1998 Dodge Avenger - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Motor issue

sounds like compressor clutch is trying to engage so I would buy an a/c recharge kit get the one with a sealer in it follow the directions on package then if your clutch kicks in your good to go... if this don't work or only works for a day or two then need to find where system is leaking by a pro... I would be more worried about your amp overheating ...

I don't have experience with the avenger itself, but i've been wrenching on cars for longer then i care to admit and age myself... LOL.... but from what your describing i would almost suspect a ECU problem, but that doesn't make sense since you have injector pulses and spark. If you have fuel, air, and spark... The only thing i could suggest is recheck all electrical connections and possibly do a compression test to rule out anything that might have failed with the relearn test drive. A quick google search through some dodge forums didn't really turn up any common avenger issues, sounds like a hair pulling problem!

I would go with your transmission speed sensor first that I for sure cause happened to me once god how I hate sensors

take it to a electrical shop

is it a external or inside the bell housing?

why don't you bring the title to your local dodge dealer and have them make a key? I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

Check your fan, if it is electric fan, make sure it comes on. Check if your radiator is blocked or clogged, Remove it and get it inspected & cleaned by a radiator repair shop

could very well be a head gasket ,just because you have no oil in water or whatever doesnt mean to say the gasket hasnt failed between a piston and a water jacket which is the most common type of failure so stop reading these sites looking for a quick fix ,this vehicle is a 1998 ,its old and the gaskets at this age are likely to fail with age .Off with the head and renew the valve seals ,reseat the valves new gaskets renew any suspect water pipes and change the timing belts and water pump if driven by the timing belt at the same time .then it will run for another 15 yrs with no problems

do they light up and not flash or no light at all

Yes the dash has to be removed.... But I wouldn't give up up on a flush. I use muriatic acid 1 part to four parts water.let it set five minutes. blow it out. Do it again, the blow it out the other way. I do it 3 or 4 times. Watch what comes out. Takes about an hour and $6 for acid. Removing the dash is an6 hour job. If you know what you're doing....A week if you are doing it the first time and it is cold outside... Count on it.

Go to autozone.com and make a free account. Put in the year make and model and look for the free repair guides.

two mother in laws and a case of beer.

I would pull both doors panels off and reference the other door will be able to grab window that way too probably easy fix with something coming loose

If the odometer is reading correctly, the problem is the speedometer itself.

Did u look under the hood ? theres usually apanel of fuses &relays under hood,check firewall also.

right here:

First thing to do is to see if you have a clutch slave cylinder or cable operated clutch. Second the slave cylinder is on the end of the lever that goes into the clutch housing Before you change the clutch make sure that the problem is not in the slave cylinder or clutch master cylinder or cable as the case may be.

EGR stands for exhaust gas recirculation - the EGR valve allows some exhaust gas to be cycled back thru the intake and reburned to reduce emissions.

Check connections to crank sensor, then reset your comp by disconnecting your battery cables and holding them together. Make sure to have the code cleared as well.P1391 (M) Intermittent Loss of CMP or CKP Loss of the Cam Position Sensor or Crank Position sensor has occurred.