Top 20 1998 Mitsubishi Montero Questions & Answers

Question edited for clarity and add maker. Question moved to model category. Yes it is the same vehicle but it will need programming to the vehicle it is going into, VIN Number, Mileage etc. https://www.google.com/search?q=1998+Pajero+vs+1998+Montero https://www.google.com/search?q=auto+electrician+near+me ..

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replace hazard light relay ,and hazard light switch if needed.

I'd check cylinder compression and go from there.

If it was turning over but not starting, you unfortunately wasted money or a battery and starter. There is no magic "fix" button for a vehicle that will not start. You will need to have all stored codes read out from the ECU as a starting point, then proceed with regular diagnostic procedures to find the fault. Change the fuel filter, replace all fuel in the vehicle to rule-out contamination, check the operation of the timing belt, and check for proper pressure at the fuel rail and for spark at all cylinders.

Bank 1 is on the side that cylinder number 1 is on, and 2 is on the other . Look up your firing order and you should find it fairly easily. And sensor 1&2 refers to before or behind catylitic converter.

the bulb is ok? visual check? switch the left and right side bulbs if they're easy to get to hazard light swich on should flash both sides as well... is it doing that? grounding issue on the left. gotta trace the ground wires of the left side and make sure the grounds are not corroded when bolted to the body of the vehicle

With the connector halves close together can you tell which wire goes into the connector? Its probably the same color, but check anyway. Once you are sure you can follow that one back to where it comes from and check for power How was the horn kit wiring harness installed? Was it patched in? Did it have its own wiring harness? Trying to figure out how that kit could have had any effect on the starter. When the key is on do you have accessory power?

Sounds like a broken tie rod. Tow truck time.

sounds like a blown main fuse. follow the positive cable from the battery to the fuse box. There should be a main fuse there, test to see if you have power on both sides. if not - bad fuse. also look at the cables and see if they're tight to the battery, and not rotted.

check the fusible link under the bonnet normally close to the battery . They are normally like a ceramic block about 6 together and you should be able to see in the top if they are good or not.

The unit probably has a vacuum system to disconnect the 4wd at the front axle. When you disconnect the transfer box this vacuum disconnects the front diff so the drive shaft does not turn continuously. Check the vacuum tube sometimes breaks.

If you have a timing belt on the engine it is a good bet that there is a belt that also drives the oil pump. Have you done anything to the motor like a rebuild. Missing/loose oil pick up pipe. Pump not primed before fitting. The oil goes first to the filter for cleaning before going to the rest of the engine so your problem will be in the pump drive or pick up area. Have you put oil in the sump.?

there is a code table here: code tablehope it can help you and good luck

Hi,Please take a look at below link.The pdf will help you to locate your engine number.http://www.perkins.com/cda/files/287332/7/engine_number_guide_english%20issue5.pdf

Engine stalling and rough run issue at low speeds

This problem is commonly caused by a dirty automatic idle speed control valve and throttle valve. Buy a can of throttle valve cleaner (do not use carburetor spray cleaner!) from NAPA or Carquest (made by CRC chemicals) and spray it into the air intake while the engine is running, use up about 1/2 the can, engine will try to stall hold the speed up, shut it down and let it soak for 30 minutes, restart and blow out the remaining fluid, shut it down and disconnect the negative battery cable for 5 Min's to reset the base idle control

HelloThe engine and transmission in this cars drive train are fully electronically controlled by a computer called the PCM (Power Train Control Module). Whenever a problem like this occurs the computer stores a record of the problem (there are of course some exceptions to this, like the fuel pump for instance) in the form of a fault code in its memory, to read these fault codes you must have the systems memory scanned with a special tool. Once the fault code(s) are read you then must perform the appropriate diagnostic testing to find and resolve the problem(s) DO NOT REPLACE ANY PARTS UNTIL THE DIAGNOSIS & TESTING IS COMPLETED.

You'll have to take the radio out and get the serial number/model number and call the mitsubishi dealer and then they will give you the code. You can no longer give them the vin number. Hope this helps.

If memory serves you will need to have the dealership (or darned good mechanic for a Mitsubishi) to electronically "reset" (reboot) your Modulator Interface (I don't know the Mitsubishi name for this part). In other words, you need a "car geek"? lol... Good luck!

I would suggest getting a new bolt and put loctite on the treads. It comes in 2 different kinds. One is if you need something like an imoact if you remove in the future the other is just basic and locks it but you are able to remove by hand in the future. I would use the heavy duty stuff is I were you, Also in the motormite section (the packages are red and say "Help" on them) carry's a thread sealant which is ok but i would go with the loctite since there may be some damge to the tread on the crank since it has come out a few times. I hope this helps and good luck.