20 Most Recent 1998 Chevrolet Chevrolet silverado - Page 2 Questions & Answers

The fuel tank pressure switch is on top of the fuel pump and the fuel pump is inside the top of the gas tank.

The best way is to reach up from underneath and pull the lever that the cable is connected to while someone pushes down on the hood. This should release it. I've seen some ppl bust a piece of the plastic grill to get to it, but there is no need. Good luck

You have miss read or typed 2 of the codes P0309 = PO309 = Cylinder 9 Misfire Detected, P186 = nothing, P1860 = TCC PWM Solenoid Circuit Electrical, PO186 = Fuel Temp Sensor ''B''. The one you may have got right P0704 = PO704 = Clutch Pedal Position Switch Circuit.

Autozone.com has free wiring diagrams. Just register your vehicle, it's free. Click on "vehicle repair guides" select the proper link for wiring diagrams. Also, bbbind has free wiring diagrams. Just go to the site, click on wiring diagrams, it will ask for year--make--model all that good stuff. I'm sure there are other sites, also.

Tires may not be balanced properly, or it is in need of an alignment. Some shops will do a free inspection, as it could also be front end parts wearing out. Tie rods, ball joints etc.

These are not related issues. The problem is a really common one. Most likely the circuit board is bad. I sell about 4 a week for these trucks. You can pick them up for around $20 at your local parts store.

driver side

I had similar situation- cam wore loose for indicator. Put it in park, but the cam was so loose it failed to drop in properly. End result is the truck thought it was in R, and vehicle wont start that way. I ended up tearing into column and replacing cables, cam, and multi-function all at once.

check for a bad fuel pump relay. One of the first signs of a failing DME/Fuel Pump is difficult hot starting. Quite often when the DME/Fuel Pump relay starts failing the car will start without problems when it is cold. However, when the car has been operated at normal operating temperature for a while, it will refuse to start. Its worth a try! (usually 30 minutes to 1 hour), the car will again start without problem. Is this the case! Good-Day!

Passenger side, low, on the radiator core support. It's about 5" in diameter, and about 1 1/2" thick. It's probably best to try to get to it from under the truck if your battery is mounted on that side.

Exhaust is one of the hardest things to replace without breaking bolts So the 1 st and up most thing is lubrication get a good penetrating oil liquid wrench,WD40,LPS whatever your parts guy suggests buy the large can now spray ever bolt you can see even the exhaust pipe flange nuts run until hot spray again let cool down over night spray again now you are ready to try to get the bolts out. place a socket with a ratchet 3/8 the handle should be at least 8 inches just slowly pull in a counter clock wise motion until you have reached about 45 lbs torque if bolt has not moved then stop try to tighten bolt a little then repeat on the real stubborn one use a long round steel rod go thru fender well and hit the bolt head really hard this will shock the threads to allow easier removal after all are removed then throw all those bolts away and install new ones with the new manifold and gasket..

try the brake switch adjustment located at top of brake pedal turns anti and clock wise disconnect the wire first clockwise if lights not coming on anti clock if lights are on all the time ,i don't know if this was your problem let me know if this was of any help

Ignition lock cylinder or ignition switch, something is stuck and still giving 12V to the radio when the key is gone

Possible cheaper to go to salvage yard and get a used motor, just to get by, but if push comes to shove, you can open the pulse board on the motor's little square box and see if you can see a break in the solder along the board solder when you wiggle the board/wire connector. A small bit of solder to the break should fix it, but usually is more time consuming that way, but no cost really to you that way. Also you could use an ohm meter and turn it to the audible sound when a connection is made and try it on each small line of solder, that could be faster than visually inspecting the board. The weight of the arm may be making the solder board bend just a 1/32th of an inch and breaking the connection of the solder to the circuit.

This may have to do with the charging system. Do the symptoms lessen as RPM's are increased? What tests have you run/ What have you checked? What have you touched, fixed, or performed recently? Remove and inspect the headlight switch. If the wiring or the plug is dirty, worn, loose, or over-heated, you may need to service or repair the harness. The headlight switch itself may be worn out. Good luck.

Get a Ford but intil then remove the kick panel and there will be a large nut to tighten the switch up.