2010 Chevrolet HHR - Page 6 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Chances are, it's one of two things... Either your battery is bad or you have a dead short, causing the battery to drain. Most auto parts stores, will check your battery for free. I'd say that's the best place to start. Good luck!

You have to take to the dealer. they have a special tool they plug into your car to match the fob to your vehicle.

most towing operators can break into your car for you without tearing anything up for around $40-cheers Denny p s they are professionals and do it all the time.

This just means that a portion of the circuit board has been damaged. You can try opening it up and removing the battery and cleaning it out. If that doesn't help then you will have to buy a new one.

What is the problem? Not draining?

have engine code retrieve

Yes.The OBD connector for the scanner is powered by the same circuit as the cig lighter. If the fuse is blown, the testing facility can not access the computer on the car.

Hola, Tengo Una HHR Y Cada Vez Que Me Aparece El T/C Me Empieza A Dar Golpeteos En La Caja Cada Vez Que Meto Drive Y Al Avanzar Da El Golpeteo De 1 A 2 Despues De Esto Tambien Me Aparece El Check y Al Aparecer Esto Ya no Enciende Desde El Control Remoto Yme Gasta Un Poco Mas De Gasolina Me Han Dicho Varias Personas Que Son Los celenoides Y Tengo Esa Duda

A year and engine size would help but 15 lb-ft should be fine. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

Google the OBD Code

will need more info on vehicle

The MAF sensor is acting up on it. It start and run at idle but when you go to accelerate it doesn't want to do anything. The MAF isn't doing it's job anymore of telling the ECM that there's more fuel needed to the engine. Replace it, which is mounted near the air cleaner box, and the car should run just fine after that.

Hi Regina,if you can drive to Autozone,they will scan your car for free and tell you what that light means.

I would immeditately check and make sure that there is coolant in the radiator. Do it after the engine cools down.

i'm not sure what sensor ur talking about but usually the problem is with the resistor or blower motor to check which one remove connector from the blower motor located on the passenger side under the dash behind the glove box check with a test light to see if ur getting power and ground to the blower on all speeds if u are replace blower motor if not replace the resistor or may be called blower module if that doesn't repair it u will need a control head

It will feel loose by hand, when you check it

Do u have a heads up view? Where u can see the speedometer thru uur windshield?

Two areas will cause a leak you can here, the first and most common is the power brake vacuum booster, it leaks when the pedal is pressed. The other is the vacuum control valve for the heater/AC system in the dash.

Sounds like some thing was left off or knocked off, i would take it back and ask them to check this vacuum leak that was not there before.

There is a problem with the Crankshaft sensor. It is not sending signals that are matching those on record. Either the ECM has lost part of the programming for the operating range of the crankshaft sensor or the crankshaft sensor is sending different signals.You would need specialized scans to reprogram or interpete the information and reflash the chip.