20 Most Recent 2003 Mitsubishi Lancer - Page 7 Questions & Answers

Sounds to me like there is a set of wires somewhere that are shorted together. Recheck all of your new sound system connections are correct and that a ground wire didn't get accidentally put together. Good Luck!

2003 Mitsubishi... | Answered on Dec 08, 2013

if hydralic clutch theres no adjustment

2003 Mitsubishi... | Answered on Dec 01, 2013

Call the auto locksmith on this one ,it all needs reprogramming

2003 Mitsubishi... | Answered on Nov 01, 2013

Well, it seems to be a hydraulic clutch, meaning it works by oil pressure. The reservoir is under the hood against the firewall and is usually very close to the brake reservoir. Both take the same dot3 brake fluid that can be purchased at the auto parts store. Make sure they both have the proper levels in them. Your clutch has definitely got air in the lines from a low fluid issue or the clutch master or slave cylinder needs replacing or rebuilding.

2003 Mitsubishi... | Answered on Oct 14, 2013

I HAD the same problem, fixed it. From my experience this is what you're going to do:

1. At cold start, see if the condenser fan or the radiator fan turns on right away. If yes, replace the Fan Control Module ($100 original). A/C and motor fan should only come on when temp is "normal", meaning the needle in the temperature gauge sits in the middle.

2. If the radiator fan does not come on when temp level needle reaches the middle of the gauge, your motor is dead and that's why you overheat pretty quickly. Replace radiator motor ($70 replacement). Or you can check if the motor is working by directly powering it from the battery. Use small cable jumper ($2 at Walmart)

3. Replace thermostat ($14 with thermostat gasket)
4. Drain existing coolant and put in new one.

Most of the time its the radiator fan that goes out pretty quickly due to faulty fan control module (that little black box that attaches to the fan assembly hood on the driver's side near the battery). I did all the repairs and saved a ton of labor cost. Its easy, just search it on youtube and they will show you how to do it. The solution I gave is what fixes mine.

Good Luck!

2003 Mitsubishi... | Answered on Oct 08, 2013

Hi there: first, check this information about "engine noses"...

A clicking or tapping noise that gets louder when you rev the engine is probably "tappet" or upper valvetrain noise caused by one of several things: low oil pressure, excessive valve lash, or worn or damaged parts.

First, check the engine dipstick to see if the oil level is low. If low, add oil to bring it back up to the full mark. Is the engine still noisy? Check your oil pressure. A low gauge reading (or oil warning light) would indicate a serious internal engine problem that is preventing normal oil pressure from reaching the upper valvetrain components. The cause might be a worn or damaged oil pump, a clogged oil pump pickup screen or a plugged up oil filter. Using too thick a viscosity of motor oil during cold weather can also slow down the flow of oil to the upper valvetrain, causing noise and wear.

Worn, leaky or dirty lifters can also cause valvetrain noise. If oil delivery is restricted to the lifters (plugged oil galley or low oil pressure), the lifters won't "pump up" to take up the normal slack in the valvetrain. A "collapsed" lifter will then allow excessive valve lash and noise.

If you can rule out lubrication-related problems as a cause, the next step would be to remove the valve cover(s) and check valve lash. On older import engines, mechanical lifters require periodic valve lash adjustments (typically every 30,000 miles). Too much space between the tips of the rocker arms and valve stems can make the valvetrain noisy -- and possibly cause accelerated wear of both parts.

To measure (and adjust) valve lash, you need a feeler gauge. The gauge is slid between the tip of the valve stem and rocker arm (or the cam follower or the cam itself on overhead cam engines) when the piston is at top dead center (valve fully closed). Refer to a manual for the specified lash and adjustment procedure. Also, note whether the lash spec is for a hot or cold engine (this makes a big difference!).

On engines with hydraulic lifters, oil pressure pumps up the lifters when the engine is running to maintain zero lash in the valvetrain. This results in quiet operation. So if the rocker arms are clattering, it tells you something is amiss (bad lifter or worn or damaged parts) or the rocker arms need adjusting.

Inspect the valvetrain components. Excessive wear on the ends of the rocker arms, cam followers (overhead cam engines) and/or valve stems can open up the valve lash and cause noise. So too can a bent pushrod or a broken valve spring.

Usually bad news. A deep rapping noise from the engine is usually "rod knock," a condition brought on by extreme bearing wear or damage. If the rod bearings are worn or loose enough to make a dull, hammering noise, you're driving on borrowed time. Sooner or later one of the bearings will fail, and when it does one of two things will happen: the bearing will seize and lock up the engine, or it will attempt to seize and break a rod. Either way your engine will suffer major damage and have to be rebuilt or replaced.

Bearing noise is not unusual in high mileage engines as well as those that have been neglected and have not had the oil and filter changed regularly. It can also be caused by low oil pressure, using too light a viscosity oil, oil breakdown, dirty oil or dirt in the crankcase, excessive blowby from worn rings and/or cylinders (gasoline dilutes and thins the oil), incorrect engine assembly (bearings too loose), loose or broken connecting rod bolts, or abusive driving.

Bearing wear can be checked by dropping the oil pan and inspecting the rod and main bearings. If the bearings are badly worn, damaged or loose, replacing the bearings may buy you some time. But if the bearings are badly worn or damaged, the crankshaft will probably have to be resurfaced - which means a complete engine overhaul or replacing the engine is the vehicle is worth the expense.

The cause here may be Spark Knock (Detonation) caused by an inoperative EGR valve, overadvanced ignition timing, engine overheating, carbon buildup in the combustion chambers, or low octane fuel.

Hope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback is important and I`ll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment about this answer.

Thank you for using FixYa, have a nice day

2003 Mitsubishi... | Answered on Oct 01, 2013

Sounds like a bad fuse. There are fuse boxes under the hood as well as inside. Try swapping the same number fuses with each other. If what you swap for starts working replace the fuse you swapped with. Alot of times there is a fuse puller in fuse box case and spare fuses.

2003 Mitsubishi... | Answered on Aug 15, 2013

Most mitsubushi door handels have a loop and hook type connection,
You most likley un hooked the lever.
You need to remove the door handel with the panel attached to the door and re-hook the lever.
good luck,Gary

2003 Mitsubishi... | Answered on Jul 23, 2013

The most common cause for no crank is the neutral safety switch.
On automatic trans cars it keeps you from cranking the engine in drive or reverse. On manual trans cars you have to push the clutch in.
I would want to know if the starter is getting power from the key switch when the switch is in the start position.

2003 Mitsubishi... | Answered on Jul 15, 2013

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