20 Most Recent 1989 Toyota Corolla - Page 7 Questions & Answers

maybe a relay just keep interchanging them and you should be able to find which one is causing your problem

they usually unscrew from in the trunk and you have to take off the panel for the speakers inside the car it's the one by the back window

was it a new battery if not clean up your terminals they may be corroded and dirty also check out fuses and relays when you turn on the ignition does the radio and lights work if they work you have a connection problem

check your fuse for the instrument panel and ground wires

looking and guessing is frustrating have the fault codes read first then fix the recorded fault

EVAP purge valve problem replace the valve and the solenoid the cost will be the parts and 1 hour labour

Check the fuse

A popular problem with that result is the coolant sensor. Check the full cooling system (fluid etc.)

Not for sure but you should be able to go to YouTube and find your answer hope this helps

sure compressiong gauge if #1 is the setup, you didnt say, firing order is 1 3,4,2. so the crank fires every 180 degrees. so 1 and 4 are both at TDC same time, look with head off. see that. so if you use hose sized to fint spark hole. blow air with lips (lungs) in to both holes, the one that stops you is #1 firing, the #4 blows easy is #4 on the exhaust stroke. if #4 wont blow turn the crank 360 degrees CW clock wise and #1 is now firing. and #1 wont blow. easy no? and no cover off, and all sparks out, if not obvious.

Sounds the a bad cv joint!

ABS, Cruise control, radiator fan, shifter lock, and theft control are the circuits on that fuse. I would start with unplugging the radiator fan, and then possibly the ABS, then install a new fuse and see if it pops again. The cruise should only be able to blow it after you turn it on, so make sure its left off for testing. Theft control likewise should only use that circuit when its active. Radiator fans and their harnesses are frequent causes of that fuse blowing

there is no such thing. drain coolant from the lower hose, you will get 90% of it out. SOME cars have screw in core plugs on the lower side of the block you could theoretically try and remove, but they werent made for this purpose. They were part of the casting process and fill the holes left behind. They often are so tight they will strip or break if you remove them.

Check cv joints on axles.

As long as you are in Neutral or Park disabling the NSS is common and will not harm anything. Just make sure you keep it in Park or Neutral, have the parking brake set and use wheel chocks to prevent the starter from engaging with the trans in gear. Most of the time it is mounted in the gear select mechanism you will need to remove the cover pins/bolts/clips to access it.

Is your air inlet on REFRESH or RECIRC? are you parked in a garage or outside? If this is only when you first start the vehicle in the cold it could just be the extra rich warmup/high idle exhaust not getting completely burned by the catalytic converter.

Year?