Top 20
2005 Chevrolet Silverado Questions & Answers
Why does my 2005 chevy silverado manual transmission keep blowing the INJ2 fuse?
Check stored ODBII codes for injector circuit high/low faults (P0200). Implies a injector control wire short or failing injector. Further troubleshooting is required, test don't guess. Check injector #2 control wire for signs of abrasion or rodent damage. Use an ohm meter to compare resistance of number 2 injector to other injectors. Search internet for how to... plenty of videos.
2005 Silverado front brake sticking
The heat of the system causes the air to expand more than brake fluid and it actually applies pressure to the brakes as you warm up the vehicle. Hopefully you bench bled the master cylinder or took the time to bleed it on the vehicle before hooking up the brake lines. If not, start there. I've been at this a while and want to take a minute to make sure you did it as it should be done. During this entire process, do not let the master cylinder reach the bottom or you have to start over. You should cautiously fill the master cylinder to the correct full amount and re-install the lid to limit splashing (air gets into the fluid) during the bleeding operation. This is a 2 person operation. First, to get all of the air out you must start at the wheel farthest from the master cylinder, the Right Rear! Now, after breaking the bleeder valve loose but still not letting brake fluid drain,,, have your assistant pump the brakes until tight as possible and then hold the pedal to the floor until the fluid has been bled from the first location. DON'T release the brake pedal until you have made sure the bleeder valve is closed. Repeat this until you have no air at all and clean fluid. Now, do the next wheel. Left Rear! Next the Right Front, and finally the Left Front. By following this method you will have eliminated all of the air from the brake system as long as you don't have any leaks.
Fuel gage and speedometer don't work
remove the dash clean the connectors and refit, sounds like its become un-seated on the connection, if you push on the dash and see if it comes to life again or parts come back then this is the fault, other fault can be the board on the back of the dash, damp etc can cause electrical problems, it may need drying, and you can re seal the board with nail varnish clear but you will need to re-solder all the connections back on first then use the varnish, the varnish should last years longer than the flaky stuff they use from new, just make sure its dry before plugging back in to the vehicle.
My 2005 silverado is running
Vacuum leak, tear in the air duct between the MAF and throttle body. Have it scanned to see what the fuel trims show. A vacuum leak will cause the PCM to add more fuel to correct a lean condition. That'll cause misfires and load the converter, causing it to melt down and restrict exhaust. Sound like you're throwing parts at it instead of diagnosing the problem
I am changing rear brakes
Lisle tool 50600 Back Single Spring Brake Tool is made just for this purpose. Makes it a piece of cake. Nightmare to do without it.
2005 Z-71 is overheating my gauge pannel has gone out so all i have is my mesage center . yesterday it flased up that my engine coolant hot it would stay on for minutes or somtimes seconds. when it wa
Trying to understand from what you wrote..It sounds like something is not recirculating correctly.I would change out the thermostat first because it's the cheapest thing you can do..It might be getting stuck...not opening normal..When you said you turned on the heater and no hot air.. there's a hose right there at the thermostat that runs to your heater core usually under your glove box..If your not getting hot air then the water is not recirculating through your heater core..it could be a valve that is stuck when selecting heat that's not working also.. Flush your radiator..Open the radiator cap only after car motor has cooled down..Drain the radiator...There's a small turn valve nut at the bottom of it..Watch what comes out..is the water rusty color especially as it slows down from draining...They make radiator flush.. Also you can buy a thermostat that opens sooner...Like if yours is 180...you can buy one that opens at 160..A lot of cars are missing the black spoilers under the car that help push air up to keep motor cool..Make sure your water pump is good..Cat converter is not clogged in front of muffler...It will make you car run hot if it's getting clogged...Also Find out where your losing coolant...I've seen on holes in the heater core that leek from where your AC condensed water drips out..It will fool you and loose about a cup of water.. Smell the water your loosing also....if it's dripping from where the AC water is and you smell coolant...You have a bad heating core
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