20 Most Recent 2003 Volkswagen Passat - Page 9 Questions & Answers

Check car manual,call dealer to unlock

Hi, depending on engine fitted it is most likely the cam chain tensioner has collaped or failed. On a twin cam engine like a 1.8 t or a 32 valve V6 there is a chain driving a second chain in the rear of the cylinder head. These chains are tensioned by a oil pressure pressurized piston pushing on a bridge under the chain.If it collapses, the chain/s become very loose and you will hear a loud clacking noise. It can also collapse due to low oil pressure.VW is familiar with this problem and the repair involves first checking oil pressure, cold thro' warm. If it is around 85 to105 psi cold and 28 to 35 psi warm at idle, then this indicates tensioner piston is faulty or tensioner guide has broken off.If oil presssure is good and engine is running synthetic oil...as it should ...then tensioneris suspect. I have also seen these engines with the screen under the tensioner partly blocked . If on removal of valve cover prooves tensioner has collapsed or guide shoe broken or warn then a new tensioner must be installed. If oil pressure is too low at under 12 psi at warm idle then oil pump is worn and/or engine is worn. Also low oil pressure can be caused by fuel in the oil making it very thin.If the screen under the tensioner is partly plugged up, then the oil pan must also be removed and cleaned out otherwise plugging will happen again.To remove and install the tensioner a SST ( Special Service Tool.) is required to compresse the tensioner piston to allow it to be removed from under the cam chain and again compressing the new tensioner to be installed. Cams or chain do not need removing on this job.Most import shops can handle this as long as they are equipped with the SST tensioner tool.

This does not make sense. The turbo is driven by exhaust gasses. I think you are referring to the thermo switch on the radiator. The car can be switched of and the fan will still run till it reach temprature and then only will it switch off.

yes you can I did try "autopartswharehouse.com" really good prices and return policy too,Gary

If the car is running rough, then try to unplug the connector from each coil. If the coil is good, then the engine will run even rougher. If the coil is bad, then there will be no difference.When doing this, reconnect the connector immediately if the coil was good (engine runs rougher when disconnected) because more unburned gas will go through your catalytic converter and maybe fry your cat. You will know within 2 seconds if it's worse.Also, don't unplug the coil from the spark plug to do this check... unplug the connector from the coil. If you unplug the coil from the plug, and then mistakenly touch the coil to the cylinder head, you will short out the coil and have to buy that one too. The connectors may be difficult to unplug because the locks are so finicky. I broke all the locks but the connectors still stay on no problem. Passat's go through coils. Always keep a spare in the car for a roadside replacement. The likelihood it's coils and not plugs is about 100 to 1. The Aamco guy is giving bad advice. If it's cylinder number 2, you should be able to get that information on-line as to which one it is. Start with that one to check.

This could also be a faulty fuel pump relay. I had a Honda Prelude that would not restart when hot, but if I let the engine bay cool down for 10 minutes, it would start no problem.

If water was coming in through the filter, it would go over and into the blower motor. My guess is that your blower motor is dead because they aren't designed to keep water out. Of course, if you hear the blower motor when you turn on the fan then that is likely not the problem, and instead you have some problem with the dampers.

The catalytic converter will glow red hot when it is burning unburned fuel from the cylinders. One very probably cause is that one of the cylinders is not firing because it has a bad coil. If that is the case, the engine should be running very rough. To find out which coil... either get the engine code read, or unplug the wire from the coil and see if the engine does not run any rougher (put the plug back on quickly because that is more fuel not being burned. Replace that coil with new one from auto parts store (about $30). IMPORTANT... do not try to figure out what coil is bad by unplugging the coil itself from the spark plug... if you touch the side of the cylinder head with the bottom of the coil, you will short it out and have to buy another one (I speak from experience). RECOMMENDED - buy one extra coil and keep it in the car. Whenever your car starts to run very rough and have low power, pull over and replace the bad one. It takes 5 minutes tops, and only needs a dime to get the engine cover off. No other tools necessary (well... something to move the connector lock).Another reason could be it's running rich. That is possible if the Mass Airflow Sensor is bad, or possibly the cam position sensor. These are easy to replace with a Google search showing how. If your catalytic converter is glowing red hot, you have probably wrecked it. It _may_ be ok, but likely is fried and your engine light will be on and the code will indicate you have low efficiency on catalytic converter on bank X. If a 4 cylinder, then it will always be bank 1 because there is only one. If a V6, then it will be one of the two banks. But it will be the one that glowed red. Cats are expensive, and expensive to install, so if you see your cat glowing red, do not drive the car. Not to mention, Passats leak so much oil that it is a fire hazard.Good luck!

Hi Liz, It could be a number of problems, most often its the fluid as well as the transmission filter.VW can charge up to 350 to do this job,because the transmission fluid is highly refined oil almost to the point of mineral oil.I highly recommend that whoever if indeed the fluid is dated;changes the transmission fluid that you use onlt Vwbrand fluid in it.There is a oil cooler that can sometimes get corroded after time,this could also cause the transmission to be sluggish.but if you need a good starting point I would put my money on the fluid change,Some People recomend that the fluid be replaced as well as filter at every 40,000 miles.ps. the good news is my eurovan's transmission just turned 200,000 miles.keep the fluid clean,keep the fluid cool you should get the same.Gary

Bad timing alignement.

there mayb more to it--if u didnt change computer-may not b compatible n u need to flash or reprogram it----the sensor u bot mite b aftermarket and not like original--crank sensor also has to du with startin---a data stream run with factory gear will pinpoint issue-it shows values that a xperiencd tech will figure--private shops are best-dont go dealer--its worth the $--code readers in a parts store wont cut it

I would check the oil pressure sensor and the oil pump itself. You can take the sensor out and use a mechanical gauge to check the oil pressure. If the oil pressure is within specs, you need a new sensor, if not, you need a new pump.

Here's a link to your brake master cylinder.