20 Most Recent 1997 BMW M3 - Page 2 Questions & Answers

ignition switch repl. starter motor? or solenoid

Go for it, plugs and air filter, oil and filter, that's about it now days. Maybe throw in some plug wires.

in the trunk right side under the plastic cover. over he wheel well.

lots of parts, alternator, water pump, a/c compressor lower area . many of them are on the serpentine belt. the pulleys and tensioner can make rattles. you need to confirm which part has the rattle or vibration, use a stick or screw driver. touch one end on the part and the other near your temple...any noise/vibration coming through?

fiind which one it is. lower noise on the crank can also sound like its coming from up front and that's a deep rattle.

0.032 inches.

Remove screws or place in small screwdriver to pop out control. remove wire harness and vacuum lines and put in new control and replace.

hi

What is the brand and model? Try to click this link below

http://www.fordscorpio.co.uk/aircon.htm

Good luck !!!!

Regards

PCmania

sounds like an EGR valve problem. it is probably clogged. get a tech to clean it or replace it and you should be good to go. if not it could be the MAF sensor or fuel delivery problem (fuel pump or injector problems?) or CPU.it is best to scan for diagnosis.

i am not sure but try these websites to see if they have any information if you do not have a owner manual try this website www.edmunds.com and the other one is www.alldatadiy.com and www.autozone.com if all fails stop by your local library and get your hands on a Haynes auto repair manual for your car.

If you have recently had the key made, it's possible that it needs to be cut again. If all of the cuts in the key are not exact, it could cause your key to unlock doors, and fit ignition, but sometimes it will not work on other locks such as the truck, glove box, etc. If the key is an original, chances are, it could be one of two things.

Either there is another key that goes to the trunk(perhaps the lock cylinder was replaced at one time, or the actual mechanism inside the trunk is either broken or malfunctioning. If this is the case, you'll most likely have to access the trunk through your back seat to open your trunk and/or look to see what the problem is.

However, if you are not comfortable doing this yourself, then I suggest calling a local locksmith. If you can take the car to them, they should be able to get it fixed rather inexpensively. Hope this helps and have a great afternoon!

James

THERE IS NO REASON WHY THE PLUG SHOULD NOT UNDO, BUT NO YOU CANNOT FLUSH THE ENGINE UNTIL YOU DO REMOVE IT

Yeah it has dual climate control, and your solution(FTjoe) that's probably the problem,Not checking the temp settings on both sides..makes me wonder how to mis it 'cause the tempsetting display is digital under/next to the < > buttons, hihihi.

The E36 M3 is natorious for having some minor enigine hesitation immediately after a cold start. My car does this for about the first block both in the morning and after work. Its part of the engine management start routine: you will see this more specifically if you just start you car when its cold and let it idle. Initially you'll notice that the idle tone is a bit more rumbly and rough; but after about minute or so you'll notice that pitch changes and smoothes out. I was alarmed about this too, but after some research, I found it was a characteristic of the design. Just take it easy for the first block and you will never notice. Don't ever cold rev your engine. - Hope that helps.

The vanos system advances vavle timing during engine accelleration by changing camshaft angle. See the M3 Wiki.

Your fuel injection pressure is probably leaking down causing gasoline to leak into the cylinders and resulting in a hard hot starting condition due to "flooding" of the engine. Try holding the accelerator pedal all the way to the floor of the car like your trying to go maximum speed down the highway and crank the engine for 10 seconds or less at a time. That tells your computer to enter the "clear flood" mode and stop injecting gas into the engine. Ask your repair shop to measure the fuel pressure and see if the pressure is bleeding off too rapidly.

http://www.repairmanualclub.com/motomanuals/
most leaks are caused by hoses.

You can go online and find the manual for it at BMW's website. It should be fairly easy to find. Wish I could help more. Good luck.

http://www.usautoparts.net/bmw/parts/bmw-aftermarket-parts-world.htm Here's a site,I have bought from them numerous times and they are very good.

you would only experience problems from the diff if there was a substantial increase in torque from the different engine as there would be less than 10% difference in torque ratings , Any noise from the diff would be naturally occurring from wear or oil diff noises indicating bearing problems are a whine on drive or coasting , an growl on deceleration and a harmonic whine or growl when the vehicle is held at steady speed Other than those indications , I would be more inclined to suspect wheel bearings and brake associated noises wheel bearings are normally more pronounced on cornering