Top 20 2010 BMW 3 Series - Page 2 Questions & Answers

you need to get the remote reprogrammed

Yes. But most likely its just a broken fan motor.

try disconnecting air flow sensor or replace it with a known good one

Looking at the oil filter housing unit from the driver's side, the oil pressure switch is nearest the round portion of the housing and the water/oil temperature sensor is to its immediate right.See REALOEM.com. Enter last 7 digits of the VIN, select Main group 11, Engine, select Subgroup 11 30, lubrication system, then select diagram for lubrication system-oil filter.

If it blows the fuse then the compreser is more then likely bad

there is a little micro switch on top of lock barrel which can be dislodged afraid inner door stripdown is required

get a service manual or contact bmw for one

1. Do not start the car or you can cross contaminate the coolant channels. 2. Replace the radiator.

engine management should read the transponder chip in your key and deactivate the alarm the battery in the key is charged while key is in ignition if the key hasn't been used for a while maybe its flat

The switch on the brake pedal arm sometimes wears out. The easiest way to get the old one out is to crush it to bits with a large pair if pliers of a small channel-lock. Then straighten the bracket if it is damaged, and snap in the new switch.
If you have an e46 (1999-2005 3-series) the ground on the tail lights tends to corrode in the plug at the tail light circuit board. BMW has issued a recall, but it is a little late because most folks have already fixed them by adding a second ground wire to each tail light. There is a tab on the ground circuit of the tail light that is a handy place to plug in the new ground wire.

synthetic 10w30

You can find a lot of pictures and videos on how to do basic maintenance on your BMW at places like UTube, Pelican Parts, and Doug's Domain.
You did not mention the year and model of your car, but the general instructions for MOST BMWs sold in the past 20 years are as follows:
Pry off the little plastic caps and unscrew the 10 mm bolts that hold the plastic covers on top of the engine.
Most BMWs have coils over the spark plugs. You have to release the locks on the plugs and unplug the coils from the wiring harness. Then remove the two 10 mm bolts that hold on each coil. Tug hard to pull the coil out of the hole.
If your car has thick wires running to each spark plug (e.g. older 318 model), you don't have coils over the plugs. Grip the rubber boot, not the wire, when pulling the wire free from the spark plug.
Then you need a deep well 5/8" socket that is magnetic or has a rubber gripper inside to hold the spark plugs so you can pull them up out of the hole when they are unscrewed. You will need an extension for the socket to reach down in the hole. A 6" extension is enough.
The spark plugs for a BMW should have nickel plated threads so they don't require antiseize compound, but even with nickel, some folks put a dab of antiseize compound on the threads to make sure the plug does not seize to the aluminum head.
The plugs are made of porcelain (glass) so be careful not to drop them. A plug that has been dropped on a hard surface should be discarded, even if it looks OK.
The most important part of this job is to carefully start the plugs back into their holes holding the socket extension in your hand, not the ratchet. They should thread in easily. DON'T force them! If you cross-thread a plug in its hole, this simple maintenance job can turn into several thousand dollars in repairs.
If you don't have a torque wrench (and I assume you don't), you want to tighten the plug by hand until the copper gasket touches the head. Then take the socket and give it another revolution or so against some resistance as the copper gasket crushes. When the copper gasket is crushed, The resistance to turning will suddenly increase. That is when you stop turning. Remember that the head is soft aluminum. It has to be tight enough to seal tightly and not vibrate loose, but not so tight that it strips the threads out of the hole. ($$$$)
After tightening the plug, you may find the the extension pulls out of the socket easier than the socket pulls free of the plug. You can tape the socket to the extension, or use some other tool to reach down in the hole and fish the socket out if the hole.

Its a warning to check brakes,pads have sensors to warn you early
Get all pads checked
Look in owners manual so you know what all warning lights are

Hi,

The module is located in the spare tire well.

Let me know,if needed further assistance.

Hope i helped you.

Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!

You can get Timing chain for all your car models especially for your BMW 316 Diesel Engine car at
http://www.buyautoparts.com/timing_chain.htm I hope this will be satisfy your needs.

Hi there!

The definiton of your fault code P2610 is ECM/PCM Internal Engine Off Timer Performance

The only info I have relates to this being an engine management ECU (DME) problem. The info doesnt go into specifics but says that the car requires a software update, then further diagnosis if this is unsuccessful. Worst case would be DME failure.

RealOEM.com
That is all I can tell you since you did not mention the model of your car.

This is caused by ultraviolet light from the sun. Ozone in the air does not help either.
There are two types of product that are intended to remove the most oxidized layer from the surface of the plastic. There are mild abrasive polishes that you apply with a rag and a lot of work, and there are kits that have sandpaper disks that you use with a drill.
In your case, those lenses probably came with a plastic film on the outside of the headlight lens. That film is tough. I have removed it with a sandpaper kit and a drill, but it took all afternoon.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/bmw-3-series-e46-2000-present/557521-headlight-cover-film-arghhh.html

Fist get an owners manual. It will have most of the lights ID'd. Also Haynes manuals are pretty good. You can download them online at Haynes.com . The gold standard is the manual by Bently publishers. I found it helps to have both the Haynes and the Bentley manuals.

most likely its the thrust bearing noisy but it could also be the layshaft bearings in the gearbox as well ,check the gearbox oil level and check its ok if ok then its a thrust bearing ,these modern motors with a nylon bearing holder are not very good to say the least ,now if oil level is low in gearbox then before you top level up use a grease gun and remove the nipple thing on the end and then pump a good grease gun full of LM grease into gearbox and then top up with EP90 as this will help seal any leaks and stop a lot of the noise ,you cannot hurt anything by putting the grease in the gearbox i do it lot to stop a leaky gearbox from leaking as the grease gets hot and sinks to the bottom and solidifies stopping a lot of the leaks from gear linkages and around the drive shafts although this is a rear wheel drive vehicle so that is less of a problem