20 Most Recent 2005 Toyota Sienna LE - Page 9 Questions & Answers

check that the rubber blade is free to move in the arm guides

Unless you know how to take the switch out and disassemble the lock assembly, I would plan on installing a new lock cylinder. Just to give you the heads up if you decide to try disassembling the lock cylinder, keep all the tumblers in order or it will be a lot of work for nothing.

remove the surrounding cowling to ign switch,very important DISCONNECT the battery first making sure the door is open so it doesnt lock on you ,on the top of the ign switch is a protruding pin this needs to be drilled out and completely removed ,long nose pliers will be required after drilling to remove the pin ,the ign switch will then be free to pull out.Drilling this pin will be labourious and time comsuming but is the only way to be able to remove the ign switch.Good luck keep me posted

If you have the key with chip in it , it's going to be the chip and the key is useless...if you have a second key try it.

First things first. Are the car brakes working? Is there a trouble light on in the dash? If the fluid is an oily reddish color it may be brake fluid, in which case the car should not be driven until a repair is done. If the fluid is green or pink in color it may be coolant , in which case have the coolong system checked for leaks.

just take out the battery and you should have enough place.Its only three bolts for the starter,make shure you mark and take off the wires first.Or try from the bottom of the car.Take of the protection plate on the bottom

I'm not familiar with that paticular vehichle, but it sounds like a lighting module or a light relay problem. Hope I can help a little anyway:)

Abs light on means some fault codes stored in your car,TOYOTA IT2 can help you clear the code and turn off the light with airbag.

name them there are a 50 A/T tranny standard symptoms. name what works and what dont. slips. (flare) late shifts early shifts. skips gears, say 1 to 3rd? down shifts wrong, early late or not at all. only shifts hot or cold. passing gear fails down shifts on hills fails. or? name it. the FSM covers the 50 ways to fail (chart) and the cures. and tests. or at alldata.com

3.0L V6 Siennawild guess, the 1MZ engine?141 fed code is. (it means B1S2 heater is bad,or wire to it cut or shorted.) below is fSM spec. worsd. HO2S-12 (Bank 1 Sensor 2) Heater Circuit Malfunction Number of Trips to Set Code: 2 Trouble Code Conditions:Engine started, engine running, and the PCM detected the HO2S-12 heater current exceeded 2 amps, or that it was 0.25 amps or less. Possible Causes:

• * HO2S heater control circuit is open, shorted to ground or power
• * HO2S heater power circuit is open (check power from the relay)
• * HO2S heater is damaged or has failed
• * PCM has failed

then the factory code p1135 same deal,same reasons B1S1 A/F Sensor-11 (Bank 1 Sensor 1) Heater Circuit Malfunction Number of Trips to Set Code: 2 Trouble Code Conditions:Engine started, engine running, and the PCM detected the A/F Sensor-11 (A/FS-11) heater current was less than 0.25A, or that it was more than 8.0A at anytime during the CCM test. Possible Causes:

• * A/F sensor heater circuit or ground circuit is open
• * A/F sensor heater power circuit is open
• * A/F sensor heater is damaged or has failed
• * PCM has failed

bar stool answer.both bank 1 senors (oxygen) are bad. if wires are good.easy answer ,no?the PCM never lies. the current IS ILLEGAL,(BAD)the why takes , inspection and ohms checks , FSM shows this..your next question is where is bank 1, its on cylinder 1 side.your next question is , where is cylinder 1, it the cylinder that sticks out further to crank front pulley.front 134front 246

wow no year stated.. now that is a hard row to hoe. engine will not crank, right?, no car starts unless cranked,! (my car push starts or gravity starts, but not yours i bet) mine is M/T. step 1, check all fuse. first. all below is generic answer, no year, no joy, no details.!!! all modern cars , USA have a park lock out feature. to start cars , (until newer, more on that later) no year, is pain., the brake pedal depressed and brake lamps glowing.? then the PRNDL switch on transmission must work or the The tranny lamp showing wrong, proves PRNDL failure. on older cars, there is a bypass switch for park lock. (on console) all operators guides show this and tell you what to do.!! if not , ? that means not there. RTM! on newer cars, they made the bypass switch ILLEGAL. so is gone, (not posting year, makes all this so hard) on newer cars they added a 3rd permissive, a cable to the key switch that loves to fail on many cars. also the older cars can start in neutral and park so why not try both. (and the bypass, if fitted) the FSM covers this fully and how to test it. Buy it and read. alldata.com will cover the permissive electrics on this feature. here is a primer on this system. http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h18.pdf

does that mean the lever fails to move there. or the transmission parking pawl fails to lock. are your wheels on flat ground.? or against a curb? if wheels are stock move car 1inch and try again. the parking pawl, can not index at any degree, of axle rotation. it has only finite places to stop when parking near curbs. always set hand brake first then park. or the parking pawl can jam.

"What we have here is a failure to communicate". The axle comes with CV joints on the end. You will be buying the rebuilt assembly. Both axle and CV joints will refer to the same part in a front wheel drive application.

I think I would be running the fault codes first to find exactly what is the problem. Missing is from fuel pressure and injectors or HT leads and coils and this will show up in the fault codes.. If you got water in the fuel then may be the filter is blocked so check that out.. If injectors show up it may be low fuel pressure in the manifold so have a pressure done there to check fuel pump/ pressure regulator and filter.

no fault code where? on the Pro OBD2 scan tool screen>? should be in warranty, why not let them fix it? tow it there.? bravo that, first post ever with fast right foot test, you are on the ball. ok, that means this. 1: it's not losing 12vdc power to run the EFI. all lamps are not dim. 2: the fast foot test, implies to me, spark is ok, (unless one cylinder shut down, a bad COP?. but the scanner will see that for sure and did not. Gross misfire, is never unreported by the scan tool. (PCM) gross enough to stall the engine. so fueling issues. id check for flooding or starving for fuel. and bad fuel. Ok so my guess, is its losing fuel pressure or you got bad fuel.

is it a light only issue or park actually fails (car cant roll) are you on flat ground, ? no hills? or where? there should never be park inhibit ever, (reverse of that is a feature) only wheel against a curb or on a huge rock can stop park. so move car 1inch and try again. and never set the park first, always last after hand brake. and 10x more important on hills and curbs. the park has a huge notch that a pawl must fit , so if the tires are blocked, the pawl cant land on a notch. need a video of the pawl i have it, makes undestanding park in 1 second flat.