Top 10 2000 Oldsmobile Alero Questions & Answers

take ur battery out and get it tested if ur battery is old then your vehical will have a very hard time turning over.

I had the same problem this weekend and fixed it. I experienced the same difficulty. You need to remove a couple covers to allow good access to the back of the hazzard switch. First remove the vent that is located just ot the right of the hazzard switch. There are 2 metal clip at the botton side of the vent. Push up on the clips with a screw driver and pull the vent out. Next remove the black plastic bezzel for the gauges. The bezzel is held in place with 2 screws. Now you should have access to the hazzard switch from the left and right side. The hazzard switch mounts (clips) into a black plastic bracket. I was not able the remove the hazzard swich by pressing on the 2 clips, so I removed the 3 screws that held the bracket to the dash and removed the entire assembly. Hope this helps. I only ended up with a few minor scratches.

your have to remove the gas tank from under the car,or raise it on a lift and drop it down and then take the small bolts or screws out of the fuel pump access hole and remove the pump and sock replace both,and reverse the procedure.

2000 Oldsmobile Alero 3.4 liter V-6 VIN "E"




Hope helps (remember rated this).

my sunroof is stuck oprn and the close button does not work

Consiatted... Omfg dude!! You nailed it!!! I've been having same issue in my Alero for 2 years and pushing down on it worked!! You are awesome!! Thanks! I have a subwoofer and great speakers in my car but prefer the stock deck.. less electrical issues... I was gonna put a new deck in this weekend but scratch that thanks to you :)

Here is a diagram of where the map sensor is located on this particular vehicle, i have also included the removal and installation procedures as well

Hope this helps....

REMOVAL PROCEDURE

1. Remove the air cleaner outlet resonator.
2. Disconnect the manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor.
3. Remove the MAP sensor attaching screws (1).
4. Remove the MAP sensor vacuum hose (2).

INSTALLATION PROCEDURE

1. Connect the vacuum hose (2).

NOTE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.

1. Install the MAP sensor attaching screw (1).

Tighten
Tighten the screw to 6.5 N.m (5.7 lb in) .

1. Connect the MAP sensor connector.
2. Reinstall the air cleaner outlet resonator.

Sounds very much like the battery or the battery cables/connections. If the battery has low fluid or a shorted cell or two, it won't take a full charge no matter how long you charge it.
If you are not able to take the battery in for a load test and validate that it is good, try changing it out with the battery in another vehicle that is not having a problem, and see if that vehicle suddenly develops the same issue. Batteries need to have a load applied while the voltage is checked for a valid determination of it's condition. If you have a volt meter, have someone try the starter while you are checking the battery voltage. If it falls way below 12 volts (replace it), or stays above 12 volts (good) you have a valid answer either way.

You need a separate scan tool for that because they are on separate computers.

Hi Anonymous

What I believe you've said is that you turn the key to start, the engine turns over for a second, then you just hear the starter spinning but no engine turn over. Yes?

Then you took it to Autozone and tested it and it stayed engaged during the test. The differences, possible or real here, are the load on the starter gear end, and the electricity driving it.

There are a couple things happening in the start cycle. The motor starts spinning and the solenoid pushes the spinning gear forward to engage the toothed edge of the flywheel. If the solenoid doesn't push enough, the gear won't engage. So, one thought is that there's an issue with the solenoid - it may push the gear out just fine, but lack power to keep it pressed forward if there is back-force from the engine.

If you have a poor connection to the battery, the solenoid may not draw the current to keep the gear engaged. Checking the hot (red) wire both at the battery and where it attaches to the starter is the primary diagnostic there. Even if the battery has a good charge, the current draw if starting is the heaviest load it encounters in a typical day of driving, so the ability of the battery to dump that charge quickly in a pulse of high current is also important, and non-corroded, tightly connected wires help.

The starter gear also has a clutch in it - akin to the freewheel on the rear of a bike, or a ratchet. This lets the gear spin faster than the starter motor once the engine catches, so that the engine doesn't essentially grab the engaged starter motor and spin it waaay too fast. letting back on the key lets the fast spinning gear disengage without trouble. If there is an issue with that clutch/ratchet, that might also be allowing the gear to spin without it actually pushing - like the clicker in a ratchet sticking so that it'll spin either way.

After that.... there is likely both a relay and a fuse for the starter. Not a bad idea to check that neither is blown, or, in the case of the relay, looking sort of browned and cooked.

Hope this helps!
D