20 Most Recent 2001 BMW 3 Series - Page 9 Questions & Answers

1 press and hold the button on the ls face of the intrument cluster,
2 while still holding the button turn the key to posistion on
3 after about 15 seconds the reset indicator shouold come up in center of the cluster
4 release the button then press and hold again,it should reset

If you are shy of the mechanics work taking it apart, you can super impose a replacement over the broken glass with clear silicone as an adhesive.

Have the Idle Air Control circuit checked. Cleaning throttle body bore and plate may help also.

Loose wires somewhere

Hi there:When the light comes on, one or more diagnostic trouble codes (DTC) are stored in the engine control module. These DTCs remain even if the light goes out. To address a Check Engine Light problem, the DTCs are retrieved and the appropriate troubleshooting information is followed in order to determine the problem.The Four Most Common Check Engine Light Scenarios and What to Do:* The Check Engine Light turns on and off or flickers.If the Check Engine Light comes on in the city but goes off on the freeway, then the fault is present during city driving conditions. Pay attention to whether or not the vehicle runs or drives any differently when the Check Engine Light illuminates. If vehicle performance does change, drive the car as little as possible and take it to be checked by a service professional as soon as possible. If there is no change in vehicle performance, you can drive home, but have it inspected as soon as possible. In this condition, you run a risk of the vehicle dying or not starting.* The Check Engine Light comes on and stays on.If the Check Engine Light illuminates constantly during driving with no noticeable driving or performance problems, there is a permanent fault in the emission control system. When this happens, the computer that controls the emission system usually has a backup program that runs while the fault is present. (These backup programs are often referred to as "limp home" mode programs.) You should get the vehicle serviced as soon as possible, but in most cases, the vehicle will continue to operate, though you run a risk of it dying or not starting.* The Check Engine Light illuminates, stays on, and there are performance problems.This means that a vital component of your emission control and engine management system has a serious problem. It usually involves a component or system needed for the vehicle to run at all. In most cases, drive the vehicle as little as possible. In many cases, the vehicle is not safe to drive at all -it could stop or stall out at any moment. It is best to pull over to a safe place and have the vehicle towed to an automotive diagnostician for a thorough inspection and repair.* The Check Engine Light light comes on and blinks in a steady pattern while driving.Don't confuse this steady pulsing of the Check Engine Light light (usually one or more flashes per second) with a flicker (see above). The Check Engine Light may stay on steadily or it may flash when the vehicle is accelerated. This is very serious. There is a severe failure of the emission control system that is causing the engine to misfire to the point that the catalytic converter is damaged each time the Check Engine Light flashes. It may mean that the catalytic converter is overheating to the point that it will glow red or, in extreme cases, start a fire on the underside of the vehicle. Immediately pull over to a safe place and have your vehicle towed to an automotive diagnostician for repair. Vehicles can be severely damaged and even destroyed by fire if this condition is ignored for too long.Hope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback is important and I`ll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment about this answer.Thank you for using FixYa, have a nice day.

Fuse, wiring, starter, security, ignition switch. Just to name a few. It needs to be on a scanner to find codes. You can throw away several hundreds of dollars replacing good parts.

1) Lift blade and clean with washer fluid on rag. 2) lift blade clean with Fantastic or similar on edge with rag. 3) Bend wiper arm slightly to put pressure on window from blade. 4) Change blade.

Sounds like you need a new Handbrake mechanism as the teeth that the lock locks against are worn out, a handy hint to all drivers is when applying the hand brake is to try and reframe from letting the lock ride up the teeth making the ratchiting type sound as this causes wear to the teeth and rather hold the button in while applying the handbrake.

have a look around here http://www.steelseal.co.uk/head-gasket-repair/how-to-repair-a-head-gasket

at the top of the manifold. three wires going to it. usually held in by 2 phillips head screws, sometime allen head.

Hi. This is a common fault with m50/52/52tu engines. Engine is flooded because you did not warm it up. Must be out of blue on temp gauge be for you turn off.