. It was a wire that went into the plug itself. I wiggled the wires and all of a sudden it kicked in good. I moved my hand away, and there it was again. . The computer is probably located under the dash on the passengers side. Easy to get at. It's worth a try. If not that, you may have a bad computer, but check loose wires first. Let me know how you make out please. If that isn't the problem I'll be glad to walk you through some more tests

Click here to check power steering fluid.

If you have the 3-Panel Digital Cluster, with the Fuel on the Left.., Speed in Center.., and Odometer on the Right.., and the Cluster is going Wacky.., works one minute then craps out the next.., take the dash apart and remove the Digital Cluster. Take your time when unplugging the harness behind the cluster, use a mirror if you have to.., to unplug it correctly. The problem with this Digital Display is the Solder Connections.., at the 14-Pin IC Chip.., which is directly behind the Odometer Display on the main Circuit Board. When you get the Cluster removed.., again.., take your time.., and take the cluster apart.., so you get the main circuit board out. The 14-Pin Integrated Circuit (IC) Chip is marked with an IC2 on the main board.., which as mentioned is behind the Odometer Display. The IC Chip is usually Black in Color.., and is '@' 1/4" x 3/4" You will need a Soldering Iron.., @ a 30 watt with a pointed tip.., don't use a Soldering 'Gun'., too hard to use and too hot.., you don't want to cause yourself more problems by messing up the board circuit tracks by overheating them.., so it's best to use a smaller iron. It is a good idea to have some fine strand solder on hand.., but you should not need it.., all you want to do.., is to 'Re-Tin'.., or 'briefly' melt the Solder at all 14-pins of the IC Chip.., on the back side of the board.., to Re-Flow or Re-Solder the Connections of that 14-Pin IC Chip to the Circuit Board. That's all it is..!!!I just repaired my 1991 Olds Cutlass Supreme 3.1.., 3-Panel Digital Instrument Cluster in this manner.., and it has been "Perfect" for a month now..!!Take your time.., get it all back together.., and my bet is that it will be good to go for many more years to come..!!Good Luck.

check the fuel pressure