2015 BMW 3 Series - Page 5 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Siezed pumps are a nightmare.

Spray with penetrating fluid, let that soak for 5 minutes then use a length of 3x3 wooden post and hit hard with a lump hammer. It will eventually break out.

The pump is alloy the block is cast so you'll be fine.

It has a timing CHAIN, not a belt. ALL BMWs have timing chains, unless it is an OLDER BMW, which only then might have a belt-driven timing.

Hi Mountview,
First thing I'd suggest you do is delete the fault codes from your scanner....The engine management computer stores them, and they may be from your old engine?
Run another scan and if the codes come up again check the cables to the sensor. Defective parts are not unknown, especially where I am....
The anti theft device may have kicked in and be inhibiting starting....This will require resetting on your scanner.
Once you've checked all of that, bleed the diesel system, as if there's any air in the fuel line, it won't start
Regards Johngee10

Sounds like a rely or fuse, check you manual for the fuse box location and then check the fuse for the horn. If the fuse is good, check for votage with a voltage meter at the horn when you have someone else honking it and see if you are getting 12 volt to the horn itself. If you are getting voltage then the horn itself is bad. Sometime just tapping the horn can make it start working again.

Have you check the THERMOSTAT VALVE?

Jambo. Can you turn the steering wheel? If it has locked the wheel, you are going to need to break the lock cylinder with a hammer and screw driver and turn it. If it is free, you can get under the dash and use the wires to start the car and replace the ignition cylinder later. Use this diagram if you need. Feel free to let me know if you need anything more.

try this url http://www.torrentdownloads.net/searches/bmw+316i+1+6+auto++e36++service+manual+1992+1998 let me know if that helped ?

i would check the plugs make sure got fire at every plug then check the dist cap sounds like a spark problem

Sounds very much like the air mass sensor is not right. This is found on a collar on the air ducting immediately after the air filter box. It ahas an electrical connection running to it. Whilst the engine is warm at running at idle (surge and slow) disconnect the electrical plug. Do not worry this will in no way harm the engine. The engine should soon resume a steady rate. It might be higher or lower than normal but it will be steady. If this happens then it is a certainty that the air mass sensor is at fault and should be replaced.

First of all try to Jump Start it first to see if it will start, and than if you have strange codes after that we can try to diagnose it.

The fuel filter is generally in the same location for all of the cars - located on the left side of the car, somewhat underneath the engine.The fuel pump is located in the top of the tank, and pumps fuel out the top as well. For exact step by step instructions on how to replace fuel filter.please click on the link below:-- http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarticles/E36-Fuel-Filter/E36-Fuel-Filter.htm ----------- Thanks. Keep updated for any more query. You can rate this solution and show your appreciation.

yes i think so

a hitch...why,... you don't like the transmission? You have an extra one and are just dying to install it after this one goes **** up.

brown=ground on all german cars

red, black=power

I had a similar problem. The power loss is very common. I finally got tired of it all and hired a lemon law attorney. BMW bought back my vehicle. http://www.attorneyforcalifornialemonlaw.com

is it just idling roughly or hesitate when accelerating? You may have a clogged cold start injector in which you could have poor performance before the vehicle heats up to its operating temp but once it reaches its peak temp will run fine. Did your servicing include a tune up and/or fuel system cleaning if not I would recommend one.

with engine idling at normal temp open top of filler and top up to between marks, occaisonally turning steering from lock to lock.

If prop shaft is turning you obviously have a differential problem, open it up and have a look

19" s
baller

Before you remove them, if your car is starting ok and idling smoothly on all cylinders they will be ok. If you have a misfire for 15 or so seconds, one of your heaters might be duff. If the car is difficult to start and is very rough to begin with, you have two out. (This is assuming your injectors are in good condition because they can give trouble on cold starts also.) The easiest way to find a bad heater is to remove the strap or cable that connects them all and using a multi meter check each one. The one that gives no reading is your problem. If you get your replacement from a spares shop you will pay a fraction of the manufacturers price. (Replace all four if you can afford it. It will save you the bother of having to to the job again in a couple of months and it will give you some spares for an emergency.)

Should be a 318i, what is the year? Have you checked relays, and depending on the year, these cars have ews modules that is a bit tricky to bypass. Unless your experienced at this on BMWs do not bypass ignition system. Hook the system back up using the factory key and try again.