My 2001 Passat's heater output is sluggish. The fan works and there is a bit of heat, but not the blast of hot air it used to make. Is this likely a thermostat issue? Is it a simple fix I can do?
Posted by jayglaser on
There are known problems with this vehicle's heater core not getting enough coolant flowing through it to blow hot air.
1) Even if the coolant looks good, there are problems with the heater core plugging up. One solution is to use a heavy duty cleaner (CLR pipe cleaner) to back flush the heater core. To know if the heater core is plugged up, disconnect the 2 heater hoses at the heater core and somehow connect a hose to one end of the core. Try to flow water through, it doesn't have to be high pressure, and there should be a steady stream. If not, try to get the cleaner directly into the heater core and let it soak. Then back flush it and a lot of scale should be seen coming out.
2) The other problem is that since the heater core is the highest point in the cooling system air tends to get trapped in it. This should only happen if the coolant goes low or someone has opened the system to service it. There are a number of ways to bleed the system (vacuum bleed, pressure bleed). One of the hoses should have a small hole in it for bleeding air, pull that hose back just enough so the hole allows coolant to flow out of it. Then accelerate the engine and get a good flow coming out, when no more air bubbles are present, there should be good heat.
3)I've heard of bad water pumps with low flow causing issues as well as an aux. water pump not fuctioning correctly leading to poor heat output from the heater core. Someone should confirm this as I cannot get much information on the aux water pump(electronic pump by the alternator that is supposed to run after the car is shut off).
Hope this helps.
Posted on Jan 06, 2009
Where is the diagnostic port located on my 2001 passat 5 sp. auto V6?
Posted by kwickstrom on
On the old Volkswagen Passat B5 (MY 1997-2001) the Data Link Connector (DLC) or diagnostic port is placed on the right side of the parking brake lever, under a small rectangle rubber cover. See pictures below:
On the new Volkswagen Passat B5 (after MY 2001) the Data Link Connector (DLC) or diagnostic port is placed on the panel above pedals. See pictures below:
Posted on Apr 07, 2011
where is the port to recharge the ac system on a 2001 vw passat?
Posted by gcoll52 on
High pressure A/C port
Low pressure A/C port
Posted on May 22, 2011
how do i adjust my headlights?
Posted by black... on
Left headlight (adjustment screws for right headlight are mirror image):
1 - Lateral adjustment 2 - Height adjustment
Posted on Oct 19, 2010
camshaft position sensor location for 2001 VW Passat 1.8T?
Posted by dot... on
when you are looking at the engine pull off the plastic cover on top then the front cover that covers you timing belt there is a wire harness tha goes right to it in the left upper coner two ten mil bolts and it comes off careful not to drop bolts down in belt that could be bad. it is that easy
Posted on Sep 01, 2009
VW Passat 2001: Exhaust emission warning lamp flashing. Manual says 'blinks if the catalyst can be damaged by misfires'. Any suggestions?
Posted by eoinbonner on
"Check engine light" EMISSIONS WORKSHOP! Do you want to shut it off???
After reading all of the negative comments and how much money Passat owners have spent due to this manufacturer's problem, I am going to save the day and save you $$$ by showing you how to "reset" the diagnostic computer which makes the "emissions workshop-check engine light come on! (This is the same thing the VW dealer will charge you hundreds of dollars to do.) To turn off the "Check Engine" (Emissions Workshop) light, simply follow these 5 basic steps:
1. Pop open the hood.
2. Insert the key in the ignition and turn without starting the engine until all of the dash indicators light and warning tones sound.
3. With the key still in the ignition, use a 10mm wrench or socket to loosen and completely disconnect the negative (-) battery cable from the battery. Wait about 60 seconds before reconnecting.
4. Re-connect and tighten the negative (-) cable to the battery and close the hood.
5. Start the engine. THE "CHECK ENGINE" LIGHT HAS GONE OUT!
If the light stays on, then there really is a problem. If it has turned off, be glad, but don't be surprised to see it come on again in a few weeks. If it comes on again, simply follow steps 1-5. Remember... This quick repair is for those who just can't stand looking at this light or afford to visit VW every time this light comes on. If you feel the need to service the vehicle, service the vehicle. I hope this has made your "NIGHTMARE" a little easier!!!
Posted on Dec 28, 2009
WHERE IS THE REVERSE LIGHT SWITCH ON A 2003 vw pASSAT 1.9tdi
Posted by marklander... on
Its on the transmission but depending if its an automatic or manual trans changes the parts price and location. Manual trans has a two pin switch in the top of the trans for about $100 automatic has a multifunction switch located by the gear selector on the side of the transmission for about $200
Posted on Jan 10, 2009
Can you give me a link or name of a website where I can download or get a pdf. for a 2001 VW Passat GLX (w/V6 Engine) owners manual?
Posted by treehouse1 on
Posted on Feb 18, 2009
Looking for 2001.5 VW Passat 4-Motion fuse box diagram with word descriptions, not just the symbols
Posted by grinnell10... on
It would be easier if you mention what device you're working with and I can tell you what number location it's fuse is at. Symbols are only there to confuse the hell out of you, although it's true purpose is to be recognized as a global standard. Now if you want to make it easier for yourself, buying a Bentley's repair manual is the only way to go. I hate to tell you that there are no free manuals you can down load, it cost money and someones time to upload a manual just to share it freely on the net.
Posted on Jul 24, 2010
My vw passat vibrates when I start the engine even on nuetral position of the gear, and vibrates/jerks as well when I begin to change the gears. I also find it difficult when ascending roads.
Posted by Victor... on
There are 3 engine mounts that keep the engine steady and transfer the torque to the transmission. One solid mount on the front, and a hydraulic mount on either side of the engine. Worn mounts will cause sloppiness and difficulty in shifting, and noticeable play when pressing and releasing the accelerator.
The front mount, also known as the snub mount, is a rubber or polyurethane bushing that centers the engine in the engine compartment. This is a common wear point, and causes vibrations at idle when misaligned or worn out. Since your car is several years old, it would be a good idea to replace it and is a fairly easy operation (2/5 on the difficulty scale).
The mount should cost around $8-12 for a stock type mount, and around $35-40 for a high-performance polyurethane bushing. The upside of the high performance is that the engine pay is greatly reduced; the downside is that there is more likely to be slight vibration transferred to the engine compartment at idle, which is what you are trying to avoid. Unless you are a "spirited driver", I would suggest that the stock type mount (looking a bit like a mushroom versus a topless cupcake) should be just fine.
If your car is running rough, then you should really look into a tune-up before starting the installation, as adjustment will be difficult is the engine isn't running smoothly. On these cars, new plugs and air filter, as well as vacuuming out the airbox pre-filter of leaves, dirt and bugs can do wonders for a smoother idle. (The next level of sophistication is cleaning the Mass Airflow Unit, but that's a more extended topic.)
Here is the process for installation: Raise up the vehicle on wheel ramps or with a jack and sturdy jack stands. DO NOT EVER WORK UNDER A VEHICLE SUPPORTED BY A JACK, USE THE JACK STANDS. You can get the jack stands for under $30, and your life isn't worth taking a chance. While you are being a good mechanic at the deep end of the gene pool, put on goggles or safety glasses. There is greasy dirt that WILL fall in your face, and it will get in your eyes, believe me it is nasty.
After the car is fully supported, take off the splash shield, which is held on with several quarter-turn screws. You might want to take picks with your phone or digital camera during the whole process to be confident on alignment.
You should have a good flashlight or worklight. While you're under the car, inspect for oil leaks, and peek up at the motor mounts on either side of the engine. If you see an oil dirt at the bottom of these mounts, they are likely worn out and should be replaced. That's a bigger job, probably about $500 at the dealer, $120 at home with the right tools and half or a full day of your time. But you can still replace the snub in the front independently, so don't give up.
There are three bolts on the front lower engine mount at the front of the engine. You can now see the mount protruding into the front rail of the car. Remove these 3 bolts. (Don't worry, they center the engine, they don't hold weight.)
You can now remove the old rubber snub mount. Clean the mounting post, and press on the new snub to the aluminum engine mount. This may require some force and may be helped with a little silicon grease or soapy water.
Next loosen the four nuts holding the snub basket to the front clip. (Do not remove, but leave hand-tight as these will facilitate adjustment.) You can now reinstall the lower engine bracket onto the engine and tighten the three allen head screws.
Adjustment: Start the engine and let idle for about a minute, popping the accelerator a few times to help center the snub and the receiver. Let idle for 10 seconds more without touching the gas, and turn off the engine.
Back under the car, tighten the four receiver nuts without moving the receiver. Start the engine back up, and check to make sure there isn't any unreasonable low frequency vibes transferring to the car. (Assuming you did the tuneup.)
Finish up by ensuring that all nuts and bolts are properly tightened, reinstall the splash shield and screws, and lower the car back on the ground.
Take the car for a test drive and see if it solved your problem.
Posted on Jun 06, 2010
1,270 questions posted
Usually answered in minutes!