2007 Dodge Sprinter - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Question edited for clarity. Question moved to sub category. Check out the videos, and also the images tab. https://www.google.com/search?q=2007+dodge+sprinter.+turbo+boost+solenoid+location ..

Do you have any indication that the battery is not being charged properly, such as slow cranking speed when trying to start? With the engine not running, the battery (fully charged) should show about 12.5 volts with a voltmeter. With the engine running at normal (not idle) speed, the voltage should be 13.5 - 14.5 volts depending on the state of charge of the battery. At idle, the voltage may drop below 13.5 volts depending on how many accessories you have turned on (headlights, a/c, blower motor, radio, etc). If the 12.8 - 12.9 volts you referenced is at idle with accessories on, but increases when you increase engine speed, you're probably OK.

need to notify division manager or district for dodge and advise of complaint

The Sprinter is designed by Mercedes Benz, and the 'ADR' is probably an abbreviation for German. But it refers to a 'working speed governor'. On the information I found, there is a two-position switch on the left portion of the steering wheel to set an increased idle speed. Depressing the top of this switch engages the governor (increased idle) and turns the light on. Depressing the bottom of the switch turns off the governor (back to normal idle) and turns the light off.

For a cheaper way to obtain the radio security code go here: www.radio-codes.com

Sprinter Front Brake pads change out

check fuse between alternator and battery. under engine.

Not sure what vehicle you are talking about but the firing order will be on the intake front side top facing front bumper. Good luck

Bad solenoid or valve body or TCM. Most likely internal transmission problem(wiring or solenoid). Most likely electrical. Has to go on a scanner..since it resets...

There is no question here???

Best to partially fill the radiator, then start the engine and as the water starts to circulate, slowly add more water until its full. If you just add water until the radiator is full, the engine will develop an air block and may well overheat. You could end up with a seized engine. I presume you are doing this just until you get the vehicle to the repair shop as plain water is NEVER intended to be used long term in any engine. It will overheat fast as the boiling point is well below coolant/water mixture levels and will promote rust and clog the radiator and block. Good luck

a cracked resonator or a split in the charge air hose to the intake will cause what you are describing

You need to access the onboard computer to find out the correct codes that causing this, most respectable mechanics charge around $40.00 to $50.00 to do this , unfortunately that's your cheapest way to correct this problem. good Luck!!!

just a shot in the dark, im thinking that some engineer hid it inside the front driverside wheel well look up there for an access cover . if thats were it is you have to remove the tire and the cover. but your owners manuel shoul say were its located or call the dealership

follow this link to a sprinter forum as there are a few engines to choose from , there will be some one there who will know exactly your vehicle ,hope this helps

Is the leaking at the fuel filter, or somewhere else?Did you replace the rubber hoses on both sides of the filter? If not, check to see if they broke when you pulled old filter, replace any that did.Did any old rubber stick to the metal pipes, when you pulled out the old hoses? That can keep new hoses from sealing, even with good torque on hose clamps.Make sure your hose clamps are tightened properly, with some bulging rubber at the openings in the clamp, but not cutting the rubber into ribbons. It is possible to over-tighten hose clamps, and shred hose rubber. If you see ribbons of hose rubber sticking up out of the metal clamp you have done that. Replace the hose, and the clamps, and make sure the metal pipe is clean, before you carefully tighten the clamps.

Map sensor bad or vacuum &/or power to it missing. Map sensor located on intake manifold or firewall. It has a vacuum hose & electrical connector attached to it. To verify it is bad disconnect electrical connector to it while running. Idle should smooth out & run good. If so need to replace.

You have blown a brake light fuse is my guess due to shorted trailer wiring, The shifter is locked in park unless the brakes are applied and they work. Check the brake lights.

The first one sensor 1 is located just ahead of the converter. The second one sensor 2 (the one you are looking for) is located right after the converter.

P0229 Throttle/Pedal Pos Sensor/Switch C Circuit Interm