Neither was the problem on a 2007 vehicle,still sort of new
You do need to change plugs every 3 years
I would change the Front Oxygen Sensors, if you have 100,000
miles on them---still not the misfire issue
The misfire is the ignition control module, if that is what you have,
since you mentioned plug wires,some motors have individual
ignition coils & they fail a lot on a ford
Those codes are of no use, their random misfires & misfire
on first 1,000 rpm when starting the motor
Have to diagnose each cylinder & any module issue
Whom ever did your work failed to do anything but replace
parts,no road test,no scanner data checking or code diagnoses
Don't go to the chain store or auto parts shops
Go to an old time local shop
THe drive belt tensioner and the crankshaft pulley are under the power steering pump. also, the timing cover and timing chains/components on the inside of the engine.
Do you know how to test automotive electrical circuits using a DMM - digital multi-meter ?
Principles of Operation
The headlamp switch is supplied power at all times from the smart junction box (SJB). When the headlamps switch is placed in the headlamps ON position, power is routed to the multifunction switch. Depending on the position of the multifunction switch, power is routed through one of two circuits to the SJB. If the multifunction switch is in the high beam position, power is routed through SJB fuse 12 (15A) and then on to the high beam headlamps. If the multifunction switch is in the low beam position, power is routed through SJB fuses 11 (10A) and 15 (10A) to the LH and RH headlamps, respectively. Power to the multifunction switch is available at all times for the flash-to-pass feature.
Is there B+ voltage at fuse's # 11 & 15 with headlamps on an the multifunction switch is in the low beam position ? If not check for B+ voltage at the multifunction switch . Free wiring diagrams here
http://www.bbbind.com/free-tsb Enter your vehicle info. year , make , model an engine . Under system click on lighting then under subsystem click headlamps . Click the search button then the blue link .
Basic Electricity for Service Techs Ohm law Current Flow Opens ShortsElectric Testing Techniques You Need to Know
1. stabilizer link to strut nut 6 - 12 ft.-lbs;
2. stabilizer link to stabilizer bar nut 6 - 12 ft.-lbs;
3. stabilizer bar U clam bolt to body 20 -30 ft.-lbs.
I have same problem, 04 Tarus, Abs light, brake light, fuel cap light, oil pressure light, and one other, checked oil pressure with manual gauge and its good, has been doing this since it was new in 04, also radio has a mind of its own turns up and down on its own when warning lights are on.
remove belt make sure you have the routing diagram for the belt. Take old tensioner off install new one reinstall belt ,tensioner will need to have tension taken off with wrench take tension off install belt let the tensioner go easily and slowly.
You can't - when the PATS (passive anti-theft system) is armed the engine management system (and maybe other stuff) is switched off.
The system is embedded into and integral with the vehicle electronics and it is practically impossible to defeat it or bypass it. Only sending the correct code will switch on the electronics and allow the engine to start - the code is stored in the vehicle memory and in a transponder embedded either in the ignition key or plip.
You need two people...one in the drivers seat and one working the wrench on each brake caliper....Make sure fluid is full. Start with the back passenger wheel and have them pump brakes up and hold it....Use a wrench and loosen bleeder on caliper. Pedal will go to the floor. Close it and have them pump it up again. Have them hold it again then do this to each wheel two to three times.....Back passenger first, then back drivers, front passengers, then front drivers....Doing this forces the air out of the lines
ok so when you press a separate button for the others do you feel a click and the button stays in till you press it again and it comes out but when your driver button is pushed in it just come out and doesn't stay in the switch is broken inside and the lock isn't engaging inside holding the button in /or is it that the switch stays illuminated showing its on but no heat from the seat element if that's the case you have to get under the seat cover to the element and possible clean the plug and connector corrosion can get in there from moisture or that element has failed ok
if yours is an automatic it might be the MAF sensor, if you unplug the MAF sensor and it drives again i would check the MAF sensor to see if its still working as it could be coated with muck from a damaged air filter or if you have change the air filter it could of let muck onto the sensor, when changing a dirty air filter its best to clean the MAF sensor with MAF sensor cleaner at the same time.
Hey Dave that tire pump might have burned the lighter inside contact look into the lighter the center is the positive and it should be clean look ing you can use a pencil eraser to clean it off if you use anything else you must disconnect the battery also vacuum it out after the eraser to get the rubber and abrasives in the eraser you could use light sand paper to also its possible that the connections on the other side got hot and became loose thoroughly inspect it also are you using a continuity tester/volt meter to check the fuses I believe it's #29 for the lighter it's a 20 amp fuse do you also have a PowerPoint socket in your car the lighter should work there and other things with an adapter for the lighter a lot of times on an older car when you plug in something that makes it get hot but doesn't blow the fuse it fries the inside
