2001 Mercedes-Benz C-Class - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

https://www.carstereocode.com/unlock.php?mk=26

I have a 2001 C240 with the same issue. I removed the positive battery cable from the battery and kept it off for 30 seconds then replaced it. Everything was reset and the key worked.

I am driving a Mercedes E200Cgi. The dashboard gives me a red signal that says stop violent switch of engine
Thanks
Selloane

A couple of different possibilities here but this is a typical problem when it comes to the MB cd changers. Before ruling the cd changer bad, check the spring settings on the sides of the changer. Make sure they are in the 'H' position since it sits in the glovebox. The Mercedes cd changers don't have a reset button. 95% of the time its the cd changer that is bad when this scenario happens. Its caused by a linkage that gets knocked out of place internally of the cd changer. Also try not to use burned or homemade cd's as they can also cause the cd changer not to read the discs anymore.If your cd changer is brand new or a factory rebuild then the dealer should change it out no problem since MB cd changers are known for this problem. Also the version coding needs to done to configure the D2B fiber optic ring properly.

hello,hoping they right,maybe your front sam is switching a electrical consumer,even your ignition key is out,resulting your battery drain,if possible ,request your dealer a print out regarding front sam actual values and specified values for your reference,ty

Go to Advance Auto or Auto Zone and ask them to read the error codes. Then lookup those codes on the Internet or post them on https://mbworld.org/

Get this manual online at www.reliable-store.com and get complete guide on whether to repair or not, service it, and how to repair etc, along with wiring diagrams, electrical diagrams, torque specs, error codes, everything.

it could be a number of things. oil pressure switch, fuel pump relay or fuse. fuel pressure switch/regulator. something like this would help you find the fault https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mercedes-Benz-MB-OBD2-CAN-BUS-Fault-Code-Reader-Scanner-diagnostic-scan-tool-UK/221097686022 just to read the fault codes.

could be the boost sensor in intercooler system,,, or turbo actuator sticking

indications are that they are hard starting when cold indicates a problem ambient temp sensor or BARO sensor These sensors report to the ECM so that the correct air/fuel mixture is set for cold starting and running---sort of like the old fashioned choke pull have the fault codes read to determine where the faulty sensor is

indicates a fuel pump problem as that is the only thing in that area that is ignition controlled or possibly the EVAP system solenoid/ valve if it is in that area the frequency will be constant as the pump rpm is constant the noise could be a venting noise from the EVAP in in that area the distance of 15 km indicates that the problem is heat related as it take that long for something to over heat and cause the noise you may get an indicator by running the fault code

Follow normal troubleshooting procedures. Do It Yourself Diagnosis and Repair

Hi Tommy Parry, not totally sure on your problem but would suspect the heater core which is a radiator device inside the passenger compartment. The hot engine water is feed through the fire wall into the heater core when you select heat on the heater. either the heater core is leaking which is an expensive repair or the pipes maybe rubber pipes have a hole in them and checking them in the engine bay especially the hose clamps in the engine bay where the hoses are feed into the passenger compartment may be a starting point.

You may have a draw in the car. Will it jump start? Do It Yourself Diagnosis and Repair

The first thing you do is have the engine control module scanned for fault codes. I also suggest you buy a can of spray throttle valve cleaner and clean the throttle valve and the idle speed control valve.

• B1025 Component B48 (Front Passenger Seat Occupied and Child Seat Recognition) is faulty

Hi,becouse the lot isnt working I would say at a gess mind you that it could be a brake in the wireing loom,if there is it could be where it goes from the body into the door,you will have to take the door card off and get a screwdriver with a light in it with a wire and crocadile clip,and see if the light lights up when you put it to something that should have power when switched on and working,try the window motor first,if it dosnt have power see if there is power at the switch on the wire side to the window motor the falt wont be in the when window switch is prest if there is power then like I sied before ther must be a brake in the wire loom,if there is no power try checking for power on the other side off the window switch then the falt wont be in the loom,hope this was some help,all the best

Check and see if rear brake lights are not working. If not working brake pedal switch id defective. Do Not go to dealer for repair. The will charge you over $100 for diagnostics and over $200 to replace switch. Go to reliable parts store purchase after market switch for between $16 and $35. Go to a local mechanic and have him put it in for you, labor will be about 1/2 hour or less. There is a small "door" located near the gear shift indicator on the console. It is about as large as a standard ball point pen. Using a ball point pen, insert it through the spring loaded door and gently pushing straight down while pressing on the brake pedal, you can now move gear shift lever out of part into reverse, neutral or drive. You will need to repeat this process until you replace the brake pedal switch.

Is their transmission fluid in their? Maybe a fault with the Transmission Control Board and Electronic Shift Module. may have to replace it.Sometimes the trans. leaks fluid on the module and ruins the circuits. If it's an auto transmission try If you have a late model c-class/clk and you can't shift it out of Park (P), try this... Open up the armrest/ storage compartment in the centre console, behind the gear shifter. Pull out the black liner thing at the front of the compartment. You should now see a hole in the front wall of the compartment where you just pulled the liner out. insert a suitably sized ***** driver until you feel it stop on something inside the hole. Now, grab the gear lever and pull it out of park while at the same time pushing the ***** driver against the thing that stopped it. This should activate the emergency release allowing you to drive the car but be warned, if you don't take the car to a garage to get the problem fixed then you will have to do this every time you want to drive the car.

It is a body control module