2004 Proton Gen-2 - Page 9 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

after read up on this engine fitted im guessing its an automatic. there are a few things to check first is to check the MAF sensor. unplug it and start engine. if it revs after being removed then it could be this. other one is the D don't use it place it in number 1 and see if the revs go up and vehicle moves. the other is the throttle sensor. is there any change on the movement of the engine while moving the accelerator, does the engine change sounds etc.

fuel pumps are generally in the fuel tank now

have a compression test done to eliminate head gasket or cracked head check relay, fan fuses 2 at least, check wiring, check/replace coolant temp SENSOR unit have a pressure test done on the cooling system to check for leaks replace the radiator ( blocked cores , missing fins )

the synchro dog is not staying engaged for several reasons worn teeth on the dog, , worn inlet shaft bearings , gear not going fully into gear from incorrect selector adjustment

It sounds like you need your timing needs adjusting/ good luck K...

check your coolant or heater core did your heater blower stop working

The first thing you need done now is to have the engine control system module scanned for fault code(s), when the check engine light was turned on a fault code was stored in memory.

run the fault codes best place to start to determine a problem

possible ECM failure run the fault codes to find what was damaged find an accredited auto electrician as only back yard mechanics put batteries in wrong

0.10 amps is only 100 milliamps, and that is not enough to drain a battery. In fact, if your Ute has an engine computer, that may account for the amp draw. I'm not familiar with this car, as it is not sold in the US as that name. On some US cars, that circuit would be known as IOD (ignition off draw), and specifically for clock, radio pre sets, computer memory, and security parts if used. It is said as long as the amp draw is less than 150 milliamps (0.150A), everything is fine. So, probably the engine computer, or radio pre-sets, or security apparatus, hey?

Now he needs to get the key programmed to the immobilizer. Only problem is, he has to take the car to get the key programmed to the car at the garage. Option 1, wife tows him to the dealer (40 mile trip - wife never towed before) option 2, Somehow I temporarily bypass the immobilizer and mate drives car to garage himse

The best place to get hold of a proton service manual is to download it from the website http://www.repairservicemanuals.com/Proton

Pop in the black plastic trim piece behind the door opener handle

code p 0171 refers to system too lean bank 1===causes ---intake / exhaust leak---AIR system---MAF/VAF sensor ---fuel pressure / pump/ regulator--injectors---heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) code p 172 refers to system too rich bank 1====causes ---intake blocked ---EVAP canister purge valve ---fuel pressure --- EGR system--- injectors---HO2S as the HO2S is in both codes , check/ replace it as it reports to the ECM for air /fuel mixture settings and if faulty it can set to too lean or too rich or swap between the extremes

You need to determine if the sender is bad or the gauge is. If you can get to the signal wire at the fuel tank for the gauge (this goes inside tank to sender that provides a variable ground circuit) ground that wire briefly to see if dash gauge rises. If so, part inside tank is bad. If not, gauge or some part of its wiring circuit is bad.

What is a Proton?

what is the question ??

Most vehicles this new can't be programmed at home like the older cars, you must have the dealer do the job with a special scan tool.

Use a continuity meter to check.

For general instructions please follow the link. The fuel tank must be removed or at least dropped down https://www.automd.com/62/how-to-replace-a-fuel-pump