20 Most Recent 2005 Chevrolet Equinox - Page 9 Questions & Answers

Rear Drums & shoes should be changed at the same time. The same goes for the front pads & rotors. Usually the drums & rotors are pre-cut but I ask at the counter if they need cutting because I have ended up with uncut squealers once or twice and found the drum needed to be re-cut due to minute warp-age. If the grinding is the same as before the brakes were changed then all th e brakes need changing not just the ones you thought needed it. Quiet pads & brakes have a beveled edge instead of an abrupt 90 degree angle. Ceramics tend not to squeak. As for un-glazing, in the old days we ran 60 grit sand paper along the wear surface until it was sufficiently scuffed to stop the squeal. It didn't work for very long & usually the squeal worked itself out with wear in a week or 2. good luck.

3rd brake lights are usually just held with 1 or 2 screws.if the clip or plastic it screws into is stripped,you can usually find a used part pretty cheap.it may just need to be screwed down.the metal clips may be found at a hardware store.

There is a video of this change out of the filter for the cabin.

could be a tire out of balance, bent rim or a belt separation in the tire causing the vibration.

Maybe a stuck relay or bad headlamp switch ! You may have a DTC - diagnostic trouble code stored in the BCM - body control module ! These codes do not turn on the check engine light ! There could be a yellow wrench symbol on the instrument cluster or a service vehicle soon light or a message in the message center if yours has one ! You would need a professional grade scan tool to check for codes in the BCM ! DTC B2578 Headlamp Relay Control Circuit High. DTC B2577 Headlamp Control Circuit Low. DTC B2575 Headlamp Control Circuit ! If no codes were found you would need to do some tests ,such as these . If no codes Headlamp Low or High Beams Always On test 2

1. Ensure that the ambient light sensor is receiving enough light to simulate daylight conditions.
2. Place the headlamp switch in the OFF position.
3. Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.
4. Turn OFF the ignition.

Do the headlamps operate normally? Go to Testing for Intermittent Conditions and Poor Connections in Wiring Systems Go to Step 3 3 Are the headlamps ON with the ignition key ON, and then turn OFF when the ignition key is placed in the OFF position? Go to Step 4 yes Go to Step 5 no 4 Test the headlamp relay control circuit of the body control module (BCM) for a short to ground. Refer to Circuit Testing and Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems. Did you find and correct the condition? Go to Step 15 yes Go to Step 10 no 5 Disconnect the headlamp relay. Refer to Relay Replacement in Wiring Systems. Do the headlamps turn OFF? Go to Step 8 yes Go to Step 6 no 6 Disconnect the headlamp switch connector. Do the headlamps turn OFF? Go to Step 7 yes Go to Step 11 no 7 Test the headlamp relay output circuit of the headlamp relay for a short to ground. Refer to Circuit Testing and Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems. Did you find and correct the condition? Go to Step 15 Go to Step 9 8 Inspect for poor connections at the harness connector of the headlamp relay. Refer to Testing for Intermittent Conditions and Poor Connections and Connector Repairs in Wiring Systems? Did you find and correct the condition? Go to Step 15 Go to Step 12 9 Inspect for poor connections at the harness connector of the headlamp switch. Refer to Testing for Intermittent Conditions and Poor Connections and Connector Repairs in Wiring Systems. Did you find and correct the condition? Go to Step 15 Go to Step 13 10 Inspect for poor connections at the harness connector of the BCM. Refer to Testing for Intermittent Conditions and Poor Connections and Connector Repairs in Wiring Systems. Did you find and correct the condition? Go to Step 15 Go to Step 14 This mite be a problem you would want to leave to a ASE certified Technician who has the tools an knowledge ! Probably could be fix in less then an hour !

The Throttle Actuator Control system is inside the PCM - powertrain control module - brainbox as you call it . The APP - The accelerator pedal contains 2 individual accelerator pedal position (APP) sensors within the assembly. The APP sensors 1 and 2 are potentiometer type sensors each with 3 circuits , they are inputs to the PCM from which the PCM controls the throttle body motor ,opening an closing the throttle plate ! So what problem are you having ? You would need special tools to program modules - google J2534 programming tool an go to GM web site an see what it cost for programming info . So what TIS2Web GM Diagnostic Software ACDelco TechConnect

RT/SIG fuse #11 15amp - I/P fuse box . Fuse Block - I/P In the center of the instrument panel, beneath the right side of the radio, in back of the right side console access panel. This fuse is power to the BCM , When you put on the right turn signal , this is a voltage signal to the BCM . With logic ( programming ) the BCM then controls the turn signal ! Turn Signal/Hazard Lamps The body control module (BCM) is responsible for controlling the turn signals and hazard lamps. When the turn signal switch is placed in either the left turn or right turn position, the BCM receives a signal from the turn signal switch. The BCM then sends an on-off voltage signal to either the left or right turn signals and their instrument panel cluster (IPC) indicator. When the hazard switch is pressed, the BCM receives a signal from the hazard switch. The BCM then will send an on-off voltage signal to all the turn signal lamps. All the turn signal lamps will flash including both IPC turn signal indicators. There could be a DTC- diagnostic trouble code stored in the BCM pointing to the problem ! I suggest you take your vehicle to the dealer or a ASE certified repair shop that has the diagnostic tools to find the problem . Just so you don't waste your money replacing parts that don't fix it. There could

this happened to me I had a 2006 and what I did was to get over and shut it off, I waited, then I restarted it only check engine light was on I was able to get home, next day took it to dealer, said that a module had gone bad, they replaced it , it worked ok after that, I later sold it ,thinking it might happen again

need to hook scanner see what codes are , cause all cars are drive by wire instead of cable, so u have accelerator sensors on your pedal and electric throttle body

replace the line,hook the new line to the top and pull through to the bottom

Two possibilities: 1. The switches in the A/C system aren't turning it on, or 2. The fan fails to run when it has power due to blown motor. To test find the motor to the fan and pull the power plug off it and make a fused jumper wire fused to the fuse size in the system test run the motor directly with power from the battery. IF the fan fails to run it is the fan motor, if it runs than, it is the A/C system controls that failed.

Possibly the spare key was mis-keyed so you may have to have another spare key made after you get original key by using a locksmith to open door. I had an older chevy that I had a spare key made at a Home Depot that would only work in one position. The top and bottom of the key should be cut identically to original. Also some new spare keys need to be reprogramed with the car's security system to work in the ignition. Owners manual will show you how to reprogram it yourself.

I believe it is on the tail shaft of the transmission. It should have a two or three wire connection on it. It sends a signal to the speedometer. Hope this helps

No.... Install and plug it in. It will work fine if that is what is needed to correct your problem

regarding chevy equinox spoiler there are three 10mm bolts one on each end and one in the middle then there are three pins in the middle that snap in. these are very difficult to release without breaking them. If they break use a two part adhesive sparingly to hold the spoiler down or it will hit when you open the hatch.

Blower motor may b worn or fuse. If u replace it..do the same w the heatercore and evaporator since theyr in the area...if vehicle has low miles then dont sweat

You can just add some urethane to secure the weather stripping. If the windshield is ever replaced, they'd simply remove the stripping anyways. Depending on the urethane, there may be different cure times, but it will do the trick. Alternatively, the weather stripping will not affect the seal of the windshield so even if you prefer to remove it, there won't be any issues.

it just screws out 17mm spanner i think, added a schematic for easier locatation

Possible defective temperature sensor or wiring issue. Check to see if the heat coming out of the vents stays at a constant temperature when this problem is happening. If it goes from hot to warm/cold when the temp guage is messing up, you may have a head gasket isssue developiing