Top 20 1994 Dodge Spirit Questions & Answers

How long since overall tune-up? Did you check for applicable trouble codes? You should be able to check some codes, yourself. Cycle the key, on--off, on--off, on, then the check engine lite on the dash starts flashing, you count the flashes to get the codes. Your looking for two digit code, example, a code 24, is two quick flashes a slight pause then four flashes. If I replace an ignition coil, I usually replace spark plugs and plug wires, also. Could be other issues besides spark?

You can place a jack anywhere on the frame. Don't work underneath your car unless you also put jack stands under it in case the jack fails.

Can be several things: Loose terminal connections to solenoid, corroded terminals or wires, bad solenoid with burned coil or pitted contacts. Lastly, a too worn out key switch. To find out, test proper (12VDC) voltage at solenoid coil terminal, check for a bad ground too. Then test wiring between key switch and starter. Some power feeds are fed from fusible link harness behind battery box. For the age of the car, there could be some corrosion on terminals or even corroded and broken fusible wires because of nearness of battery acid vapors tend to eat near wiring slowly. My two cents. Amclaussen.

Hi, Im AL the owner of Big As Auto Repair. I actually own a 1995 Dodge Spirit 3.0 and its not to difficult. The hardest part is removing the bracket on the transmission so you can remove the dust cover for the flywheel. (1) Drain the oil. (2) Remove the transmission bracket and the dust cover. (3) Remover all the pan bolts except one, just loosen this one so you can pry the pan off, because the pan will be stuck on. (4) Clean the engine block and the oil pan very clean. (5) Install the gasket OR sealer which ever it calls for and install the pan and fill with new oil and filter. Hope this helps and please visit my Auto-Repair-Website: http://www.bigasautorepair.com/

You should buy an old haynes manual or pay the dealer for a diagram, should be real easy information to find. Probably not gonna get someone to know or post the info here

Hi, by the looks of it u quite handy, try google...type in the search bar make model year and the problem. You should be able to find instructions....

There is a door in your air intake that is thermoststicly controlledthat is to remain partially closed until tge engine warms up.Thereby letting in cold air on a cold engine, causing it to run rough.

You may need to remove the whole guage panel and see behind it if the main plug pulled out or came loose.

so let it warm up

Could be ignition coil. Have you done a tune up recently.

Here's where the switch is,near the oil filter.Here's what it looks like.

Most probably, due to the age of the car, the FUSIBLE LINKS that are pieces of wire with a high temperature insulation, located at the back of the battery, corrode with the battery acid vapors, and fail. I resorted to install a 40 AMP fuse holder, like the ones used by high power stereo installers, and some fuses. It was much easier than trying to get the original fusible wire. I just cut the failed section and placed the inline fuse holder in its place. The other usual failure is on a wire connector ta that same place, that gets corroded or fatigued and fails to make a good connection. As I replaced the fusible link with the described fuse holder, I got rid othe corroded connector. I did that about three years ago on my 1991, and it has been a success.

It has 2 bolts in front and 2 in the rear, they may have plastic covers over them. Also disconnect the wiring under the seat. That's it.

sounds like the linkage has come loose from the ******. follow the cable for your shifter from under the car to the mounting point on transmission. cable may be broke or linkage is

Check for vaccum leaks

It does, just fing the proper page!

You have a coolant leak and your car is overheating.Coolant is a mix of antifreeze and water and tastes "sweet"(WARNING: DO NOT EAT!!).Is your temperature gauge pointing in the "red"(needle pointing to the far right). The temperature guage is on your dash with a thermometer symbol.After the car has cooled(a few hours) find the source of coolant leak(green fluid). It is most likely a hose or a hole in your radiator(large aluminum box attached to the front of the car behind the grill). Fix the Hose or replace your radiator(depending on location of leak), and refill with proper mix of antifreeze(you can buy premixed coolant at your local auto parts store).

I suggest that you get the vehicle specific manual for the exact process but here's the general idea:Remove:The hood, the front axle nut on both sides, the tie rod ends, and ball joint, as much of the brake system and suspension as necessary to get the axles removed. Then, with it up in the air on sturdy ramps:CV Axles (making sure to put blanks in their place to prevent anything in the transaxle from slipping out of place, the starter, shift linkage, grounding straps/wiring harness, shift cables, speedo cable or wiring as applicable, sometimes both, any lines going to the transaxle. Hydraulic clutch lines if a manual and trans fluid lines if an automatic. You'll need to loosen the motor mounts and possibly the hoses to the engine as you may need to tilt the engine downward to get the trans. released and have room to pull it out.You should have everything out of the way, a hoist over the engine/trans compartment hooked to a sling around the transaxle to lower it and remove it from the bottom side once you remove the transmission mount and the bellhousing bolts. There is a bar designed to hold the engine in place so that it doesn't twist too much, you'll have to fabricate a means from underneath or above to keep it from tilting too far.I'm an older guy and I can do one of these jobs in about 5 or 6 hours these days. (Lord help me the next day though.)This is why you really need an illustrated step-by-step manual for your vehicle. It's a detailed time consuming job. Keep a pan handy for holding nuts & bolts, springs & clips.Good luck.

There is no pick-up line in the Spirit: the pump is articulated to swing up and down to follow the fuel level. If stuck, it could be. But another possibility is a clogged inlet mesh, so that when the fuel level drops, the pump cannot continue suctioning. One thing is for sure: one of the very few thing that the excellently reliable Spirit and Acclaim models that can be troublesome, is the fuel pump. As a general recommendation on these cars (and all of the same platform, like the Shadow and Le-Baron) is to never let the car run on the last part of the tank, try to keep it always above 1/4, because the fuel pump is sensitive to low suction conditions. The tank is removed letting it go down to the floor. Take the advantage and perform a full tank cleaning and washing (water and detergent), complete flushing with a Karcher or any other high pressure washer, and finish drying it with a hair drier blowing into each of the two large openings. After meny miles and years, the fuel pump could be replaced, and the old one kept as spare. The new one should endure for 10 more years!

Bad engine and transmission mounts.