2013 Dodge Avenger - Page 9 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

It could be that one of the flasher module for the turn signals is bad. There should be 2 flasher modules: one for turn signals, and one for four way flashers. Check you vehicles manual for a location on the flasher modules, or Google a query like "Location of turn signal flasher module on a *Year Make Model*". After you locate them, it should be as simple as going to an auto parts store and asking them for a replacement module. If that doesn't work, I could be the switch in the dashboard, or a more complex wiring problem. Make sure you check all of your fuses too. I would say that if you cant fix it by replacing the flasher module, you should take it to a mechanic because it is very easy to destroy wiring in your car.

With that new a car, I'd have it back to the dealer and REFUSE to take it home until repaired properly. I'd also call Chrysler zone office (in your owners manual) and file a report with them. If they can't fix it in 4 attempts your eligible for a new car under US "lemon laws". Sounds like dealer is incompetent and is just throwing parts at it instead of diagnosing & repairing correctly. It's dealer like that, that gives other GOOD dealers a bad name.

If the battery is dead,it is a dangerous practice
to jump start it,not recommended I should say

If you can charge it, or take it out and replace it, that
is your best bet.

Someone on your street will have a charger
you can use

They are located on the back firewall. This is the back of the engine compartment. They are toward the right. They are beside the oil resovoir. They are in the black box. They are marked on the side of the relay. It might be the middle one but I am not for sure if they are the same as the 05. It should say asd on the side,

Yes it matters. The bleed valve must piont straight up. If it is not in the correct position, the cooling system will get an air pocket and cause overheating. (See diagram)

Remove the stut assy from the car.

Then compress the spring,not while
in the vehicle

try banging on the door...if it doesnt work u might have to place the window motor

there

If you are getting fuel and spark..... it has to be a timing issue.
How many Km's are on this engine?
I had a timing chain jump on me before and lots of spark and engine turned over fine but would not start. Turns out it had smacked half my valves and bent them.

The block bolted to the frame is the solid state fan relay. It is very common for them to go bad. when they do they either keep the fans on as in your case or the don't let the fans work at all. They are available form your local auto parts store. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

if you are talking about the engine oil then it should always go in the valve cover after taking the Cap off. Look at the picture bellow for an example. Good luck

Or your fuel pump could be intermittently working

Hi, this is normal operation of the system. The defroster uses the A/C to remove moisture from the air. Please let me know if you have more questions, and thanks for using FixYa.

I think if you bough the car from a dealer or certified used car then the warranty should cover it for certain miles that will already be on the purchasing Papers. If you just bought the car from somebody and you are the second owner the i think the warranty is no longer available due to title change and the mileage is only at 50.000 miles. Good luck

A lot of people will tell you to hook the good car with the negative on a bolt for ground, I have never had luck with that, never had luck with hooking either car to a bolt, always went right to the battery, hot to hot, neg to neg, If there is no connection, wiggle the cables while turning the key, It should catch. Make sure the donor car is running or you will have 2 dead batteries. Check the water in the dead battery, I have seen them come back to life with just water added. Hope this helps.

Hello Devon.

I would like to be able to tell you for sure whether you can do it or not, but there are backyard guys that have varying skills.
I'll post a portion of the steps it takes to do the job. Not an easy one I'm afraid, several special tools and previous experience doing timing belts would be a good idea.
Let me know if you want more info after checking this out.

Thank you for using FixYa.

KL


Pre-removal Operation

• Reserve Tank Removal
• Generator Bracket Removal
• Center Front Under Cover Removal
• Jack up the engine and transaxle assembly until there in no weight on the insulators.

Post-installation Operation

• Center Front Under Cover Installation
• Generator Bracket Installation
• Reserve Tank Installation
• Drive Belt Tension Adjustment

REMOVAL SERVICE POINTS


Crankshaft Pulley Removal
Use the special tools to remove the crankshaft pulley from the crankshaft
Caution Use only the specified special tools, or the pulley damper could be damaged.




Engine Support Bracket Removal
Spraying lubricant, slowly remove the bolt (reamer bolt) indicated by the arrow.
Caution Keep in mind that the reamer bolt is sometimes heat seized on the engine support bracket.
Power Steering Oil Pump And Bracket Assembly Removal
Do not disconnect hoses to remove the power steering oil pump and bracket assembly
NOTE Use wire or similar material to suspend the removed oil pump. Check that nothing around it will be damaged during removal/ installation of the timing belt.
Timing Belt Removal


(1) Use the special tool MD998769 to align the timing marks. (2) Chalk an arrow indicating the direction of rotation on the back of the timing belt for further reuse. (3) Loosen the center bolt on the tensioner pulley to remove the timing belt
Caution
Water or oil on the belt shorten its life drastically, so the removed timing belt, sprocket and tensioner must be free from oil and water. These parts should not be washed. Replace parts if seriously contaminated.
If there is oil or water on each part, check the front case oil seals, camshaft oil seal and water pump for leaks. INSTALLATION SERVICE POINTS


(1) Use a press or vise to compress the push rod of the auto tensioner as slowly as possible. Then align pin hole A of the push rod with pin hole B of the tensioner cylinder.
Caution

1. Place the auto tensioner at a right angle to the pressing surface of the press or vise.
2. Push in the rod slowly to prevent the push rod from being damaged.

(2) Insert setting pin or wire with a diameter of 1.4 mm (0.06 inch) into the aligned pin holes.
NOTE The wire should be as stiff as possible (such as piano wire, etc.), and should be bent into the shape of an "L". (3) Install the auto tensioner to engine.
Caution Leave the setting pin or wire installed in the auto tensioner.
Timing Belt Installation

(1) Align the timing marks of each sprocket.
NOTE At this time, No. 1 cylinder should be at top dead center, on compression stroke. (2) Use bulldog clips to fix the timing belt in the following procedure to prevent the belt from slacking.

1. Crankshaft sprocket
2. Idler pulley
3. Front bank side camshaft sprocket
4. Water pump pulley
5. Rear bank side camshaft sprocket
6. Tensioner pulley

Caution Since the camshaft can turn by the reaction of the valve springs be careful not to get your fingers caught between the sprocket and timing belt.
(3) Apply force counterclockwise to the camshaft sprocket on the rear side. When the tight side of the belt is taut, check that the timing marks are all aligned. (4) Gently raise the tensioner pulley as shown by the arrow, so that the belt does not sag, and temporarily tighter the center bolt.
Timing Belt Tension Adjustment
(1) Turn the crankshaft a 1/4 turn counterclockwise, and then turn it clockwise to the position where the timing marks are aligned. (2) Loosen the center bolt of the tensioner pulley. Use the special tool and a torque wrench to apply tension to the timing belt as shown in the illustration. Then tighten center bolt to the specified torque.
Caution When tightening the bolt, make sure that the tensioner pulley shaft doesn't rotate with the bolt. Specified torque: 4.4 Nm (3.3 ft. lbs.) [tensional torque]


(3) Pull out the auto tensioner setting pin or wire. At this time, check that the setting pin or wire can be pulled out easily. Turn the crankshaft clockwise 2 turns and hold it for 5 minutes or more. Then check again that the auto tensioner setting pin or wire can be pulled or inserted easily.

NOTE Even if the setting pin or wire cannot be easily inserted, it is satisfactory if the auto tensioner rod projection is within the standard value. Standard value (A): 3.8 - 4.5 mm (0.149 - 0.177 inch)

If it is not within the standard value, repeat the operations in steps 1. to 3.


(4) Check again that each of the sprocket timing marks is aligned.

It is usually located under the hood on the frame of the vehicle on a sticker.

two things 1. don't start the engine but turn the key till the dash board lights up wait to see if the computer recognizes that error was fix to specs. 2. if not got to a mechanic for a obd reading and reset it.

the horn is in front of the drive side wheels behind the bumper i hope this helps

Is it time for a fuel filter replacement? change them every two years, Check fuel pressure on the fuel rail for fuel pressure it should be about 40 to 60 lbs