Top 20 2002 Mitsubishi Lancer - Page 9 Questions & Answers

Fault code P0441 usually indicates an issue with the Evap Emision Control System Purge Flow. Possible causes are listed below:

1. Bad vacuum switch
2. Broken or damaged EVAP line or canister
3. Open in PCM purge command circuit
4. Open or short in Voltage feed circuit to Purge Solenoid
5. Faulty purge solenoid
6. Restriction in EVAP solenoid, line or canister
7. Corrosion or resistance in purge connector
8. Bad PCM

Hi.Check idle air control system (valve, hoses and wires). Check air intake and check the sensors installed in the air intake. Check vacuum for leaks.Those listed are the most common faults causing fast idle in this type of engine.Regards.Ginko

2002 Mitsubishi Lancer LS 2.0 liter SOHC L4



Hope helps.

Diagnostic Test Code (DTC) P0337 is not a valid code for a 2002 Mitzubishi Lancer. However, if you are using a generic OBD code reader to get this code, there may be another "vehicle specific" crankshaft position sensor code that the code reader does not have a definition for and is rendering it as a P0337.The generic definition for this DTC is "Crankshaft Position Sensor [A] circuit low input". This can be caused by a defective crank sensor, loose or corroded electrical connectors between the crank sensor and the PCM, defective PCM, or mechanical problems that can cause erratic crank sensor signals like timing component problems or bad crankshaft main bearings. In your case, I would think that the noise is causing the crank sensor code. The crank sensor code is not causing the noise. There may be loose timing components that are hitting the crank sensor or something to that effect.

Since it is an "interference" engine, when the timing belt breaks it is possible for the pistons to contact any open valves and either crack/break the piston or bend the valve stem. The only way to rule these things out is to remove the head or use a "bore scope" and look in the cylinders through the spark plug holes. You could install a new belt and then do a compression test, but if it fails then you will have to take it all apart again. Rolling the cam isn't really a good test as any number of valves could be tweaked just enough not to sit flat in the valve seat and leak compression.

Verify the fuse is good. If it is good then check turn signal switch in steering column.

When you turn the key to the "on" position, see if the panel lights come on and try honking the horn too, if everything works it means the battery is fine.Now, turn the key to start the engine. Does the engine just give out a click? If so, the battery terminals may be loose. Tighten the terminals leading to the battery posts with the correct tools and try turning the key once again.

its the airbag light.

Possible some wiring is burning or melting from under the dashboard have it checked again, the smell does it seem like burnt rubber or plastic?
Have it checked since you mentioned that the lights has gone. see the fuses as well just to be sure.
Better get an expert check it to be sure that nothing will be missed on the issue. If it is a wiring issue then the best thing is have the electrical rewired for best results.

Actually no need to remove the transmission to replace the slave cylinder.Ity can be done without removing the transmission.------- Its a complete procedure.Click this link below and follow rhe detailed procedure to replace slave cylinder and much more details for other parts too:---- http://technoanswers.blogspot.com/2011/06/how-to-replace-clutch-slave-cylinder-on.html ------------ This should help.Thanks.Helpmech.

Possible brake switch inoperatrive?

Take it for a service soon then ^^

Pliz try: www.haynes.com

Try this
I dont know which engine you have.

420a
1. Torque all center bolts to 25 ft-lbs, torque the 4 corner bolts to 25 ft-lbs
2. Torque all center bolts to 50 ft-lbs, torque the 4 corner bolts to 50 ft-lbs
3. Re-Torque all center bolts to 50 ft-lbs, re-torque the 4 corner bolts to 50 ft-lbs
4. Tighten all bolts in the sequence from #1-#10 an additional 1/4 turn.

7-Bolt 4G63
1. Torque all bolt to 58 ft-lbs in order
2. Loosen all bolts completely to 0 ft-lbs
3. Torque all bolts to 15 ft-lbs in order
4. Tighten all bolt 1/4 turn in order
5. Tighten all bolts an additional 1/4 turn in order.

ARP Head Studs
1. Tighten all bolts to 40 ft-lbs
2. Tighten in steps of 10 ft-lbs increments until the specified torque that you are looking for is reached. This can vary with the amount of boost you plan on running.

...Check the flat spring that kick the gas cap cover door open, two plastic holding the spring on the either side must missing, try any plastic and glue it there to not lost again and put some lube at the door hinge and the key bolt, they will pop open wide..

Here are some things thats could cause a no start, a bad fuel pump, a bad crank sensor or a can sensor, these are the most common, the coil would be the first thing to check. check and see if you have any spark at the plugs. if your engine doesnt even crank over when you try to start it then i would look at the batttery and then the starter but if the engine is cranking over good and just not starting then check the first things i listed like coil, crank and fuelpump, good day.

P0421....Warm Up Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)

check the heater circuits on the O2 sensors ,the two wires the same colour are the heater wires check across these two for 12v with ignition on and engine running

check under hood left side
or near passenger side floor board

A 2002 (any car) should not be doing any of those things unless the check engine light is on. If that's the case then scan or have the car scanned for codes. If there are codes than they will give an indication as to what components to check. Otherwise the mixture of air/fuel is constantly monitored by the PCM (Power-train Control Module), which through data feedback from various sensors (such as Oxygen, Mass Air, Intake Air temp., Coolant Temp, etc . . .) constantly adjusts for the optimum air to fuel ratio by varying the injector pulse. Therefore no adjustment is necessary as this is all taken care of via a computer. Hope this helps

P0421 - Warm Up Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)
Basically this means that the oxygen sensor downstream of the catalytic converter on bank 1 is detecting that the converter is not working as efficiently as it should be (according to specs). It is part of the vehicle emissions system.

Symptoms: You will likely not notice any drivability problems, although there may be symptoms. The code may be more likely to occur after the engine has had numerous cold starts in the past 1-2 days.

Causes: A code P0421 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:
The catalytic converter is no longer functioning properly
An oxygen sensor is not reading (functioning) properly
A sparkplug is fouled up

Possible Solutions: Measure the voltage at the oxygen sensor on Bank 1 (the rear sensor, or the sensor after the converter). In fact, it would be a good idea to test each oxygen O2 sensor while you're at it.

One thing to note is that many vehicle manufacturers offer a longer warranty on emissions-related parts. So if you have a newer car but it's out of it's bumper-to-bumper warranty, there still may be warranty on this type of problem. Many manufacturers give a five year, unlimited mileage warranty on these items. It's worth checking into.


hope this helps (remember to rate and comment this answer).