20 Most Recent 1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse - Page 8 Questions & Answers

The 1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse has a fuel pump relay, and if that goes, then you wouldn't have power to the fuel pump.

On a 1995 Eclipse, the fuel pump relay is located under the hood, against the firewall right next to the brake fluid and washer tank. There should be 2-4 relays, and the fuel pump is usually the relay closest to the passenger side, or on the left.

Its most likley the water pump....

Hi,

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This is how your problem is solved in my shop. Out of the box, I'd say that you have a problem with the fuel management system. However, there's a good chance that it's something simple and inexpensive like a clogged fuel filter or water in the fuel tank.

My second area of concern would be the manifold pressure sensor which is lactated under the hood, center, rear engine area, above valve cover, mounted in bracket. However, you must remember that these nothing more than starting points and not guaranteed solutions.

First a little background for your edification. You may be aware of all this but we've never done business before and all assumptions are off the table.

For an engine - make that any engine and irrespective of manufacturer - to run, you need three things to happen inside the engine, compression, fuel and ignition, without any one of these components the engine will not run.

• Compression - Engine compression caused by crankshaft rotation and pistons moving up and down inside the engine block. If the timing belt or timing chain fails it will cause the camshaft to become out of correlation with the crankshaft or allow the camshaft to stop rotating. Either of these conditions will cause the engine to lose compression and sometimes cause internal engine damage.
• Fuel Delivery System - The fuel system includes: fuel pump, fuel injectors, pressure regulator, fuel filter and pressure lines. This system is used to supply fuel under pressure to the fuel injection system, the lack of fuel pressure or volume will cause the fuel delivery system to fail and the engine to stall or not start.
• Ignition Spark Delivery System - The ignition system components include: spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor (if applicable), crankshaft angle sensor, camshaft angle sensor, ignition coil, ignition module, knock sensor and PCM (powertrain control module). The engine relies on the ignition spark to be delivered to the combustion camber at the correct time. If the ignition spark stops or is delivered at the wrong time the engine will not run or run poorly.

Whenever your engine cranks but does not start, runs rough, staggers, sags or cuts off, follow this Troubleshooting Guide. Some of these steps require a code scanner. They are costly but AutoZone will loan you one for FREE.

Most vehicles operate by the same principle; basic troubleshooting procedures apply to most cars.

• Step 1: Anytime you have a problem with electronically controlled components such as an engine, transmission, ABS brake, or SRS (supplemental restraint system, Air Bag) inspect all fuses using a test light and check the under hood power distribution center and under dash fuse panels. If all fuses test okay continue to the next step.
• Step 2: To check for problems with electronically controlled components such as an engine, transmission, ABS brake, or SRS (supplemental restraint system, Air Bag) and the fuses test okay a trouble code scan is needed to identify any system trouble. Use a simple scanner tool to retrieve trouble codes and see if they relate to the specific problem, like a crank angle sensor failure code. If the trouble code present does not pertain to the immediate problem like an EVAP code ignore it until a later time, after the car is running.

The reason we repair non-related codes after the engine is running is because sometime false codes can be triggered by the engine not running. Once the engine is running again the code present might cycle and turn itself off. You might say "if the engine doesn't run shouldn't it have a trouble code?" Sometimes conditions occur that will not be detected by the computer, example: if the fuel pump fails the computer cannot detect the failure, so the engine doesn't start and the computer thinks everything is okay with no codes. If no trouble codes are present proceed to the next step.

If you have trouble using the code scanner or interpreting the codes click on the following link and use my access code (carrepair): Free Automotive Repair information for Users of a Code Scanner www.repairpath.com

All the best

Ben

You spent too much money or you have a whole lot more to spend. Bench test your starter beside your car to see if it works not connected to your car. If your car is a standard, push the car in neutral and put it in drive. See if the engine turns over. If you have an automatic, hook a socket to the crankshaft and try to move the pulley. Yes I am saying your engine may not be moving. Keep in touch.

Hi there,

It's important to query your vehicle's computer to determine where the issue/s are.

I have put together an instruction sheet, explaining how this can be done without the use of a scan tool. Try to print the diagram below. When you have extracted your codes, submit your codes here and I will assist further.




Cheers,

Scott


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i suggest you move to the egr valve,replace it.make sure there are NO vacum leaks before the egr vale replacement1st thank you for choosing fixya.com!

WHAT KIND OF RADIO MANUFACTUER MAKE AND TYPE

Everything sounds ok , May want to check your converter?

Hi Vince,
The engine check light should go out after a second or two. Why did you replace the computer? and more important is it the correct replacement? The computers in these vehicles rarely give problems (I won't say never). If it is the correct replacement its more likely that the computer has picked up a fault from a sensor on the vehicle. Have a diagnosis carried out to find out what sensor is giving the problem and have it rectified.
Regards Johngee10

Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) on the transmission is at fault.

I'm assuming you have a turbo engine because the turbo motors don't have a tensioner for the power steering. Just get a prybar or big screwdriver or anything like that. Use it to pry the PS pump toward the front on the car and put tension on the belt. They you can tighten down the bolts to secure it.

check the pipe from the exhaust manifold take off into the air intake and make sure the control is working as it could be this isnt working and its not drawing pre heated air ,in a warm climate it wouldnt matter but if your in alaska in the cold??

What is going on with the car?

Check the cam sensor and the coil packs and the spark controller module.

the boot may be leakin on the coil-inspec for wear--maybe do a pack test also--keep in mind ignition module etc--chilton online has troublshootn

In the rear of vehicle by the fuel tank

This is not a simple fix due to having to remove the timing belt.....if you are not a mechanic, i would not try this one as a do-it-yourself project as it could lead to serious engine damage.....get some experienced help to tackle the job....good luck,

Have you checked the fuel pressure? The fuel pump may be going out.

Hi, listen to hear if your fuel pump is running when you turn the key to the run position. If it is, buy a "noid" light to check if the injectors are firing as you crank the motor.
Work your way back or forward accordingly, depending on what you find.
If the pump isn't running, check the fuel pump, relay and fuse. If it is runing, and injectors aren't firing, check crank and cam sensors. Also, the oil pressure sender can interrupt the fuel flow if it's faulty. If both OK, check the fuel pressure regulator......