The a/c issue along with this over-heating could just be coincidence with the a/c as the a/c and cooling system of the vehicle are "two separate systems". the over-heating problem is more than likely a hose leaking and under heated pressure, it is "spraying" on the passenger side. I'm sure you are having to replenish the coolant "water" very often from the descriptions. If you do in fact have a leaking hose and haven't had any hoses replaced periodically I would then replace all coolant hoses and use half coolant and half water. I wouldn't use the half and half pre-mix as that jilts you out of coolant,A good number of cooling systems use 1 1/2 gallons so use 75% of the gallon of coolant and top off with water. I hope this helps you in your problem. Jesus loves you, John 3:16-17 (KJV)
Have someone check the u joint in the cv shaft for that wheel.. they make a clicking noise when 4wd is engaged.. it puts a load on the shaft.. .. often cheaper to just replace the cv shaft
Do a OHM meter test on the injectors. Unplug the injector leads and touch the OHM meter leads to the 2 pins and get a reading. Could be 14 to 17. something, but should all read the same. The one that shows a different reading, most likely #4, happens to be a bad injector. Replace it. If it doesn't show any different from the rest, #4 injector is just plugged up and needs attention. Take it out and to a pro for a spray pattern test and cleaning. Or just go ahead and change it out with one of the others to find the cylinder you put # 4 injector is now a dead cylinder. NOW you know for a fact it's THAT injector.
the fuel sender in the tank is probably the problem, they do wear out quick on KIA some models.
the blue part covered in the pic is the sender unit for the fuel gauge.
use a old tooth brush not new as this is to harsh, and clean the strips on the sensor you can take this part off to clean all parts are just clipped on.
The fuse box is located behind the panel just to the right of the glove box door, open the glove box door and then remove fuse box panel, the fuse will likely be a 15A and will be marked INT LT or COUR LT.
If you mean TPMS sensor, that monitors air pressure in the tire, when one of those fails, it will usually point to that tire, Those sensors are battery powered, so they do fail. The other side of the issue is the module that reads the sensors, if it fails then it can show all four tires as failing. You can go to a good tire shop and see if they have the tool that reads the sensors to tell you if it is one sensor or not. That way you don't have to pay for dealer diagnostics.
What is model year? If it cranks good but won't start, have a helper crank it while you visually check for spark at the spark plugs. If spark everywhere, check proper fuel pressure. Also, check fuel injector pulse, engine cranking.
I realize some vehicles have coil on plug ignition that makes it a little more awkward to visually check for spark, but, the diagnostics still applies. As far as checking fuel pressure, some fuel rails have no Schrader valve, so it's a little more awkward to check fuel pressure, even so, the diagnostic tests still applies.
Can you check applicable trouble codes? When problem is ongoing, can you check for rpm signal?
if distributer has ever been out most likely it didnt get put back in same position. pull the #1 plug have some one cover plug hole with finger, by hand or with a socket on crank pully turn crank to your right( when facing engine) until you bring timing mark up to tdcas mark gets close air should blow by finger that way you know your on compression stroke pull distrib cap and see where rotor is pointing thats your new number 1 wire the rest accordingly
If it's not overheating, you may need to replace the radiator cap. Also look for small leaks at all your hose ends. Their could be a loose clamp on your hoses.