1988 Mitsubishi Cargo - Page 3 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

my guess is the transmission is shot and needs a rebuild or replacemen. had this happen to 2 cars and the trans broke the pully rings inside.

it is same metal valve allow to open and close contacting the nose cam at the cam shaft

my mitsubishi fv547 2000mdl truck engine 6d24 has oil coming out of brether pipe

valve clearance for mitsubishi canter 4d34

head gasket gone.

ON THE DASH

I think one of the drivers has had a tipple too many and hit something hard and kept quite ,being a old hand on fleet vehicles from skip lorries to catapilar dozers i have seen many things including bent axles and this is common on trucks that visit offroad sites and get stuck then pulled out with a dozer and a chain around the axle instead of the two spring hanger brackets .twisted 8 wheeler chassis ,bumpers pulled off and tippers on their side where the back doors havent been tied back or just sunk without trace in wet conditions over the tip ,

duplicate question.

Propeller shaft allignment, check bearing of rear end transmission and diff.bearing.

ok look, I can't draw, I tried. Feel gratefull, I had to break parts of the car just find this out!To do this you need to remove the headlight assembly, much the same as you'd do if you had to replace the whole assembly because of a crash.

1. Remove small panel that runs under headlights and around the side car. NOTE: The indicator plastic light box (the whole thing) is actually a part of this seemingly small panel.* Inside the car, behind the door, near the hinge* 2 of them under the headlight, in the small gap between headlight and bumper (good luck mine were rusted and I had to forcefully remove the small panel.
2. Now you will see 2 bolts holding the headlight assemply in place, undo them
3. There is also a bolt UNDER the headlight assembly, remove it. Now the assembly is not attached to the car (other than by the electrical wires). I had to remove the whole bumper to find this out. When putting it all back together I didn't pay enough attention to note if that bottom bolt was accesible without removing the bumper. I am pretty sure it would be but may require some mechanical acrobatics.
4. Now that the assembly is out you can unscrew the 2 large plastic caps on the back to access the bulbs (this is much the same as in the few modern sedans I have had to change light bulbs in). There is also a smaller screw in type plastic bulb holder I believe this was the parking light.
5. There are 3 bulbs, I am assuming you have the ability to actually disconnect and remove them, if not maybe you sould be paying an auto electrician or a friend to do this.

NOTES:

1. The issue I had was how to access the bulbs, it was not obvious to me, I expected that no immediate rear access would have made the bulb change occur on the OUTSIDE behind the glass, not removing the whole bloody head light assembly.
2. Mine was an old 1992 piece of ****, breaking bolts and stuff if need be was fine by me as it would have still been road worth but having no headlight is not.
3. On a 20 percent off store wide day I bought the following items from Supercheap Auto in Austraalia for about $26.00
4. 1 x Headlight Bulb
5. 1 x High Beam Bulb
6. 1 x 2 pack parker bulb
7. 1 x 2 pack interrior light bulb.
8. 1 x Single 14mm socket ($4 to replace one I have been missing for ages)
9. The point of the above list is that it is bloody cheap :D

Tools Used:

1. 10mm Socket (headlight assembly and or bumper bar)
2. 12mm Socket (headlight assembly and or bumper bar)
3. Philips (star) head screw driver I don't know the sizes. (indicator panel, number plate, buttom of bumper bar underneath each side door)
4. Rachet from a socket set, and a small extender bar.
5. All of the above is probably posible with only open/closed ended spanners, i wouldn't want to try it though :D
6. Any additional tools I used certainly wouldn't be required if you knew what you were doing when you started :D But it was fun!

- Ian McLean

That truck should utilize a air/hydraulic brake system, check on the master cylinder assembly(s). Usually on outside of vehicle. They put it here because they only want it to trip when there is actual hydraulic pressure being acquired.

go on line on internet look on ebay or look on internet for mitsubishi parts manual you should be able to find one.you can go to dealership try to order one.it will cost you. i have seen parts manual cost about $100.00

if the inside is corroded then take some sandpaper and clean terminals or just replace--moisture may be gitten to it-so investigate

Hi

Here is a links from where you can go for parts:-

http://www.staufferdiesel.com/

http://www.engnetglobal.com/c/c.aspx/par017/productdetail/par017_mitsubishi

Please get back to us if you have further query else please accept the suggestion.

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Hi Sarah, I'm guessing that the pump you removed is the diesel injector pump. I'm continuing with that assumption. When you removed the pump to attend to the seal did you set it to the match marks which are on the pump housing and the front of the engine where the pump fits in? Timing a diesel engine is shall we say, tricky. I think before we proceed let me know exactly what job you carried out on your vehicle? Describe it tome in detail and then we'll go from there.
Regards Johngee10

is this a car? i can not find it in any repair manuals. i would like to help but i need more info

ebay