20 Most Recent 2000 Oldsmobile Silhouette - Page 5 Questions & Answers

Yes, it is. Possibly the forward clutch inside the transmission is going bad. It will require professional attention.

That's not a lot of information to go on, but it sounds like a transmission problem. Nothing about a transmission is easily fixable,so take it somewhere you trust to have it diagnosed.

get the fuel sender unit checked out ,is the engine running ok? if so must be getting fuel so pump must be working so i'd start with the sender unit let me know how you get on

Took me 10 seconds to find all sorts of web sites on P1811 Type: Olds OBD P1811

Have you inspected the belt? It is probably stretched or damaged...the belt turns the power steering unit, and charges your battery via the alternator...(low battery light) Did you drive through some deep water last night? Be sure to inspect this so you do not get stranded. Hope this helps.

More than likely a blown head gasket

hardware& tools needed....electrical tape. things to do before starting.......pump asmuch of the water from the washer tank as you can.....use what ever technique you may want to achieve this.....hose syphone, hand pump or motorized pump....just get er done....second thing.....preplan your task in your mind...with your and any others around....(now or later)......safety and well being in the forfront of all your plans.... the washer pumps are located on the fluid tank, passenger side over the wheel well, in the engine compartment. if you have front and back washers, determine which is which by looking at the existing pump labels.....they are labeled "front" for the front and no indication for the back. i think the manufacturer suggests disconnecting your battery when working onelectrical components. check your owners/maintenance manual for the proper instructions for battery disconnection. personally, i found it very easy to access and disconnect either front or back electrical connectors, so i skipped the battery disconnect./...but remember that you are dealing with water in the washer tank...so make darn sure to place the disconnected electrical plugs in a save place where any escaping water from your washer tank will not be splashed on/in the plugs....tape them aside in a safe place, or bag them in a sandwich bag. once the electrical plug is removed, (pull the lock tab up and over the protruding tab lock on the pump plug), remove the pump outlet hose from the pump outlet nipple. the rubber hose is 1/4-3/8 inch in diameter and will slide off with a easy pull......make a note of the exact positions of the outlet nipple and the electrical plug on the pump before removing. then just pull the top of the pump away from the tank slot it is in. it will pop out of the fitted molded housing, leaving the lower part of the pump in place. once the top is poped out, pull the pump upward until the pump comes out of the rubber gromet. the bottom of the pump has a 3/8"-1/4" diameter dip tube that is around an inch or two in length. the new pump will come with a new rubber gromet, so pull the old one out by pulling up on the side with your finger tip until it dislodges and flips into your hand. place the new one over the tank perferation, (the hole the old one came out of), then press down all around the edges until you feel it pop into place. place the dip tube of the new pump into the grommet until it bottoms out. then push the top of the pump into the molded housing on the side of the washer water tank. you will feel it snap into it\'s proper place. make sure the electrical connector and the pump outlet nipple are in the exact same position as the origional pumps were......the outlet nipple can be spun to the position that you want by holding the top of the pump and physically spinning the outlet nipple to your proposed position. now replace the rubber tubing onto the outlet nipple, (just like it was attached to the old pump). then reattach the electrical plug into the socket on the top of the pump, (once again....just like it was on the old pump). you will feel the plug snap into it\'s proper place once it is correctly inserted. if you don\'t feel the snap....it\'s not all the way in....push a little harder....until it snaps..... test the pump to see if it is working....then pat yourself on the back, (if you can), because you just DIYed your washer pump..... my new pump was purchaced late feb 2014, installed the day afterward and cost me around 16 bucks at o\'riley auto parts. the entire switch out took only a few minutes to accomplish. THERE IS ALWAYS DANGER INVOLVED IN WORKING ON A MOTOR VEHICLE SO PROCEED WITH EXTRA CARE AND CAUTION WHEN DOING IT YOURSELF.......THINK ABOUT THE TASK.....BEFORE STARTING....THEN PROCEED AFTER YOU HAVE A GOOD IDEA WHAT IS TO BE DONE TO ACCOMPLISH THE TASK WITHOUT BEING MAMED OR KILLED IN THE PROCESS. the author of this instructional can not be held responsible for any injury or property loss that may occur from the use of the information given in this forum entry, and states that any use of this information is to be done so at your own risk. the author of this info does give this information with the greatest of successful outcome intended for any who freely choose to use the content for the intended task at hand. good luck....plan well.....

Toyota has a very bizarre methodology making there gauges and dash lights operate, you should take all this apart and just replace the switch. there is a measure of resistance in the switch itself that reduces the current to "nominal" so it keeps the wire from overheating from over draw.

if both guages are giving problems i would suspect the cluster

I have a 2000 oldsmobile silhouette minivan and my abs/trac lights came on today and I would like to know if it would be safe to drive

The check engine light is blinking to tell you the problem is serious enough to damage the catalytic converter. If the ignition system is good, it could be something mechanical or something with the injectors.

Have you tried another key ? It could be the chip in the key or the sensor in the lock cylinder.

i dont think so.. you need a wide drain pan under it and start taking the pan screws out..one at a time..start at a lower corner.. work around the high side and back around..slowly allow the fluid to run as you go..it should drain about 3-4 quarts..

By security light if you mean the anti-theft, that is what should happen. Once you switch off the shows the vehicle is armed. When you restart, it goes off.