Top 20 2001 Mitsubishi Montero Sport - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Basically this means that the oxygen sensor downstream of the catalytic converter on bank 2 is detecting that the converter is not working as efficiently as it should be (according to specs). It is part of the vehicle emissions system.
Symptoms You will likely not notice any drivability problems, although there may be symptoms such as a rough/hard idle when cold.
Causes A code P0431 may mean that one or more of the following has happened: The catalytic converter is no longer functioning properly An oxygen sensor is not reading (functioning) properly There is an exhaust leak

Possible Solutions Inspect for exhaust leaks. Next step is to measure the voltage at the oxygen sensor on Bank 2. In fact, it would be a good idea to test each oxygen O2 sensor while you're at it. One thing to note is that many vehicle manufacturers offer a longer warranty on emissions-related parts. So if you have a newer car but it's out of it's bumper-to-bumper warranty, there still may be warranty on this type of problem. Many manufacturers give a five year, unlimited mileage warranty on these items. It's worth checking into.

Good Luck =)

Mitsubishi... | 86 views | 0 helpful votes

The sensor is very easy to remove. Usually it is just a bolt shaped sensor with one wire attached. An open end wrench can remove it, but be sure to have the replacement ready because the hole that is opened when removing the sensor will probably leak fluid until you replace the sensor with the new one. Have a rag ready.

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These are activated by little push in switches located on the door frame. When you close the door, it pushed the pin switch in and disconnects the power from the inside lights. You should also check the light switch on the dash. There is a setting on the headlight switch usually that allows you to turn on the inside dome lights by that switch. It may be in that position and will keep your inside lights on until the switch is returned back to the normal position.

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Are they all out or just one? If there all out it's probably just a fuse, check the fuse panel..If it's just one the pull the cluster out and replace the bulb check for a loose wire

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On a steering wheel are 2 pins. These pins turn the signals off as the wheel returns from making a left or right hand turn. They reset the blinker mechanism by bumping the blinker arm and pushing the arm back to the center position. You can sometimes see these little pins that reset the blinker if you look between the steering wheel and the steering wheel column. There is a little gap where the steering wheel is enabled to turn with out rubbing the column. You will also see a circular copper plate in there where the horn makes electrical contact by a little flat tension arm and rubs the copper surface as the wheel spins in either direction.
To repair a damage blinker pin, the steering wheel most likely has to be pulled off and the pin repaired and steering wheel returned back onto the column. Not a big job at all, just more of a pain then anything. Some steering wheels are on pretty tight on their splines and a puller may be needed. If the pins are still intact in the back of the steering wheel, then the blinker mechanism has a problem and is not be triggered to return to center by the pins.

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EGR problem = causes the limp mode.

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I'll have to do some research and get back with you, may have to send away for the information.

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Check for a possible broken connection or plug not pushed in completely.

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have the autobox fluid level checked , as the age of vehicle is 15 years i would have the fluid changed unless you know for sure its been changed in the last 20k miles

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Reset it, under the dash is a switch, just push it to the other side. it is triggered every 50K miles so you will bring your vehicle in for a checkup and the dealer makes money. lol

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Hi June, I'm glad to help!
June if it were me and if its summer time where you are I would simply bypass the heater core with a hose and fittings and worry about it before winter time. BUT, if it is in fact winter time where you are, then this is a big JOB, the entire dash will need to be removed and the A'C Housing will need to be removed. NOTE: I have never worked on one of these vehicles so I want you to understand that sometimes there is an easy access panel that can be removed and pull the heater core out which only takes a few minutes. NOTE: I'm not saying your vehicle has an access panel but just want you to be aware that some vehicles has it. Hope this helps and have an awesome day June! NOTE: I will do some research and if I find that your vehicle does have the access panel I will post it. BUT, if I do not post anything about it then that means you do not have the access panel. Have a good day!

Mitsubishi... | 799 views | 1 helpful votes

Not uncommon for the MkIV to have transmission problems; have your mechanic change the fluid and filter, and at the same time check the shift solenoids and the connecting harness - internal parts.
I got 2 TDIs and had both of them run into very similar problems. Make sure your mechanic is using the correct fluid type and filter!

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You will need an ODB code reader, which will connect to the receptacle under the driver side of the dashboard, usually just below where the steering column is. The ODB reader will display a series of codes, which you can look up online to help determine what fault your vehicle's computer is sensing.

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Here's a link to the issues associated with a P0174 code:

There's a bit of a punch list of stuff that could be causing this code. If you have never changed the O2 sensors on this car that is where I would start; replace all of them. Get OEM exact replacements versus "universal" fit O2 sensors.
The Mass Airflow Sensor (MAF) may be dirty. There is specially formulated cleaner for removing any built up mung on the sensor.
The PCV system can be checked for proper flow. Replace the PCV and/or clean the system if there is no valve.
Bring the car in and have the injectors professionally cleaned.

You're probably in the neighborhood of 165-170K. If you've never done any preventive or regular maintenance then there could be a lot of issues with your car. The P0174 is a lean condition. It could be bogus inputs to the engine management computer (via bad O2 sensors and/or a dirty or bogus MAF sensor). It could be really dirty injectors because they've never been cleaned and if you've been filling up with non-top tier fuel (because you're saving 2 cents a gallon) then it's a sure bet the injectors are dirty. Running lean comes from air leaks into the manifold post MAF sensor. This could be from rotted vacuum hoses or cracked/broken vacuum fittings. There's just too many possibilities to be able to nail it down for sure. Use the link and the info there to start your trouble shooting.

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Check the fuel pressure and compression and O2 sensors

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go to my profile and "follow" me. I will pull that info out for you tomorrow. (I just "followed" you so I can find you again to get you the info)

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If you look up the fuse lacations or wiring diagrams it should give you an idea on the location if not a definate location. they are usually located by the fuse panels. They also usually look like a plastic pill shaped bubble with a wire running through it. hope this helps.

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Hi Sc, The job is labour intensive and may solve the problem. I wonder if the fluid in the tranny has ever been replaced? It's meant to be replaced at least once a year. If it smells burned have it replaced. Ask your shop to check the gearbox and engine mountings and in the event of your vehicle having rear wheel drive, the universal joints on the prop shaft. Regards John

Mitsubishi... | 349 views | 1 helpful votes

Buzzing is from a cracked filter or low on fluid check level with engine running in park if full and has bubbles on stick the filter is cracked

Mitsubishi... | 24 views | 0 helpful votes

On the fuse panel, there will be written information which fuse runs the wiper motor.

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