Top 10 2000 Buick Park Avenue Questions & Answers

Hi

'''P0446 Evaporative Emission Control System Vent Control Circuit Malfunction'''(this type of codes are usually caused when you put gas in your vehicle with the engine running. if that was the case it would go away on its own,other wise its a bit technical to explain.

There is a valve, usually located on the charcoal canister at the rear of the vehicle, that opens to allow fresh air to enter the evaporative emissions system as the engine vacuum purges the fuel vapors from the charcoal canister and closes when purge is not needed to prevent leakage of those fuel vapors to the atmosphere (HC is a greenhouse gas and is regulated as such by the fed gov't).

Given that you have the incorrect purge flow code and the control valve code together, my bet is that the vent control valve has failed (causing the P0446) and is not opening to allow fresh air into the system to displace the air from within the system that is being pulled to the engine.

Try tightening, or replacing the gas cap, and look for holes in the filler neck to the gas tank.

Please do accept this solution and revert for further assistance.

Thanks
Rylee

Adam, I like your solution, but this is easier:
1. Get a strong magnet
2. Use the magnet to move the needle into the top half of gage (don't take anything apart)
3. Test it by turning the car on.

need to take car somewhere to have the code read with a scanner,try parts stores first some will do it for free if not the dealers have them

The electric adjustment motor has a drive-gear that engages a gear on the shaft of the adjustment screw (90 degree engagement). The gear on the adjustment shaft looses a tooth. Adjustment motor whines, drive gear on adjustment motor spins, no action though because of missing tooth. A 12mm 1/4" drive socket on a wiggler (universal) on the end of a 6" extension can engage the not on the end of the exposed large adjustment shaft and, as the shaft is lightly loaded and the electrical switch engaged, one can get the shaft to spin almost one revolution at a time until the seat is high enough. It is hard to reach the nut necessary (inside the dull-grey clevis that the shaft threads into) and I had to take off the seat pad by removing the 4@ 13mm nuts (and 3 @10mm nuts holding the center section with the driver's cushion) to more-or-less easily access the situation. Dealership wanted well over $1000. to fix it. Three out of my 4 up and down adjustment motors are running, but don't adjust. PS, on my 2001 Park Avenue on each seat there is one adjustment motor for the front edge up and down, one adjustment motor for the rear edge up and down, one adjustment motor for the seat fore and aft, and one adjustment motor for the sear back tilt. Lots of complication, not so much on durability. We do not swap out drivers and adjust the seats excessively. Weak design on the one internal gear. Manually adjust it, unplug the electric to the motor, Drive happy again.

It's not easy but heres a guide Hope it can help you.


http://autorepair.about.com/od/fixityourself/ss/fuel_pump_repl.htm

U can either do it with a basic code reader or u can erase/reset it by disconnecting the battery NEGATIVE FOR 5 MIN'S

HI. your Buick has actually has 4 fuse boxes two under the hood near the batery one will be quite larger then the other next to it and have a start shaped fastener in the middle of the cover this unscrews to get access to the fuses. there will be a listing on the back of where the fuses go. The other will have a snap on cover and hold up to 8 maxi fuses. Again the cover should have a listing of these. You will find another under the drivers side of the dash towards the center of the car. The 4th is under the rear seat. you will need to remover the lower seat cushion to gain access to it. If there is a specif fuse you are trying to locate just ask and i will help you find it. good luck

Once you have checked ALL fuses. An inspection of the wires should be done. There is a rubber boot in the drivers door jam between the drivers door and the A-piller. This is a common location for breaks in wires to occur do to frequent movement. If you don't see anything here, proceed to checking for power at the non-functional switches (window, door lock). If power is present, check for continuity through the switch. These checks can be performed with a simple test light.

The instrument panel fuse block is located to the far right side under the instrument panel. Remove the hush panel on the passenger's side to reveal the fuses. To remove the panel, do the following:
1. Remove the two 7 mm screws located along the front edge of the panel.
2. Lower the hush panel. The fuse block is a rectangular covered box located on the far right side under the instrument panel.
3. Remove the cover. Now you can see the fuses and replace them.
4. Place the wide end of the fuse puller over the plastic end of the fuse.
5. Squeeze the ends over the fuse and pull it out.

Spare fuses are located in the empty slots shown on the following chart. Check PDM position for Passenger Door Module...



Additionally, in yhe Power Distribution box (underhood) you have one MaxiFuse of 30AMP for PWR WDO (Circuit Braker). Also check DDM (Driver Door Module) and PDM (Passenger Door Module) fuses.

This diagrams could be helpfull (click image for zoom)...



Fig. Underhood Fuse Block and Underhood Maxi-Fuse Block(c) (2000)



Fig. Underhood Fuse Block, BAT 1 Fuse/Rear Fuse Block, RDM, C/LTR, DDM, HTDST L and TRK REL Fuses/ IP Fuse Block, PDM, SBM and CSTR/SBM Fuses(c) (2000)

Fig. Front Power Window Components(c) (2000)

Fig. Rear Power Window Components(c) (2000)

It is possible that the BCM (Body Control Module) could be faulted, however I would make the other checks I suggested before drawing this conclusion.

Keep us updated.

head light control module under dash driver side

Ok, The other day I had a "service Engine Soon" light. The car was shifting really hard, and slamming into each gear. I have found that if I pull over, take my code reader and plug it in, I get a PO742 code. Torque converter circuit stuck on. I proceed to erase that code from the computer, and restart the car and it will run and drive totally fine, as if nothing is wrong. I have been doing it this way for 3 years and the car is running fine to this day. It hasn't cost me a dime in repairs, and I commute 500 miles/week. It's worth a try, because I have heard that if you spend 800-900 bucks to get it "fixed", the problem WILL return some day.