20 Most Recent 1995 BMW 5 Series - Page 6 Questions & Answers

Goto pelicanparts dot com for technical writeup with photos. Similar procedure for all 6 cyl BMW 3 & 5 series from 91-03 (M50/M52 engine).

Go to www.rapidfire.com to get a manual.

needs new mechanism

dont try to do it on your own u need to order the new cylinder from the dealer only i had a place called auto lab fix it for 150

u probley need a new blower motor for your heat

fuse ok. check tail light socket connection against the circuit board assembly

If there is no air pockets(locks) in the system (check if both upper and lower radiator hoses are hot when engine at operating temperature ) might be a head gasket.
It's also depends on how bad it is overheating , fan clutch can cause it too.

pull the radio and get serial number then contact dealer, they will be able to get code ,,buy usually for a fee

fan clutch isn't spinning the fan to pull air to cool car. replace fan clutch assembly. that fan alone should keep the car in the mid zone. electric auxillary is for A/C and overheating only.

hi check the wiper relay in the fuse box under the bonnet it might be stuck in one position and keeping the wipers on all the time..hope that helps to start with

There is no easy way, it hidden behind a lot of tubes, including the ones for the auto tranny, if you have it.
Follow this procedure:
1. from underneath drain the system using the blue plug on the tank (unscrew it) on a manual tranny; on an auto one you will have to remove the tranny cooler held by a big clip.
2.from underneath remove the water sensor (rotate it) and the bottom clip. 
3.pull the clips from the water pipes (2 top, 1 bottom) and remove the pipes.
4. pull the tank straight up hard  - it's held on its by friction; you can twist and bend it a little.
Do the exact opposite to put it back. All should take you about an hour without the bleeding.

To access the pulleys for servicing:
1. Remove fan clutch and set it inside the fan shroud.
2. No need to remove Fan Shroud.
3. Apply force Clockwise on the "lower" Pulley (aka Tensioner Pulley) to release tension on the drive belt and slip the belt off.
4. Now you see the "Idler pulley", check to be sure you have Torx or Allen screw and remove it. Straightforward:




If you are strapped for cash. Info on re-packing the pulleys is here:
http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/200161
1. Note how the pulley is assembled, including washer orientation for re-installation.
2. Use a picking tool and gently remove the seal and you will see the bearing. There are a total of three (3) bearings: 2 on the tensioners and on deflector (or idle pulley), while there, you may as well grease all three of them:




PS: You can dip the bearing in a small container containing gasoline to rinse of old grease. Then pack new grease in and re-install the seals.

Light's, check your brake light's.

There is a long drawn out procedure to do this, however, the simplest solution would be to unhook your Negative Battery cable, and if you like, the Positive one as well...Over-night (or for at least two hours). When you reconnect them, then the code should be erased from your "Trip Computer" and your car should start fine. I take it you're not speaking of the "radio code." Should this not work completely, remove the glove box door, while the battery's un-hooked and unplug the connection to your Motronics, or "computer" for ten seconds and that should erase any previously set codes you've entered.

Hope this Helps,

~00 Buck~

"Still living on the Right Side of Dirt..."

add more washer fliud to the resoivor

The location of the battery in the BMW 525i series is under the back seat on the passengers side. To access the battery, grab under the front portion of the back seat and pull upward with some force. There are two slips into which the seat is secured. One on the passenger side and one on the drivers side, again in the front of the back seat. There is not one in the center.

Could be water pump does the electric fan cycle on off while the car is idling??? Could be the electric fan or the electric fan temp cycle sensor as well?
If everything checks ok, check for a head gasket problem?

starter may have came loose.. try tightening starter bolts.

Yes, it sounds like the fusebox is not wired right. Most of it is large harness plugs, but there are also many individual wires as well, and they must not all be correct.

One slow but sure way to figure it out is to disconnect the battery, and to buy one of those active circuit tracers they sell for phone lines, etc.
You attach a signal pulser to a wire you know is wrong, like the fuel pump, and then use the audio pickup to see where it is attached to the fuse block. Then you use the wiring diagram to put it in its proper place.