Top 20 2006 Honda Accord 3.0 - Page 5 Questions & Answers

Sounds like a fuse. Can't tell you which one, but check all of the under dash fuses and the two fuse boxes under the hood, too.Here are the two under hood fuse boxes. https://www.hondapartsnow.com/parts-list/2000-honda-accord-4dr_exv6-ka-4at/control-unit-engine-room.html?PNC=7 (part 10) https://www.hondapartsnow.com/parts-list/2000-honda-accord-4dr_exv6-ka-4at/control-unit-cabin.html?PNC=6 (part 5)

Okay, so now you know not to pull the PCM fuse. It won't reset the codes, the parts stores read and reset codes with codereaders for free. ANYTIME you CEL comes on, take it there and write down the codes.

In most cars newer than about 2000, this triggers the security shutdown. What about a dead battery? Why doesn't that trigger the lockdown? Because the computer monitors battery strength 24/7 and it knows the difference between sudden loss of power and slow ***** of the battery.

So IF that's what happened—and you should ALWAYS put make, model, engine, and year in any question; there is no one-size-fits-all about this kind of stuff—if that's what happened, someone who can access the deep levels of the PCM will have to unlock it. That means dealer or certified master mechanic shop will full repair equipment including computers.

It sounds like the transmission is defective, it is slipping due to worn clutch packs.

The fact that you've had no ignition or dashboard lights when you've turned the ignition key is mainly pointing to :

• A failed battery.

• A discharging battery via a failed alternator (the rectifier can burn out, causing the battery to rapidly discharge).

• A 'bad earth'

Start with the easiest thing first. You say that your car started with a boost - a jump start - which suggests that your non-starting problem may be due to the battery or the 'earth'. When you connect another battery to your own via cables, your car is using the other car as an 'earth'. A quick check - if you have battery jump cables - Connect a jump cable to your battery negative terminal - the earth terminal (black cable) and connect the other end to any suitable metal point on the engine/bodywork of your car, and try and start the engine. If it starts, it's now telling you that the problem is that of a bad earth. A 'bad earth' can be caused by corroded cables- check both battery cables for a greenish/blue corrosion and/or broken strands in the wire. Bear in mind that if you disconnect your battery you may lose your radio code. But .. loosen and turn each battery terminal to clean it and fully retighten. Then check the battery earth lead - the black cable - where it attaches to the engine/bodywork. Loosen and clean the cable and attaching bolt. If a car has a 'bad earth' it can cause sluggish/non starting problems. If you're quite happy that the battery terminals, cables and earthing point on the engine/bodywork are clean, tight and ok ... suspect the battery. Don't rush off and buy a new battery. Get somebody to jump start your car and then drive to a workshop and ask them to check it out whilst the battery is in situ - they can also check the alternator output at the same time.

Turn on the backup lights and check for voltage at the wires to the bulb. The one that lights the 12 volt test light is the hot wire.

You can purchase a remote button from most parts stores (Pep Boys, Oreillys, Autozone) that will attach directly to the starter and allow you to crank the engine without having to use the ignition switch

The pickup and ignition module can cause this, replace the distributor pickup first. Also make sure the system has power when the key is on.

Try 1994 honda accord engine diagram Google Search

Check out the crankshaft and camshaft position sensors. Those are critical for the computer. They help determine when/which spark plug is fired and which/when the injectors squirts it's load. They tend to go bad when they get hot.

The heater core could be clogged, or air in the system due to coolant leak.

follow this link http://upkeep.us/OBDII/OBD2/Honda/piart.php?art=838

Gap 0.044"

I would replace the relay, they are notorious for this type of issue.

Hi,there could be a problem with the sift solinoid,if you look on u-tube there is a vidio there showing you how to test it,good luck hope this was some help.

Sounds about right based on changes/checks made.

Take it off and blow it out

have a front end and suspension check for loose /worn ball joints , steering rod ball joints , failing wheel bearings check tires for belt separation , bulges and other defects,including balance check wheel alignment as it can be castor wobble cause from failing coil springs

oil leaks around the filter generally mean that the oil filter is too tight and the gasket is damaged , filter installed on a dry gasket, -damaging the gasket, lip of the filter is faulty--manufacturing problem, the old gasket for the filter was not removed before fitting a new filter--- gasket squeezing out remove the filter, best replace with a new filter, remove any old gasket stuck to the housing, put a thin film of oil on the new gasket and screw up to touch then 1/4 turn ( fitting instructions on the box or filter) do not over tighten

Yes the tank must be dropped, but not entirely removed, the sensor is on the top of the tank.

Visit the on-line store, know as reliable-store, they have the repair manuals. I'm sure you will get the solution of your problem. Best Manuals