20 Most Recent 2005 Ford Focus 2.0 - Page 6 Questions & Answers

When you say will not crank over,do you mean it won't run or the starter won't turn the engine to start? IF the starter is turning the engine BUT it won't start,look on the side panel forward of the passenger door under the glove compartment area,you will see a hole.put your finger in and push down on the fuel reset switch,the car should run now.

What year is your focus ? Maybe controlled by a GEM - electronic module .

hiya cars dont have relays for brake lights as its too low power. If you have power across the switch you may want to check the connections to the bulb holders and then check the bulbs themselves. If no power at bulb holders you need to check the loom which, unless you have had some welding or similar disruption would be very odd. Check for a good earth at rear bulb holders too, quite oftena poor earth will cause many faults.

Has the vehicle been in a crash or minor accident recently? Have you installed any amps or anything under the seats? Are seatbelt tensioners working properly? These are typical issues. Here is a list of airbag codes: Air Bag Fault Code Table AIR BAG DIAGNOSTIC MONITOR FAULT CODE PRIORITY TABLE Priority Code Component/Fault Description Highest -- No Air Bag Lamp - Inoperative Lamp Circuit or No Ignition Voltage to Diagnostic Monitor ' -- Continuous Air Bag Lamp - Diagnostic Monitor Disconnected or Inoperative ' 12 Low Battery Voltage ' 13 Air Bag Circuit or Crash Sensor Circuit - Shorted to Ground ' 21 Safing Sensor - Not Mounted on Vehicle Properly ' 22 Safing Sensor Output Circuit - Shorted to Battery Voltage ' 23 Safing Sensor Input Feed/Return Circuit Open ' 24 Open in Circuit 944B or Low Resistance in Crash Sensor(s) ' 32 Driver Side Air Bag/Safing Sensor Circuit - High Resistance or Open ' 33 Pin 7 Not Grounded at Diagnostic Monitor ' 34 Driver Side Air Bag/Safing Sensor Circuit - Low Resistance or Shorted ' 35 Low Resistance Across Pins 8 and 9 at Diagnostic Monitor ' 41 Crash Sensor Circuit - High Resistance or Open ' 44 RH Crash Sensor - Not Mounted to Vehicle Properly ' 45 Center Radiator Crash Sensor - Not Mounted to Vehicle Properly ' 46 LH Crash Sensor - Not Mounted to Vehicle Properly ' 51 Diagnostic Monitor Internal Thermal Fuse - Blown and Short to Ground No Longer Exists ' 52 Backup Power Supply - Voltage Boost Fault ' 53 Internal Diagnostic Monitor Fault Lowest -- Rapid Continuous Flashing of Air Bag Lamp - All Crash Sensors Disconnected

I have a 2002 Ford focus lx and my timing belt and tentioner needs to be replaced when I bought the car the guy just told me it was the belt I did try to turn it over but it will not start i put my hand over the fuel in jecter it back fire's and I was told that my timing is way off can you tell me what is wrong with my car the belt looks good and I'm getting fire to the spark plugs what do you think could be wrong. Lucas pitt

This has 1 bolt use an extension grab with pliers

There's an emissions sticker under the hood that tells you if not auto zone or the Internet will tell you

Look at the timing cover , if it's metal and held on with several bolts it has a chain , if its a plastic cover it has a belt. If a belt align the timing marks on the pulley and cover,align the camshaft gear mark on the head or block.

It's right there in your owner's manual

The fan switch maybe shot and also the compressor may have Leaked out the r34 gas and now there's not enough to keep the compressor working?

take it to charging system specialist shops auto electricians while the current may be good , the items to check are voltage (AC or DC ) and the voltage being produced voltage should be 14.5-14.8 volts dc at 1500rpm is there a drain in the battery when everything is off

Did you gap the plugs? Did you use a torque wrench to tighten them? Are you positive you've got the right wires on the right plugs?

I, feel sorry for you, after reading your problem, but don't worry you visit the Reliable-Store they will help you for sure. Ford Focus 2000 2007 Factory Workshop Service Manual

Look at the housing there are tangs that fit in the other side shift the top so the rubber seal releases the top then pull up and out to releaseit

You must take out the original battery because if it burned out the cells it will draw from the jump battery it doesn't matter that the cables are on the battery if still no start no click no remote Check for corrosion on all cables down to the starter and the block ground also the ground strap at the nose of the starter and the power distribution box cable from the alternator and battery clean it if the car still doesn't start that whining could've been the alternator check for battery voltage if none or very little this could be your problem and driving it just burned out the cells in your battery

Make sure the Number plate isn't obscuring sensor as ford use bigger plates?