20 Most Recent 2008 Acura Tl - Page 8 Questions & Answers

misfire 3.5L V6 those disconnects, each , will slam the PCM into limphome mode. you need your own $9 scan tool, pulling the sensors, only stores DTC codes. that only hide there real ones. next time you pull a sensor, use the scan tool and reset the PCM. clearing all codes, then drive and see what fails. imagine a sick patient in hospital bed and you cutting lines to the person. you cant fix cars with no scan tool and 100x that , if intermittent. cant. (i can, but have voltmeters and such that can log data) running good before, , all cars do that even new. they all run what counts when its bad. so connect the scan tool and log the sensors, and see what DTC pops first. and see all the sensor data. bank1 OXY sensor 1 heaters is bad. (or wires to it melted) on some cars , if the heater shorts, it will take out other sensors here ill look yours up in alldata.com the heater runs off 12vdc, and the current is monitored by the PCM. id fix this first, (after all , its bad, fix it) P300, is all 6 misfiring, that is most likely bad fueling, too rich or way to lean. the OXY B1S1 short will short the C436 power bus, and maybe slam B1 full rich, C436 runs many other things that need power, so if it shorts. all bets OFF !! all black-yellow wire power feeds. it runs PCM pin E1, ,EGR, fuel press.reg.sol. , intake air bypass #1 and 2. and screws up altternator pin1 (96 only) yah, B1S1 , new, and if wires burnt there , fixed.

and Acura Corvette? this an engine swap?

red? someone put in a dangerous additive. dont repeat their mistake. AF coolant leaks cause milk chocolate look, see it here, Anitfreeze contam. http://www.fixkick.com/engine/97-motor-pull/extras/pull-day2%20%285%29.JPG

this car has the odd duck thermistor sensor my guess, if the light is on full, and the tank really is full. im logging in to alldata.com to see, you can too. the sensor is shorted, or the lt-green-red to it is grounding out to the body. just the opposite of the fuse #1 bad, Fuse 1 is back up lights. so if it blow,, no backup lights. no meter lights or no sunroof ops. the test is easy, unplug the thermistor at tank light goes out. key on, then the sensor is bad. or some joker put the wrong light in the dash,,,,, too low wattage. nah.......

front or rear.? my guess, wild is, the rear electric defogger, is dead. the test is so easy. attach any voltmeter to the 2 grid terminal. and turn the defroster on. 12v there? yes, then the grid is open. no> the relay that feeds it is bad. (or its controls or FUSE is blown) check all fuse first.

First check your battery condition and state of charge, next check your battery cables for cleanliness and tightness. Did this happen after jump starting the vehicle? If so the jumper cables may have been hooked up backwards causing the main fuse to blow in the underhood fuse box. Check that next. Then you need to check for a start signal at the starter which is best accessed from the drivers side under the vehicle.

front defog or rear defog the rear is a heater element, it has 2 wire terminals if 12vdc is not present there, the relay feed is bad. if 12vdc is present there the heater grid is open got a voltmeter? (any kind, dmm, dvm, any)