my car sputters and lacks power going up hill
Posted by maconaghie on
A plugged air filter, low fuel pressure, etc.The clogged fuel filter and clogged cat.-------
per your problem mentioned, it indicates the problem with fuel
pressure.-------- The fuel pressure is low.---------- First thing you can do is
get the fuel pressure checked, this will confirm the problem. --------- If the
pressure checked low that means problem is with faulty pump and clogged fuel
filter. -------- But if pressure checked ok, then clogged catalytic
conveter is other possibility, also try putting it in a low gear then check , if it works on lower gears, that means transmission gear slipping problem. Check your transmission fluid level it could be low.,.----------Also
another test procedure you can try is, spray starter fluid on the throttle body
and see if car starts and runs fine with starter fluid sprayed.Then it
indicates fuel pump is faulty.--- Do this test when you face this no start
problem.------- This will help.Thanks.Helpmech.
Posted on Jun 24, 2011
it wont come on when the ac and defrost controls are in the off position ive swaped relays checked fuses replaced tempature sensor tested cooling fan it works fine but only comes on when in the ac or defrost position
Posted by Randy... on
if engine at long stand still,the engine temperature will rise about 190 degrees the cooling fan suppose to automaticaly turn on when coolant temperature sensor get hot it cause its resistance decrease causing pcm to send power to coolant fan relays and cooling fans, when you turn on AC the cooling fans suppose to turn on to cool down AC CONDENSOR, IF NOT AC WONT WORK COOLING FAN COOLS DOWN REFRIGERANT SO IT CAN RECYCLE THROUGH THE SYSTEM AGAIN.your cooling is suppose to turn on when engine at a sit still if vechicle not moving as coolant temperature rises at a set point the cooling fans will turn on cool down engine.cooling fans dont turn on when you first cold stsrt vechicle unless you have AC SWITCH ON.if cooling fans dont turn on when vechicle at a long stand still or moving along slow traffic.if coolant temperature sensor been replaced and fuses and relays okay have dealership check see if pcm driver circuit working faulty pcm will cause cooling fans not to turn on.
Posted on Sep 29, 2012
air is blowing hot air,where is the fuse box under te hood for the air compresser
Posted by Guest on
fuse box is on the right side of the dash to the left of the glove box not under the hood.
Posted on Sep 04, 2014
If anyone happens to know what size the head is on the oil pan drain bolt for a 1996 Buick Century 3.1L V6 I'd appreciate the info -- I'm hoping to save myself having to jack up the car an extra time just to check. Thanks!
Posted by Darren... on
Can you not just reach under with a couple of wrenches,
to check to size what fits?
Buy the time you find this site, you could have changed your oil
Posted on Jun 22, 2012
how to change brake pads on a buick century?
Posted by nscrfan88 on
Front brake pads are usually easy to do. Take only one side apart at a time. You will need a big C clamp along with other basic hand tools. After jacking the car up and using the proper safety stands remove the wheels. If you turn the steering wheel so you can get to the back of the brake calipers easier. Now remove the two bolts that hold the calipers to the back of the wheel spindle and carefully take the calipers off. Remove the old pads, pay attention to what pad went where. Take the C clamp of slowly squeeze the piston the caliper in. Remove and replace the rotor at this time. Put the new pads in the calipers and replace the caliper and wheel. Make sure all bolts are tighten! Before trying to drive vehicle make sure you press the brake pedal many times. I hope this helps.
Posted on Oct 26, 2009
I have a 1996 Buick century 3.1L V6 that has recently had the head and manifold gaskets replaced. About a month later the car began to shake and sputter a lot in drive. I noticed it did this mainly in the morning or when it just rained. It would only do this in drive. When I was at stop lights I had to put the car in neutral just so it wouldn't stall out on me. It has of course stalled on me numerous times. So I took it to auto zone and they told me it was a code P1441 EVAP system- No flow during purge cycle. Which i knew right away it is most likely the EGR valve or EGR valve gasket or the EGR pipe gasket. So I went ahead and took off the old gasket which was corroded and replaced it with a new one, both the egr and the pipe. It seemed to be running fine for a while. Then today I went to drive somewhere and it started to stall again. I do not know what else it could be besides a vacuum problem and I do not want to replace a ton of parts hoping thats what it is. And if I take it in they are gonna tell me its all kinds of different things and charge me up the wazoo. I could try replacing the cheaper of the parts until I really have to replace the EGR valve. But I am not sure what else it could be besides the canister or the canister solenoid. Please help me out. Thank you
I work at autozone and as the man said the evap system maybe the fault that can up on the obd 2 code reader but if no ither codes came up then you
can have a problem that is not code related ( as early car 96 to 2000 the service light only covers things that are in the pollution part of the engine..
the newer cars the service engine / malfunction light will come on for many other things
if your egr is not seating on idle then you would stall at a stop if you egr stays closed then your car would be polluting and could not pass e-check
if the car is not running properly and it has a multiport fuel injected system /coilpack system
change the cranksensor ..If you have a distributor
change the pickup coil/ ignition control module
these are both in the distributor...
as long as you have good wires & plugs you should be in good shape
Posted on Mar 08, 2010
How do i get the engine light to go off so i can get my car inspected. I had a test show that it was the P1441.
How can i get this fixed, and how much will it cost??
Posted by rwindchase on
P1441 Evaporative Emission (EVAP) System Flow During Non-Purge
The evap system is your egr valve, carbon canister, pcv valve, gas cap, and fuel tank vent, The most common fix for this problem is a new gas cap and then your done. It is about 15 dollars and then you pass smog. If this has been of any help please reate. Thank you
Posted on Feb 12, 2009
I have a 96 buick century and lately its been overheating, first thing i did was check the coolant, but even after i put it in, the reservoir would be bone dry, and then sometimes, even in the same day completely full. Finally my overheating got so bad that i took it to a mechanic because i couldnt drive more than a few miles without it steaming. i had the intake gasket replaced. that helped but it was still overheating, so next i figured id replace my thermostat, i did that and there was no difference. i checked my radiator cap and the rubber seal was torn so i replaced that, and its a lot better... but it still overheats.
When i accelerate on the highway really fast, it cools back down. but normally it just fluctuates up and down with the occasional 'in the red'. Today i couldnt get it to go back down while driving which i usually can. and i think whatever the reason is for it overheating is getting worse.
I had the same problem with my 96 buick century and it was the intake gasket. The 1990's buicks all have the same problem where the gasket fails after about 100,000 miles. The radiator fluid then starts leaking in with the oil. Check your oil and make sure it is not high. If it is high, then the intake gasket is your problem. They make a special replacement gasket now that does not have the same issue. However, I doubt I'm going to keep mine another 100,000 miles so I just put in the stock gasket. Hope this helps.
Posted on Oct 15, 2008
I have a 96 Olds Cutlass Supreme, 3.1 engine. Behind the block is the evap switch, with 2 hoses coming off the side, and one in the back of switch. Where does the one in the back lead to?
Posted by geeoh311 on
one hose goes to the intake manifold, the other goes to the evap switch,there are two valves, one a purge valve and the other a evap switch,the purge valve has one hose going to the intake and the other hose goes to switch, then then switch has another hose that goes to evap canister,eveh better heres a diagram, hope this helps,
Posted on May 15, 2010
cv boot clamp came off somehow from the outer
cv joint hub connection. need to know is there
any other snap rings to remove in order for me
to remove cv joint besides separating the ball
joint and the thrugh bolt that holds the ball joint in place. and once removed whats proper way to install back.
athere is a snap ring within the CV joint the nedds to be spread OPEN to release CV joint from axle, Once CV is cleaned and repacked with grease rintall onto axle by again spreading apart clamp. Prior to installing CV joint slide NEW CV joint boot onto axle, Cleanly intall add'l grrease and reinstall CV boot.
Posted on Apr 04, 2009
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