20 Most Recent 2007 Ford Explorer Sport Trac Questions & Answers

Question edited for clarity and spelling of 'console'. Question moved to model category. They are called blend door actuators. You just check them all for operation. You have one that has failed or become unclipped. Details in the link https://www.google.com/search?q=2007+Ford+Explorer+Sport+Trac+blend+door+actuator+diagram ..

The only way to solve strange issues like this is by finding a local auto electrician with a pro grade scan tool computer. They can record all the functions whilst driving and record exactly what happens when it cuts out. These technicians are not normal mechanics. https://www.google.com/search?q=auto+electrician+near+me ..

Alot of tapping with a hammer on drum and pulling the drum it will come off.

The trans may have been over/underfilled, or the wrong trans fluid was put back in. If you weren't really having issues beforehand with the trans anyways.

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Download the owner's manual from Ford.

The whole brake light assembly should be replaced if there is a water leak, or try puddy epoxy to seal it, or even clear epoxy or glue to seal the lens.

if it was a shop that installed it, they unhooked the battery for sure, the next time you start it, turn the key to the on position, and wait for the lights in the instrument cluster to go off, about 45 seconds or so, then start it

check your wheel speed sensor (s) could have a bad or broken wire causing these issues.

easy way to check coil pack and hi tension cable, use a spark plug cut some of the threaded part to leave a 10 mm gap to the center electrode weld on a clamp , clip the clamp to earth attach the Ht cable to the plug, the spark must jump this 10 mm gap. Note don't run the engine longer then one minute as the mixture will be rich and heat up the converter

Suggest you have it check for DTC'S - diagnostic trouble codes . Also do you hear any grinding noise ? I have seen a bad wheel bearing cause this problem . Unwanted ABS activation locks up the wheel . and the lights come on .

Most likely, you need to bleed the cooling system. Did you replace the o-ring with the thermostat? I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/kim_3202917d7c587455

Are you having a battery drain (parasitic draw ) problem ? Battery drains over night ? Is your door open when doing this ? Are you allowing time for the modules on the vehicle to go into sleep mode ? How are you testing this ? Meter hooked up in series ? Are there any DTC'S diagnostic trouble codes . Explain OBD 2 fuse ? Fuse for ECM/PCM number fuse , which fuse box ? under hood ,inside the vehicle ? You would need to look at a wiring diagram to see what all get's power from that fuse .F24 10amp - PCM / EVAP canister vent valve . Will a scan tool communicate with the PCM - powertrain control module ?

There's a cam position sensor on it. You can find a you tube video on it.

I have heard noise like this in the camshaft from lack of lubrication on the 4.0, there were Tech bulletins about it but that was many years ago and I am retired. I would at least consult a local dealer service dept or a shop that really knows this engine and all of it's problems, and it had many. That is entirely your decision, if I were you I would turn up the radio.

Inside the seat cover is a pressure check valve, in many cases it leaks and the pressure bleeds off and the seat will not inflate, it is located in the plastic tubing that inflates the seat bladder.

check operation of fans---and sensors --and recheck operation of pump and thermostat new doesnt mean free from defects