20 Most Recent 1991 Ford Mustang - Page 6 Questions & Answers

if its hydraulic then adjuster is under the car if a cable it may be auto adjust on the pedal ,but some fords done away with this and their is a allen key headed bold on the pedal shaft about half way up the pedal

Here is the best source for DIY info and includes detailed electrical diagrams:
'91 Ford Mustang

It's located in the rear of the vechicle, just in front of the fuel tank.

it sounds like the problem is in the switch or relay. the circuit is not opening when the power is turned off.

It is a complicated process that can be difficult for a novice. There are many manuals that can be purchased that show step by step instructions. I recommend checking out a Mustang supplier for these manuals. Try Mustangsunlimited.com they are good guys and I buy alot of parts from them.

Possible cause, the cable is loose at the trans. This will make the cable turn and stop turn and stop, making the needle jump. OR the cable end that fits into the trans. is worn round should be square check out this possibility. Repost if need more.

the fuel injectors are fired by computer producing a ground signal to them. so its unlikely they are fireing at once.possible power supplie problem but that would cause no injector pulse.beings how the engine was just replaced i would go over every wire and all grounds to make sure they are not shorted or pinched under a manifold or something.if you pull the plugs and they are black then you are getting to much gas. in wich case i would check to see if the fuel pressure regulator diaphram may be ruptured.if you take off the vacuum hose to it and look for moisture from gasoline. or leave hose off and try to start it if gas squirts out that regulator is bad and needs replacement

no the tank must be dropped, it is a very easy job even on the ground, about 2 hours.

use a big vice ,but take the circlips out first,if no circlips holding the cups then take to a engineers shop to have the groves cut in

Hello abtm2005: My name is Roger and I will help you. The fuel pump on this car is located in the fuel tank. Best accessed from a hoist for height reasons. Should you need further help please just ask. Please rate the answer. This way I know it was helpful. THank You for using Fix Ya. Roger

There can be a misfire too from the cylinders.

An engine that hesitates, stumbles or misfires when accelerating or when it is under load is an engine that is either sucking too much air, not getting enough fuel or misfiring. If the Check Engine Light comes on, you may find any of the following codes:

• P0171, P0174 Lean fuel condition codes
• P0120 to P0124 Throttle position sensor codes
• P0222 to P0229 Throttle position sensor codes
• P0400 to P0409 EGR related codes

If there are no misfire codes, a common cause of acceleration stumble is a bad throttle position sensor (TPS). The TPS tells the computer how far the throttle is open. The computer uses this information to determine how much fuel is needed to maintain the correct air/fuel mixture and when extra fuel is needed if the throttle suddenly opens wide.

Another common cause is dirty fuel injectors. If varnish deposits have built up in the tips of the injectors, they won’t spray as much fuel as they normally do, or will “dribble” fuel instead of spraying a fine mist. This creates a lean fuel mixture and conditions that are ripe for stumble and hesitation (also misfire). Look at short term fuel trim (STFT) and long term fuel trim (LTFT) with your scantool. If the numbers are high, it tells you the engine is running lean and the injectors need cleaning. Treat mild cases with a high quality fuel-injector cleaner additive. Severe cases require professional cleaning equipment.

Also if this sensors apply to your vehicle, camshaft sensor or crankshaft sensor if sensors bad you don't get any spark.

Good luck and rate this solution, please.

Hi - sorry you're having a problem

To change the KEY Ignition will come with step by step instructions

2 - To change the ELECTRICAL Ignition [ symptoms being -having to 'jiggle' the ignition to get the fan to come on] to have to move the key CAREFULLY to get the engine to start.

If this is it - then you will need to replace the electrical switch - this is at the BOTTOM of the steering wheel column and requires a lot more expertise. If it is the bottom unit please come back and I will walk you through that one.

I hope this is what you needed for help - if I have helped in any way please vote me up -
thanks

RICESKI

Sorry to hear you're having trouble with your mustang.

Let's try something simple

1- replace the air filter
2 replace the spark plugs
3- replace the spark plug wires.
4- replace the fuel filter

With no more information this is the most likely combination of problems.

Best of luck - please vote me well -
Thanks
RICESKI

You have to pull the inside trim off to get access to the nuts that hold the 1/4 glass in place.

I better way of attacking your problem is to tape off the molding and paint it still attached to the car. I have done this several times with very good results.

if it is a standard transmission you buy a flywheel. if its an auto, you buy a flexplate.

Its your rear main seal leaking. Have to pull the tranny to replace

Are you using the old belt or a new one? Just make sure the belt is the right one. There is only one right way to route the belt. There should be a diagram of the belt routing on the fan shroud or hood. If you can't find it, I've had some luck doing an internet search for the right routing diagram.

oil plug on the side of block for turbo or no

the most likely thing to cause this if the coil packs test ok good is the ignition control module, has the module been replaced? here is a picture so u can ID it. also u don't say if u have any ignition system fault codes, u need to run the test to see if there are any in memory of ECU. here is a link that shows you how to run a code test, don't replace any parts until u run the test and read the code definition's

http://check-engine-light-codes.blogspot.com/2006/04/ford-1985-95-obd1-code-self-retrieval.html

You check the right firing order?

1991 Ford Mustang 2.3 liter SOHC L4





1991 Ford Mustang 5.0 liter V-8 HO



Also, need check the PCM for someone short; sometimes this is the reason it wasn't sending a signal to the coil. You have constant power at the coil but the ground signal doesn't fluctuate from on to off while the engine is cranking. If the hall effects switch in the distributor is bad it won't tell the PCM when to fire the coil and the hall effect switch also operates the tachometer. So if this switch is bad the tach and the coil would not work.

Good luck.