20 Most Recent 2004 Honda Civic 1.7 Questions & Answers

Here's a Autozone repair guide on your head torque. Repair Guides Engine Mechanical Components Cylinder Head AutoZone com

It could be a bad headgasket or a stuck thermostat.

Get a manual- that is the safest way to find these specs. Some libraries have Chilton Manuals that you can use at the library. Just photocopy the information.

Change your throttle position sensor

Do you have fuel pressure and spark? Is the fuel filter old?

Where does the "roaring" sound like it is coming from? Can you feel any vibrations anywhere in the car? Under the seat? At your feet?

expensive guessing there ,wow ! why not find out why ,by using diagnosis, its far cheaper, i promise. engine stalls: A: can you save the stall>? with a fast right foot action???? yes, then its not 12vdc power lost to EFI system. no, then it must be lost spark or lost fueling or flooding. did you do the full 60k mile tune up yet? and the 90k? ever interval? your mech. can't find this? is that what you are asking.??? stalls list, near impossible to answer not knowing, test A: above ! but here goes. 1: lost 12vdc power, EFI dies. engine dies. volt meter saves day. 2: lost spark, (cant save stall, test A, for this or lost 12vdc) 3: lost fuel pressure , stall can be proven with using test fuel at stall point. (spray fuel into intake) below 30PSI fuel, on all cars is bad. 4; flooding, from too much fuel pressure, say over 60psi, causes flooding, leaking injectors, so an injector leak down and balance test shown in the FSM. See soaking wet spark plug tips (free easy check)??? flooding. fast foot easy prevent stall, ? yes, ISC stuck closed. clean it harder fast foot save is EGR stuck open. clean it. impossible fast foot save is , #1,2,3 above. all above can be tested easy and with cheap tools. the engine runs by order. "classic list" do the tune up. 1: 12vdc to EFI ,key on, all the time. 2: engine compression at spec, or 150psi. 90k timing belt ignored? 3: good spark and timed right. (strobe light test) 4: good fueling (not lost , or flooding) 5: EGR not stuck open, ISC not stuck closed. this gets most stalls. if fuel pressure is at bad shunt levels, +60psi , due to the fuelpressue regulators stuck closed. (in side tank it is so is fuel filter.) the engine will flood , i check fuel pressure. way before any ECU swaps. infact i check all ECU inputs first. and fuel pressure must be in spec range too. good luck.

The coil is a lifetime item. You would only change it because of failure.

automatic transmission blues? if yes, that is called FLARE. gross transmission slip but stalling is one more non related, issue, so this is 2 problems. why not check for spark first. x4 cylinders then check spark plug tips for dry or wet. if wet and spark is good use WOT magic secret unflood mode stated in the operators guide. if not flooding and is dry plugs, and spark is good you lost fueling, dead dead fuel pump or 12vdc dont reach it. trans,is 2nd cant drive with dead engine.

If you can't remove the filter by hand just use a common oil filter wrench. The filter is easy to access and remove. When you buy your new filter you can find the correct size filter cap wrench which is most likely a 64 mm.

google finds this 1 second, did you try?idle controls failures.idle controls fail for many reasons.ISC unplugged, is my wild and useless guess.....the ECU only knows what tests (monitors fail) in this case IDLE speed is out of controlthe scan tool shows you (freeze frame) when and how it failed.1: ISC sat for 1 weak and the nasty gum in it went solid, causing tthe valve to stick, (very common)and not connected? the wire connector to it?2: you left off vacuum hoses or put them back wrong?and now there is an air leak, making the ISC out of control/?old post. doing 60day, zero posts

i bet its fix already , thanks for post back. that you did.did you google this?its a bad speed sensor. 511 is idle too high.vacuum leak?is idle too high......lots of things can cause this. but first is it too high, expecially hot.or the ISC is unpluged or sticky , (air valves sticking idle air control valves)

What happened before, nizam ? Was the old belt still together, it didn't break with the engine running, did it? Most, but not all, 4 cylinder engines are "interference" engines, meaning if not in perfect time by the timing belt, then piston tops and valves can strike each other and cause major internal damage, bent or broken valves, sometimes even pokes a hole in the piston. Big trouble, you see. That's why I ask if you were just replacing an old belt with a new one. If that's the case, go back over your procedure, think carefully if you did everything right. Personally, I would never attempt any such job without a repair manual to refer to. Every manufacturer has their own unique way for removal and installation, and it's a very handy checklist to go back over and be certain everything is done-down to the last screw and electrical connection...and so on.If you appreciate all that, and you think you got the timing spot on, and you rechecked all electrical connections for sure connected, then it's back to basics: gas, air, spark, and compression-that's all the cylinders need to burn the mixture, and zap ! engine running. Listen for the pump, injectors have to be working, check for spark, etc, etc. Always good to know your engine compression figures, anyway, how good the internal workings are. So if you got gas and spark, do a quick compression test. A decent compression tester will cost about $30-$40. Good compression will tell you the valves and piston rings are good, doing their job, and the timing is within range of being right.Good luck. Let me know what you find.