20 Most Recent 2008 GMC Canyon Crew - Page 6 Questions & Answers

Hi, have you checked the alternator? Voltage should be at least 14 volts at battery with engine running. If not, or you don't have a voltmeter, remove the alternator and take to parts store for testing.
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the only thing that I can think of doing is to open up the zerk fitting ( bleeder ) and trying to force the inner pad inward ( which will compress the piston and release the pressure ). I hate to suggest a big flat blade screw driver to use as a lever, but there is not much room in there to do the compression. try and be careful not to mark/nick up the disk as this will/can cause pre-mature pad wear. if both sides are locked up -- just repeat the same step on both sides. after things get freed up it will be important to figure out why so much pressure is building up in the brake lines,, you might try and flush brand new fluid all the way through the lines and see if that fixes the problem.

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IN TRUNK UNDER SPARE TIRE

what is your complaint?

This usually happens because we use key fabs/remotes but occassionally we do still need to use the locks to prevent the locks from corroding and seizing up. You can spray a graphite lubricant into the lock and working the key into the lock.There is a product called locklube which should be available at your local auto parts vendor.You spray it into the lock lube and work the key in the lock. If this process does not work the lock may need to removed and replaced or rebuilt.

Trouble Code: P1516 (2.8L L4 VIN 8 Std)
Throttle Position Miscalibrated

Number of Trips to Set Code: 1

OBD II Monitor Type: CCM Details
Indicators: MIL Details

• CCM Details

Trouble Code Conditions:

• The ignition is ON.
  
• The ignition voltage is greater than 8 volts.
  
• The system is not in the Battery Save mode.
  
• The engine is running.
  
• DTC P0068 is not set.
  

Possible Causes:

• Use the J 35616 Connector Test Adapter Kit for any test that requires probing the PCM harness connector or a component harness connector.
  
• Poor connections at the PCM or at the component--Inspect the harness connectors for a poor terminal to wire connection. Refer to Testing for Intermittent Conditions and Poor Connections in Wiring Systems for the proper procedure.
  
• For intermittents, refer to Intermittent Conditions .
  

they sell kits with all the instructions included. also if u go to the link below another owner has posted the whole job with lots of pictures.
http://www.355nation.net/forum/how-exterior/371-how-install-aftermarket-foglights-appear-stock.html

Not that I know of, but I feel your pain. I use pliers to compress the spring and then put needlenose visegrips on the cable to hold it back. Then slip it in the slot. Does this make sense?

Sounds like your security system is cutting out the starter circuitry, unfortunately if the security module is going bad it may only test bad when it is causing the problem, this is a sure sign of the alarm cut off, perhaps you need to have an alarm specialist check out the vehicle, sometimes you cut out the middleman if you take it directly to an auto alarm security installers facility, check the yellow pages for info in your area. And be sure you bring both remotes if you have them.
Use an alarm company that sells and installs the same alarm that is in your car, if yoyu are having trouble finding any of this information visit the dealership where you bought the vehicle and ask who they use for this repair.
I hope this works, i would try to take care of this soon as the vehicle may shut down one day and leave you stranded in a place God forbid you may not want to be in.
Happy Motoring!!

There are some possibilities which you will have to check in this case:--
1) First of all check the power and voltage to the battery.with meter it will show exact 12 volt if the battery is charged.if the voltage is less get the battery charged at local auto repair shop.if the battery is internally drained and not getting charged then its time to replace the battery.
2) When you crank the truck do you see spark coming at the spark plug? if no then its time to check the spark plugs and coil pack.if the spark plugs are not worn out and looks new then its time to check coil pack.the spark plugs gets power to spark from coil pack.
3) The other thing to check in this case is the starter solenoid of the truck.
If the battery is charged and you start the truck then it gives power to the starter to start the truck .but if starter is faulty or not connected properly then truck will not start.
4) The other thing to check in this case is fuel in the truck .if there is fuel in the truck then check the blockages in the fuel pump if the fuel pump looks proper then check the fuel filter above the fuel pump.
5) If all the above possibilities mentioned above checked out OK/perfect then its a electrical issue and the wiring's in the truck needs to be checked.the truck gets power from the battery to get started.so the wires from battery needs to be checked one by one.


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I don;t think anyone will have good answer here since all your signals comes thru computers. There is no fuse for this. Unless you have something else in the lighting system inadvertantly turned on then it is going to have to be diagnosed using a bidirectional scan tool. You should have a code stored in the body control module that will help in the direction your going to have to go.

under the hood right in front of battery is a fuse box

your fuel pump is in the gas tank unfortunately

hi from uk this fault most likely the bulb has blown in high level brake lamp /3rd lamp as you say as you mention this car is 08 reg check the warranty period as it may/should be dealers repair ?for no charge ps if you or other drivers have a habit of sitting in standing traffic with foot brake on instead of use of handbrake ? this is prime cause of brake light bulbs o/heating and blowing element in bulb due to the actual b/light element is high wattage so burns brighter observe how many cars have one or more b/lights not working as you drive ? also bear in mind this is an offence and m o t failure as these light are obligatory (must have working ) and you can face a penalty if stopped by police

near the throttle body there is an adjusting screw(flat head) for air fuel mixture, it's on a deep cavity sometimes with a cover, adjust counterclockwise will increase the idle.

The pulsing only happens when the vehicle detects slippage (say on gravel, dirt, snow/ice) under normal driving braking you will not have any pulsating. Also if you have had $1300 in brake work the pulsating could have been warped rotors as well. I have seen the ABS light stick on for other reasons, faulty speed sensor or bad sensor and even light just sticking. Try putting it on some loose ground an braking hard so the truck slides a bit and see if the pulsating comes back its working fine, if not you still have an issue (could be your pump as well)

If the light is continuing to flash the 4X4 is not engaged, most likely the motor that engages it on the transfer case is either stuck or defective.