20 Most Recent 2010 BMW 3 Series - Page 11 Questions & Answers

i do not know but try these websites www.autozone.com and www.alldatadiy.com if all fails stop by your local dealer and in the part department they will print you off a diagram

Hi Retze

From your report on the symptoms of your problem, it definitely points to an electrical problem, which is aggravated by cold and damp.

The smell of fuel in your oil, points directly to a misfire and non combustion on one, or more cylinders, and the subsequent unburnt fuel washing down the bores and into the fuel, thus breaking down the viscosity of your oil, and going to give you premature , and excessive wear on your engine before too long, if not already.

As you say loosing oil, which I expect is going out the exhaust, due to ring or piston wear.
This problem must be cured quickly !

I would firstly suggest, all the spark plugs are removed, and inspected very closely for contamination signs, from oil or fuel.

This will hopefully give you a clue, as to the problem cylinder/s.

Also a dry and a wet ie:- ( injection of some oil in the cylinder ) compression test should be carried out, on cold engine.
This will tell you if your valves, pistons and rings, head gasket,etc are all serviceable, from the pressure readings.


A master guage should also be connected, and your oil pressure checked to give your oil pump, and lubrication system, to hopefully give it too a clean bill of heath.

Now as to my gut feelings as to where your problems may lie ?

I too suspect the spark plug coils, as they are problematic with BMW, as they are also, with my specialist subject, Jaguars.

They are sometimes difficult to fault, as the problem can be intermittent.
And usually the clear sign is the spark plug condition on removal, which is the give away !

I am also very concerned as to how long ago you changed your engine oil & filter, as if you can smell the fuel in your oil, it must be thinned down considerably, and also affecting your hydraulic valve lifters.
Mind you if worn or faulty, you can usually hear the problem.

Your first line of attack is remove the spark plugs, and inspect those plugs !

Let me know what you find, and give me your feedback as to your thoughts on my comments.

Good Luck !

Remember to give me a rating if you think I have been of assistance, thanks !

John.

usually noise complaint can be pretty tricky to repair. especially if its intermittent. since you say it only when its cold my first guess would have to be a wheel bearing. some other things you can check is how the tires are wearing. when you rub your hand along the tread is it smooth or does the tread catch your hand. if your tires aren't wearing smooth noise complaints can be heard while slightly turning, braking, or even accelerating.also if its a wheel bearing you can lift the vehicle up in the rear (turn off your dsc) and run the rear tires up to speed. usually you can hear a loud wheel bearing. also you can drive the vehicle and swerve back and forth and see if the nosie changes. depending on which side of the vehicle suspension is being loaded

hi, check the rubber hose between the air box and the inlet manifold, it may be cracked causing it to draw in hot air from the engine bay! temp fix it by taping it up with elec. tape, otherwise you;ll have to replace it, hope this helps, steg

Check the timing

To accurately check oil pressure, you need a mechanical pressure gauge and feed line. To use, remove the factory pressure sending unit and attach gauge.
Likely if the engine is already knocking, the problem is already there and the oil pressure light is telling you that (knock is either rod bearing, main bearing or lifter) Oil pumps do not generally fail. the pump gets oil before any other component is the last to not get oil. Pressure loss at a worn bearing causes pressure drop that turns on light (unless you don't have sufficient oil in the pan.)

U can keep driving, just make sure the oil always shows on the dipstick when u check it, if not then u can cause the engine to just freeze up from lack of lubrication.

This is link for alternator
I would be tke same as for 318i and 325i
http://www.autozone.com/N,15700086//shopping/partTypeResultSet.htm
http://www.autozone.com/N,15700086//shopping/partTypeResultSet.htm
Battery you can use bigger size for instance at sears
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_02833348000P?vName=Automotive&cName=Batteries+%26+Chargers&sName=Automotive+Batteries&sLevel=3
Good Luck

Question edited for clarity and spelling. https://www.google.com/search?q=bmw+e36+convertible+roof+not+working ..

If you have a multimeter remove and test the fuses for continuity (OHMS) as fuses can look OK but they have blown. If your replacing fuses ONLY replace the with one of the Same colour and Amp rating.

Yes, Bimmerfest Forums are a great resource. https://www.google.com/search?q=BMW+325ci+vacuum+hose+diagram ..

Question edited for clarity. changed your Poly Vinyl Chloride (PVC) into Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV), and added some punctuation to make real sentences. Your car is run by computers, the computers have diagnostics and will tell you what's wrong. You can't guess faults like you have. A Professional Grade Scan Tool computer can diagnose all the computers, modules, sensors and systems in about 40 minutes. It can even record what happens and what goes wrong as you are driving! https://www.google.com/search?q=mobile+auto+electrician+near+me ..

http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=power+window+switch+wireing+for+a+BMW+x3+2004&FORM=HDRSC3

https://cararac.com/blog/bmw-no-crank-no-start-problems-and-solutions.html This will give you a few ideas of what to look for. Make sure you are getting battery voltage to the fuse box.

To turn off HDC on a BMW, all you have to do is press the HDC button located on the center console. The button will have an image of a vehicle going downhill with a speedometer above it, and you'll know it's off if there are no lights illuminated above it. If you ever want to turn the system on again, just press the button again.

Since you fixed the fault by scan advice and was ok and on testdrive another limp mode came up, just check again with your scan to see what is the possible cause for it. Probably the crank sensor.

6 years different and a different series? If only life was that easy! Some BMW have a mechanical pump driven by the serpentine belt, and some have an totally electric powered pump. Just buy one for the model you have. https://www.google.com/search?q=2012+BMW+535i+water+pump or https://www.google.com/search?q=2006+BMW+330i+water+pump Rock Auto are a good suppliers, have images and different makers and 'qualities'. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/bmw,2006,330i,3.0l+l6,1431850,cooling+system,water+pump,2208 ..