The fuse is located in the instrument panel fuse box. I have a picture of its location below. You have to open the passenger door to be able to see the cover. Below is also a diagram of the fuse layout and the fuse you want is the one marked "CIGAR LTR". It's in the 6th row up and the 6th one over from the left. This should be in your owners manual if you have one. If you don't and would like a copy, email me at [email protected] with your make, model and year. I will be happy to email you a copy & don't worry there is no cost for it. I hope this helps and good luck.
Contacts inside where the bulb attains its energy from need to be inspected. Burnt contacts are very common on these vehicles ie: the power that is present does not have a complete circuit path to make it through the load (bulb)
Time to wander through the spaghetti of wires and contacts with voltmeter looking for a closed circuit to ground. Sounds like the radio is where to start.
If the engine has an overhead camshaft it is possible the valve timing is incorrect and that should be the first thing to check followed by compressions and a cylinder leakage check -carelessness during reassembly could damage the valves.
Once you are certain the engine is in good order and properly timed it would be wise to ensure the fuel pressures and delivery volume are correct and no forgotten rags are still plugging the intake.
If the head gasket failure was total and the engine drank all of the coolant you should suspect the CAT might be strangling the flow of exhaust gas and if that is the case it won't have done the oxygen sensor much good either...
You need to eliminate the possibilities.
Will jumper cables get it running? You may have a weak battery.
If the car makes a GRR GRR sound, the problem is either a weak battery or bad solenoid.
Check the solenoid: http://www.wikihow.com/Test-a-Starter-Solenoid
When the ignition switch is faulty, the engine will keep cranking while the dashboard lights stay off.
When a starter fails or malfunctions, you may hear a clicking noise when turning the key in the ignition. But there might be loose wiring around the starter. Eliminate that possibility. Here is advice on starter troubleshooting:
http://www.type2.com/bartnik/starter.htm
I suspect the problem is the starter but here are other matters to test.
Does the car have gas? Check the fuel gauge.
The fuel pump: a weak fuel pump or failed fuel pump relay may prevent the fuel from reaching the engine. If you listen closely, you should be able to hear the in-tank pump running for a few seconds when you first turn the key to the "on" position - before cranking the starter.
Check the spark plugs --a relatively rare source of the problem but they are usually changed at least every 100000 miles.
Is the car in park and your foot pushing in the break? Some modern cars will not start otherwise.
To know for sure you need to do parasitic draw testing ! Not looking for a magical fix on here . has anyone ran into any issues that may cause drain, like glove box light switch etc,???? In my thrity years of repairing vehicles have seen a lot of thing's cause this problem .Back in the 80's when i first started at chevy dealer saw glove boxes stuff full ,to the point light would stay on . These day's more like a module not powering down when it's suppose to. Hooking up a amp meter between the neg. battery post and neg. cable an checking amp draw. If it's over 80 miliamps you have a draw on the electrical system. Pulling fuse's till the draw goes away . find what all that fues powers and isolate the different circuits till the draw goes away . That's kind of the long way now a days . There is a much easier way ,voltage drop testing accross the fuse's .
The BEST Way TO Perform Parasitic Draw TestHow To Perform Parasitic Draw Test EricTheCarGuy
I wouldn't think that two transmissions would have the same bad 2-3 shift solenoid . Probably a wiring problem or the driver (transistor ) in side the control module . Do you know how to do automotive electrical testing ? Find the PCM - powertrain control module , then looking at a wiring diagram find the circuit from the PCM to the transmission wiring connector . An check the circuit ! Free wiring diagrams at http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html Enter vehicle info. year , make , model and engine size . Under system click on transmission/ transaxle , subsystem transmission controls . Click the search button then the blue link .The first diagram shows 2-3 shift solenoid electrical circuit from PCM connector 2 - pin 44 to the trans. connector - C 113 pin B . Check for a open in the wire ,if no open check to see if the PCM driver is supplying a ground . Videos on youtube show how to test this .
How to test computer transistor driver without scan tool
Bad mass air flow sensor maybe ! But that would be just a guess , Any number of sensors on your vehicle has the capability of breaking down when heated up . Taking the vehicle to a repair shop that has a professional type scan tool that can view engine sensor data while the problem is happening . They would be able to see sensor data drop out , go erratic etc... It's a lot better then replacing parts that don't fix the problem . There are videos on youtube showing how to test mass air flow sensor's and all the others , if you would like to go that route. Check out scanner Danner video's . He is a teacher and a professional Tech . Plus you can ask him questions .
1st try a different bulb, make sure its a working bulb, If the test light is blinking & u have a good ground it has to be the connection from the bulb to socket.
