20 Most Recent 2002 Nissan Xterra - Page 4 Questions & Answers

Have your tires inspected. It could have a bad tire or need your tires balanced and an alignment. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/justin_3ae27a9d61d6acd4

Denver is only 5400 ft. above sea level. You shouldn't have to change anything. Sounds like your friendly local repair shop is'nt busy enough with real work.

More than likely it's your spark plugs, plug wires or distributor cap. I would just replace them all due to the age of the vehicle and this should fix your problem. Cheap and easy fix. Should only take 30 min or less but the back plug can be a pain so make sure you use a spark plug socket.

The code is probably 300. The cause could be ignition or fuel related. A random miss is not constant enough for the engine computer to select any one cylinder.

Most likely the noise you are hearing is because the belt is older and has dried out. Replace the belt with a new flexible belt and your noise will probably subside. I always replace the tensioner when I replace the belt so that it doesn't go bad later. Here is a link to a great video that a person posted: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c3LYdqPoa-0

belts squeak or squeal if loose or worn . water pump bearings will give a low grumble like marbles in a drum. you cannot adjust a water pump only the belts to it. if the noise is a grumble then the fix is a new water pump unit.

I had the same problem with 2 different vehicles. Kept burning out the replacement bulbs, and they never lasted very long. I was told that I should never touch the bulbs with my bare hands/fingers because it transferred oil onto the bulb which would in turn create a hot spot on the bulb and cause it to burn out. I tried changing the bulb while wearing hospital type thin latex gloves. I also made sure not to touch the bulb to anything else while guiding it into its proper position. I know it sounds silly, and it may just be a coincidence, but I have not had the problem since I started installing bulbs this way.

Special tools are necessary to replace tie rod ends. After the tie rod ends are replaced, it is mandatory to have an alignment done.

You can try your local dealership. Usually print out for free if not a couple bucks.

do a codes search look up how to preform on yahoo but you need codes for solution also you can find code solutions on yahoo too

I had the same problem when my starter shorted out. Bought a remanufactured starter from Amazon, took about 30 minutes to change, no issues since.

Inspect/Replace If it is necessary to remove the heater assembly, the cooling system must be drained before removing the heater core.
When a heater core leaks, a new heater core is installed or the old one repaired.
Heater Housing

• The heater housing is usually under the dash and must be removed to gain access to the heater core.
• Procedures for replacing the heater core vary with the year, make, and model of car. It threfore necessary to consult the manufacturer's repair manuals for the proper procedure for replacement.

The heater housing is disassembled to get to the heater core. Heater Core

• Remove the access panels(s) or the split heater/air conditioning case to gain acess to the heater core.
• Remove the heater coolant hoses.
• Remove the cable and/or vacuum control lines (if equipped).
• Remove the heater core securing brackets and/or clamps.
• Lift the core from the case. Do not use force. Take care not to damage the fins of the heater core when removing.
• To reinstall the heater core, reverse the removal steps.

When the heater core leaks and must be repaired or replaced, it is a very difficult and time-consuming job primarily because of the core's location deep within the firewall of the car. For this reason always leak test a replacement heater core before installation.

The easy answer....yes, the longer answer....it is not a bolt in swap. You will need to do a lot of fabrication to make it work. And even more work to make things like speedometer and gauges work after you get the engine to run and the drive train connected.

Look in the owner's manual for the fuse chart and it will tell you what the fuse location is for the fuse that is obviously blown.

Were any of the fuse ever blown? If so, do you know the circuits they were on? You replaced perfectly good bulb/lamps? You have a fuse blow one time only,you stop You look up the fuses circuit & what is on it that may be a problem & do some testing You have wasted not only time, but I assume, lots of money on parts, for no real reason, when you consider you never tried to find a problem This dislike for repair shops & fear of the cost, may be your only problem Nothing works, because you did nothing & now expect us to guess How do we guess,please tell us We have no vehicle to test,can't go by what you have done

The Thermo control AMP (part number 27675-9Z000) is a thermister that controls the compressor clutch. Cost around $44.00 at Nissan dealership, the salesman told me that they keep those and high pressure hose in stock regularly.

The device is set to come on at 39-41 F and go off at 37-38 F.

**The TCA(Thermal Control Amplifier) which essentially is a clip on one end connected to two wires and a RED square thermostat looking clip on the other.

The part is around $44 but make sure you get the right part, on a 2000 has a Three prong clip, depends on the year of the vehicle.

Removal procedure:

Remove the Glove compartment entirely (four black screws on paremeter)(2 black screws that lock glove compartment)

ONce removed you will see a BLACK BOX - This is where you will need to reach to exchange the wire(TCA)

First, remove 3 silver screws facing down that hold BLACK BOX tightly together.

Second. Try to remove as many GOLD larger screws as possible, You will find some facing the passenger seat easily but others are hidden behind the wiring and tucked away, look really hard especially on the left hand side of the box because this is the area your hand will need to enter.

ONce you've taken those screws out, you will be able to pry open the black box, reach in, you will see the RED square CLIP tucked into the RIBS of the Radiator coolant. just pull it out, it's a plastic clip and won't break, pull to your left.

Detach the white clip from the Box.(the white clip slides into the box, push it down to get it off)replace with the new one, place the RED TCA in the same area as before.Re-install all screws. Let the car run for a while,that's it problem solved.

Note:Nissan has also had these a/c problems for a long time. The hoses that constantly need to be replaced are very cheaply made,part of the problem also may be vibration related and the bends where the rubber and metal (aluminum) are crimped have to much pressure at those points and leak after a while.

nissans have a screw adjustment in the side of the ECM from the book access the ECM. switch ignition to on position. turn diagnostic mode selector on ecm fully clockwise ( screw in the side of the case near the back on the side) wait at least 2 seconds. turn diagnostic selector on the ECM fully counter clockwise. self diagnosis now in mode 2. MIL should flash codes should be readable on the scanner.

i hope you do not have security device on the car, if you do there some security device that cut off the fuel supply and this could be your problem mostly, if the device is malfunctioning.

these are designed to be placed were they are so it will only pick up a knock from the engine and not other things bolted to the engine. just replace the knock sensor were it was designed to work best.