20 Most Recent
2007 Ford F-150 - Page 7 Questions & Answers
My 03 f150 fx4 won't move forward or reverse. Shifter cycles through gears but no movement
Ok there's a few things here ###1 check fluid level ###2 check the shifter cable to see if it broke by getting under the truck have an assistant use the shifter with there foot on the brake wheels blocked engine off and observe if the cable is moving on the transmission bracket and the shifting pawl coming out of the inside is also moving if not grab the cable from the other side and pull on it if it starts to come through its broken if this is not the case and you see the cable and pawl moving on the side of the transmission then we have an internal problem here this could be a blown pressure solenoid / cracked circuit board if you were bouncing around and caught a big rock or something denting the pan this is very possible or a complete shift pack failure or your torque convertor clutch switch or convertor itself has failed so if there was no dents in the pan fluid is good and cable is good moving take off the cable from the linkage arm and try to manually shift it into gear if the pawl is loose with no clicks and resistance when you move it the spring inside has broken that holds it in place watch this video of curt from monster transmissions on you tube okay I tried to tell you as much as I could type in 4r70w shifter pawl and you will see monster transmission come up as well as others but watch curts video first he is very into detail and will guide you through and by the way he likes to call the toothed shifter pawl a rooster tail we are talking about the same thing ok and if your wondering where your info is coming from I'm a taxi mechanic in nyc.with 50 years experience in all phases of the automobile ok good luck stephen
I have a 2007 f-150 2wd with 4 speed auto trans. with approx. 175000 miles. are there any problems with overdrive band breaking
Transmissions usually last in the 250,000+ area depending on how you drive and maintenance intervals and if you are constantly pulling/weighing it down with heavy loads that being said now answer those questions okay next/// is it just overdrive and no other problems exist ? // there are shift pack switches inside the transmission and there's a switch on/off on your gear shift lever (button) I'm assuming you know this put try pressing the button in when driving it's possible that the overdrive bulb blew out and you don't know that your switch was deactivated or that switch went bad inside the gear shift lever so please check this and there's a fuse for it also next if all check out its possible that the overdrive switch in that pack inside the transmission has failed and the whole pack needs to be replaced but I don't think so because that switch has 2 sides/// 1-2 gear - 3-4 gear and your making it to 3rd so it's working but it could be ? But I think the problem is in that lever switch either it's deactivated or it just went or the wire from it that plugs into the connection under or on the column has broken but please check everything first before you start $$$$$$$ chasing the wrong thing like I said the bulb could be burned out and you don't know it's flashing OD OFF and understand that I don't know how much you actually know about these things and I have to tell you all of it because obviously I'm not there to check myself and also ask you questions ok if you don't have the manual go to ford owners.Com and download the full version of the manual for free then go to roadside emergencies and your fuse box diagrams and values are there and the relays locations ok there are also pressure solenoids to but I'm sure that there working also go to rockauto.Com and look up your vehicle and then go to automatic transmission and you will see all good luck stephen
97 f150 new rear brake/lines wheel cyllinder brake bleed out fine right side locks up where left does little both sides adj up
Confusing post but here goes first of all are the shoes (a) facing the right way that the longer lining is in the front? And (b) did you install the retaining springs in the right place (holes in the brake shoe)and the right direction) next you say new lines were put in so ,did you use a tubing bender to shape them along the way you routed them and at each wheel cylinder are you sure you didn't make any sharp bends like 90* and that all fittings are not leaking next when you adjust the shoes extended to just barely get the drums on then further adjust them so when you turn the wheels there's a drag on them /a little effort to spin the drum with the tires on/// are you sure you have the adjuster levers facing the correct way and last of all are you following the bleeding sequence that is needed to get air out of the lines and also did not press on the brake pedal with no fluid in the master cylinder or with the bleeder valves open suckling back in air ? The bleeding sequence for all motor vehicles cars/ trucks is (and I don't know if your in the U.S.A. if you are then follow this ) the first wheel is the farthest from the master cylinder / RIGHT REAR/ LEFT REAR /RIGHT FRONT /LEFT FRONT YOU MUST BLEED UP ONE WHEEL AT A TIME UNTIL IT SHOWS NO AIR AND ALL FLUID COMING OUT AND WITH NEW LINES INSTALLED YOUR GOING TO GO THROUGH A LOT OF FLUID 2 BIG BOTTLES NEEDED USING 1 1/2- 13/4 OF IT IF NOT ALL OF IT AND MORE POSSIBLY // YOU MUST CHECK EACH LINE FOR LEAKS ESPECIALLY THE T BLOCK ON THE REAR END AND THE RUBBER HOSE ATTACHED TO IT AND EACH LINE AND RUBBER HOSE ON THE FRONT CALIPERS TO FRAME LINE BLOCKS ON THE SUBFRAME AND THAT YOUR HELPER IS KEEPING THE PEDAL DOWN AFTER PUMPING THE BRAKES WITH THE VALVES CLOSED AND HOLDS IT TO THE FLOOR UNTIL THE BLEEDER VALVES ARE CLOSED AGAIN AFTER OPENING THEM TO LET FLUID AND AIR OUT IF ALL THAT I MENTIONED HERE WAS DONE CORRECTLY THERE SHOULD BE NO PROBLEMS BUT IF THE REARS ARE LETTING FLUID OUT OR THE VALVES THE PROPORTIONAL VALVE IS WORKING FOR THEM BECAUSE ONLY 1 LINE COMES DOWN THE FRAME USUALLY TO FEED THE REAR T BLOCK FITTING THEN LINES COME OUT TO EACH WHEEL ///IF FOR SOME REASON YOU DON'T HAVE ONE //NO ENGINE SIZE GIVEN 4.2V 6 ? 4.6V8 ROMEO/WINDSOR 5.4V8 /NO DRIVE TYPE GIVEN (2WD OR 4WD) AND YOU JUST HAVE LINES RUNNING FROM THE MASTER CYLINDER TO FITTINGS FOR FRONT AND REAR THERE'S EITHER A LEAKING FITTING AN OVER BENT LINE (TO SHARP CREASING THE LINE) OR SHOES IN WRONG DIRECTION LONGER LINING IN THE BACK INSTEAD OF THE FRONT ( LOCKING UP WHEEL)HARDWARE NOT INSTALLED CORRECTLY OR OR YOU HAVE BLOWN THE MASTER CYLINDER SECONDARY SEALS FOR THE REAR BRAKES THE FRONT BRAKES STOP THE VEHICLE THE REAR BRAKES ASSIST THEM BY KEEP THE VEHICLE STRAIGHT IN LINE OTHERWISE THE TAIL WOULD TRY TO SWING AROUND OK THAT'S ALL I CAN TELL YOU GOOD LUCK STEPHEN
Front suspension torque specs for 2001 f150 4x4
Get a chiltons book for exact specs but usually you can tighten the nuts all the way till snug then go to the next slot on the nut for the cotter pin on regular nuts no slot do it till tight then an 1/8of a turn more and your done
1993ford f150 fuel pump no fire
93 F150 is old school, which means it has a cap and a rotor. You have a traditional oil, and spark plug wires. I would not go to the fuel pump until I verify I have a really solid spark
2001fordf150 theftlight blinking rapidly won't crank only have one key
First of all the ignition key that you have for the truck has a chip in it. You could take it to key place to see if it has the chip in it because if it doesn't it won't start then if you still having problems ,you will have to take it to the shop and they will have to reset your computer
Where is the ac compressor fuse on a 1999 F 150
Go to Ford owners.com and download the owners manual and go to roadside emergencies and your fuse box and power distribution box diagrams are there with the fuse and relay locations and values
I have a 93 Ford F-150 dual tank v8 5.8liter and I cannot get this truck to start it's driving me crazy I checked the inertia switch it was like in limbo and I pushed it down and no I wasn't in a
Ok Mona I think I understand a little bit better ok no accident got it I want you to go to your power distribution box under the hood and clean the cable connections and make sure they are very tight also the fuse blades do the battery terminals and make sure they are clean and tight use alcohol and mild steel wool or the back pad of a sponge DO NOT USE A WIRE BRUSH it will rip the lead terminals to shreds and cause the not to fit tight if after this persists you will have to unbolt the distribution box and check those individual wires for corrosion or broken connections all the positive + power distribution comes through that box and fuses this is where I think your problem is your pumps get energized through those fuses also the check engine light should always come on and then shut itself off if there's no trouble codes these dash lights are part of the computer self test of the sensors including the abs system //// and I understand that you have power to crank the engine when you turn the key but if there's corrosion on the power distribution box cable the electrical path is being broken because the voltage can not pass through to the components controlled by the box pay a lot of attention to this area including the bolt on tab that is the strip for the box look for a break in that strip the intermittent check engine dash light is sending me in this direction please be patient I know this is a pain but I'm not there and my 50+years as a taxi mechanic in nyc. and dealing with this problem is where your help is coming from so look at all power distribution components in the box and the box itself relays fuses wires ok good luck again Stephen and of course post back if needed ok
Not finding what you are looking for?